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  1. A little video of what it is like..... sometimes, ringing the bell requires a very steady stance, eye and breathing control.
  2. Uttoxeter Bell Target Club are having an OPEN SHOOT. Sunday 14th April. There will be some big, fancy Easter Eggs as prizes as we have secured some sponsorship! VENUE: Bradley House Club, Uttoxeter. ST14 7HA Format will be Bell target Shooting. Rifles and pellets will be provided. Nice rifles too! Highest score of the day for: Men (over 16) Ladies prize Junior prize (14-16) Younger juniors are welcome to attend, but must remain accompanied AT ALL TIMES by a parent or guardian. Entry is £5 on the day. Refreshments and a raffle will be available too. If you haven't shot bell target, you will scoff, until you have tried it. Yes it is shot indoors at 6 yards, with open sights, stood with no support at all. The target is small to compensate for the close range and is the equivalent of shooting at a 6" target at 100 yards. It seems easy until you try it. Hope to see you there.
  3. I have been using .20 since 1994. I have a break barrel Theoben. It is a hybrid of the Fenman (stock) and Taunus (barrel and action - although the action is common across the entire range). The Taunus was offered with a dedicated sporter stock, I wanted the ambidextrous stock of the Fenman so I can shoot off both shoulders. The longer barrel of the Taunus gives a smoother shot cycle with the smaller pellet. I still have the rifle and use it fairly frequently, although my .20 Rapid, also a 1994 purchase, is my main tool. There are plenty of detractors of the 5mm calibre and they are always vociferous, many of them have little experience of the calibre and the limited number of pellets is an oft quoted drawback - or is it? I think the pellets offered in .20 are plenty varied enough and it is a benefit not to have to trawl through 20 different types to find the one or two your rifle shoots the best. Especially if you then start to take head size variations into account. JSB Exact H&N FTT Bisley Pest Control HW FT (JSBs rebranded) Crossman Premier Webleypell .20 (same as Crossman Magnum with a yellow label) How many more do you need? There are others, but to be honest why bother.
  4. Coming from south, got traffic lights at the bottom, before you get to the river/canal.
  5. For those who spend £20,000 on a watch, just to kill a couple of hours because their flight is delayed...... or while their Gulf Stream is turned around.
  6. It isn't the dry in your garage, not by engine standards - our relative humidity in this country is over 60% on average. A little less on very cold days. You think your garage is 'dry', but the air in it still contains moisture and it condenses out as the engine cools, so as soon as you turn the engine off (5 years ago) the moisture was already present and the hot air surrounding and within the engine held more moisture than the cooler air around it. Warm air can hold more water vapour than cold air. I would drop the old oil straight off - cold. It has already drained into the sump pan, so you only need to get it to run out of the hole in the bottom. Refill and use that as sacrificial oil. Fire her up with the plugs out first. Just have a fresh battery and spin her over in short bursts, so you don't overheat the starter motor. Plugs out makes it easier to spin the motor with no load on it, to get the oil pump running and recharge all the galleries with oil, even the old oil is better than no oil. Then put the plugs back in and refuel (fresh fuel), just get her warm, a few minutes at 1200rpm should be enough. Don't blip the throttle, it won't be good for an engine that has been standing idle for long enough for all the oil to drain out of the bearing surfaces....let her idle fast enough to put the charging light out, certainly less than 1500rpm. If you take her up the road be awre that the brake pads might shed their lining... so be careful I lost the linings out of my front pads once, going down the steep hill into Bath.... engine braking and the rear drum saved me! The pads just disintegrated. The tyres might also have gone hard, or even started to crack - so don't go hooning up the road. Go very steady, you are only loosening things up. Don't be surprised if the fork seals also let go - an easy and cheap fix. I would change the fork oil too (SAE10 or hydraulic clutch fluid/autobox fluid). The only flush it needs is to use some standard 10-40, probably needs API grade SF or SG at a guess. Silkolene, Putoline, Motul, Rock 10-40 will be fine. You don't want to use a car type oil - wet clutch doesn't like the additives used in seperate gearbox engines! Beemers and Guzzis you can use car oil because they have seperate gearboxes with their own oil - UJMs use the same oil for gearbox, clutch and engine. Get her HOT on the new oil. Really hot, proper running hot. Then drop the oil and change the filter this time round. Don't forget the air cleaner - K&Ns? get some K&N oil and give them a proper clean and reoil. Check the carb inlet rubbers - they are also likely to have gone hard and are prone to splitting after long periods of layup. What is the chain like? While the engine is warming up, spray some chain lube on - main stand on a plank of wood (1/2" plank) to increase height, rear wheel off the deck (weight front or prop rear? Does she sit on front of rear when on main stand?) If she sits on the front wheel on the main stand all good. Just check the clearance under the rear tyre. Cable tie or just tie the front brake on - just in case! Tie lever to handgrip. Let her idle in bottom gear... rear wheel rotates and you can spray the lube on the INSIDE of the chain where it meets the sprocket on the lower run. The chain will carry the lube into the chain links. ENJOY!
