Windswept

I've been trying to sort something similar out with the NFU for years. There does seem to be a reason to limit the carriage of certain items but I don't think the insurance people understand what they are doing. To answer the OP, I don't know what policy you have but looking at the policy booklet online does not show any exclusions for cartridges or explosives so I would go back to them and ask them to point out where the exclusion is documented. NFU used to exclude more than 2,000 bullets/cartridges unless you asked to carry more. Now they've changed the wording yet again it it does not make sense. Their current policy now states "WE will not pay for any claim if YOUR CAR or TRAILER is being used for the transportation of high explosives such as nitro-glycerine, dynamite or other similar explosive. This does not apply to the carriage of live shotgun cartridges for FIELD SPORT ACTIVITIES". As far as I understand cartridges, bullets and reloading powders can be described as explosive but not high explosive so I can carry them. Which makes the reference to 'live shotgun cartridges' pointless.

Is there much difference these days? Aren't most primers, powder, wads, shot and cases made abroad even if the cartridge is assembled in the UK?

This is the link to Clay and Game: https://www.claygame.co.uk/12ga-fibre-shot-cups-pd82 It may be worth emailing / phoning them to ask, I've found them helpful. Edit to add, just re-read your original post and you mention 20g, the cups are only listed for 12g but would still be worth calling them to ask.

I've probably only shot a 1000 or so .410 cartridges, mostly Eley 2 1/2s but a few hundred Lyalvale 3" subsonics and a few Lyalvale 2"s in a few different .410s and never had any melting like the pic at all.

Have had less damaged cartridges when I've shot 3" carts in a 2 1/2 chamber. The damage was neater than those, what gun were they fired in? As mentioned I'd contact Lyalvale, they've been helpful when I've asked them questions in the past.

I've done this. The only problem is when you have to clear it out to put another gun in... On a serious note, take care of the weight if it's going in the attic and you're tempted to fill it.

I think aberisle want to load his own. There's quite a bit of data on the Hodgdon site for H110 powder: https://hodgdon.com/h110/

It's interesting to hear the other side of things. I agree people do dump stuff next to the recycling containers down here but that's either people on holiday (there's no general refuse bins nearby in the supermarkets) or, far more often, down to the fact the recycling containers are left to overflow. Last time I went in the glass bank was removed for emptying and no replacement was left. I would say the council are to blame for these problems, especially as they are gradually withdrawing any meaningful recycling from people. Domestic recycling involves putting paper in one plastic sack, cardboard in another plastic sack and plastic in a flimsy plastic crate. (Interesting to hear that weighted bags exist, our council don't use them). The result of which is loads of plastic, card and paper blown all over the roads when it's windy and we're in a windy part of the country. I don't think our council is interested in recycling, all refuse goes to an incinerator so I expect, unofficially, they want all plastic, paper and card, to be chucked in to be burnt. What I find most strange is each individual district has it's own refuse and recycling set-up and they're all very different.

Reading this thread it seems everyone has a better council than we do. Our local council has gradually increased the size of it's vehicles so they do not fit down many local roads. They expect people to leave their refuse and recycling at the end of the road, for me that's half a mile away. They also expect recycling to be put in flimsy bags and boxes which blow away so it makes recycling impossible. They are also removing virtually all the recycling facilities in super market car parks so basically forcing many to chuck everything in landfill. Luckily I compost all green waste as they don't even provide the option for me to pay for a bin. As for fly tipping, the council do a fair amount of that as they often drop cardboard, glass and plastic out the back of the recycling lorries.

Wymberley, did you mean CFL or GFL? Did you find a true English 7 and what do you use them for? (Just looking at a 20 bore myself).

Have you looked at the Viht site? There are a few recipes. https://www.vihtavuori.com/reloading-data/shotshell-reloading-data/

If you click on the advert it says "GUN IS RIGHT HANDED PHOTO REVERSED"

I doubt it's down to that. I may have occasionally used the term because the place I've bought bullets from uses the term 'bullet head'. https://www.henrykrank.com/reloading/bullet-heads.html Probably more down to the fact people use the term bullet to refer to a cartridge.

Thanks for the link. Do you need anything for flux when you alloy with the tin at all? I have a tub that I use when casting lead which might work.

I'm a little confused by your story. Do you normally go our foxing with a large calibre rifle or where you expecting something else? I also thought it was strongly recommended to follow up a wounded boar as they can be dangerous if wounded.

Thanks for posting. Where do source the bismuth from?

Just Cartridges lists pheasant....! https://www.justcartridges.com/product/rc40-12ga-2/

I can't see why not, it's in a shooting forum and the title should warn the squeamish away.

It is possible in a rifle. There's data out there for 170/180gr going at 1650+ fps. You'd be right on the limit though and I wouldn't want to put them through my rifle.

I wouldn't say a manual is essential but one is very useful. The first manual I got was the Speer one as it came with my reloading kit. It may depend on what reloading kit you have and what bullets and powders you plan to use. If you're using Lee kit then the Lee manual may be the best for you. (Although, Lee die sets have good instructions in them). I have since picked up a 2nd hand Sierra manual as I use Sierra bullets. Worth noting that each manual will have a different set of reloading powders and in some cases the suggested charges will vary a fair bit. I also have a copy of the Lyman handbook and that's quite good to look through but has little Vihtavuori load data. (Like many powder manufactures there is Viht data online). I'd try and have a flick through some books in your local shop or if you're a member of a club ask if anyone could lend you one.

I quite agree. I do use mine to it's full potential occasionally but the costs will be much higher. More powder, a jacketed bullet and you're normally advised to use new brass. I assume @Apivorus is asking about gallery rifle loads, so light charges under 50m, often under 25m.

Leading isn't really a problem with light loads, especially as bought lead bullets tend to be hardcast, around 20 BHN. Most gallery rifle shooters I know will use a small charge of a fast pistol powder such as Vihtavuori N310, N320 etc. Typical speeds around 800-900 fps from a Marlin U/L. (Note, most load data you'll find will be for revolvers so will show a slower speed). You do need to be careful when loading when using small charges though as there's plenty of room in the case for accidental double or worse charges!

Not a million miles away. Looks like they are toilets: https://www.waterlesstoilets.co.uk/kl1/

Extraction problems mainly, although I think people complain the action isn't that smooth. It'll depend on what powder/load is shot in a .38 and how well the chamber is cleaned. When 38s are used dirt builds up in the last few mm of the chamber over time. I'm talking about people who shoot 100s of rounds and are not that thorough with cleaning. The latest problem I've seen was a ring of brass being left in the chamber from the end of a .357 case!

I've seen a few people have trouble using .357 rounds after shooting .38s in their Marlins. I stick to .357s. My costs are similar to 1066's although I tend to buy lead bullets which are around £40 per 500 so that's another 8p a round. Prices are constantly going up, a pot of suitable powder is closer to £50 now, and so is 1,000 primers.