  7. It is a waste of time trying to call a squirrel you have spooked. It is in flight mode and will not stop to converse with anyone! It is a waste of time trying to call when the other squirrels are not calling. Use your call when you hear other squirrels calling. Get into position where you have good cover and a decent arc of fire. NOT under the tree you expect them to come into..... they will be on boughs that provide them cover from below. Better to have a shot across to them if possible, or catch them in the smaller branches.
  8. Try getting there 30 minutes before dawn. get yourself snugged in, very quietly and with NO light or torch. You don't need it, you know where your hide is! Night vision in your eyes is all you need, feel with your feet to get in position as quietly as possible. Get settled and just wait. As it starts to get light, just the first vestiges of dawn will see the crows wake up and head off. Then the squirrels will be about within a few minutes of the sun showing. I have had them running about in the pre-dawn.
  9. The reason I say to avoid shooting ON the feeder is so they don't actually associate it with danger - you have a huge food reserve and squirrels coming from a long way. It is 8 miles to my wood for me, and I can't afford that amount of peanuts - the fuel to get there and back limits how often I can go. So mine do run out, but they soon know when they have been topped up again. I buy 2kgs at a time, when I can. Hence why I call and stalk, more than sit over a feeder. If I had someone paying for my peanuts, I would use the feeders more.
  10. I am still trying to work out how to post on this forum.... You will do better to cover your hands and face, but it is a pain when trying to take pictures with the self timer! The dog is a great help. He is my early warning system, and retrieves the fallen. I carry everything I need either in the stock pouch/comb raiser or the rucksack (tools for hide pruning and training. I have several natural hides to 'maintain' around the woods). Rucksack is also useful for carrying out the bag and a flask and something to eat. Notice, all you really need is a small bit of cover but a solid background behind you (avoids silhouette). SLOW movement too, that includes lifting the rifle. Call little and often - if you hear other squirrels barking, you know calling will work, even if it just gets them running through the branches to see what the fuss is about. That is all it is for, to get them to show themselves. I have had squirrels creep in and sit 20 feet away, tail curled over their head, just staring at me, wondering what the hell is going on. Then I suddenly see them, and provided you keep movement slow and DO NOT STARE AT THEM, drop your eyes, get in position then you will have time for the shot. Squirrel calling... the rhythm is a sort of bap, bap, bap, braaaaap - pause, bap, bap, bap, braaaap..... bap, bap. Pause, Bap, bap. Pause. Bap, bap. Pause, Bap, bap, bap, braaaaap. If you get a reply, copy the sequence that comes back to you. Don't over call. If you get no response in about 5 minutes, LEAVE IT. Sit absolutely still and keep your eyes peeled... they wil probably be out to see where the intruder is off to next.
  11. I have been asked to respond to this. I will try to put up some useful information on the method. There are times when a call works, and times it doesn't. I take mine with me on every trip. If you are shooting on an intercept point to a feeder (don't shoot ON the feeder!), either on the way to or from the feed station, then there is no need to educate the local squirrels about YOUR call - each call is different, and give the same call to two different people you will get two different calls out of it, either in intensity, or pitch, or rhythm. YOU need to practise with YOUR call, no different to crow calls or fox calls, the local inhabitants will get to know YOUR call and if you miss, associate it with danger. Do squirrel calls work? MOST DEFINITELY. But they are not intended to have squirrels running to your feet like a fox call does. More like a crow call, they work by getting rival squirrels to show themselves - because you are basically imitating a newcomer on the patch, and the locals will want to know who the intruder is. Best times are early spring and autumn. Summer is a waste of time squirrelling, you can tell where they are, but you can't see to shoot due to the leaf cover. The most productive time for me is as soon as the leaves have fallen enough to give clear sight through branches, same as roosting pigeons - Mid October some years, possibly mid November in milder autumns/winters. TIP - use your local park to practise! You can't shoot there, but you can call and see what effect it has on the squirrels. If you have them running for cover, then you are making a noise like a Godzilla squirrel. You need to tone it down - gentle barks are better than loud ones. You are not trying to get squirrels to run 200 yards, you are trying to coax out ones that are within 50 yards, they have very good hearing and eyesight - get in the shadows AND KEEP STILL. I take people and they tell me there are keeping still but to me they are like a semaphor flagman, Head moving, hands moving.... MOVEMENT is the first thing the eye catches. Think about it, you are sat in your hide, or the front room looking out, and somethig flits by. You see the flit, then you focus on it and identify it. It was the movement that alerted you. MOVEMENT, SOUND, SILHOUETTE and SHINE are the worst giveaways in the woods. Scent less so, but you do need to be aware of it and use the wind accordingly. The squirrels are way above you, so scent doesn't get up there as much as it does when stalking ground game. I like to get settled in against a tree in the shade, you don't need a hide, just use natural cover well. Go the SHADE side of a tree, avoid walking through sunny clearings - you might as well shout your presence.
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