Ausgunner
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Posts posted by Ausgunner
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On 07/05/2022 at 01:53, holloway said:
Ausgunner do you ever see any of these down there ? 101 Waterfowl came in 30 or 32 inch 3 inch chamber proofed to 4 tons multi choke ,fairly solid weighty old gun.This is one I rarely use nowadays.
No not really, mainly pigeon grades, field grades and every now and then a grand european or diamond grade pop up, lovely gun
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5 hours ago, tweedledee said:
I bought a m choke 30" sporter out of the mainland last week for 150£... Brought it with the intention of doing the woodwork up and using it as a rough gun....it's better than I thought..done a bit of work but plenty of life left in her yet..worth that all day long
Very nice, a 6500 is next on my list, bsst money you can spend in my opinion
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7 minutes ago, Scully said:
That looks a sleeper! I have one too. 👍
Indeed, top lever is nearly on the wood, no blueing wear anywhere tight as a nuns, i pick them up whenever find them at decent prices, lovely bits of kit the 101 line of guns
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Was lucky enough to find this few weeks ago, appears to have been shot maybe one time in it's life, £290 very well spent, i love these old 101's, every bit as good as the miroku of same vintage, and you can find them for half the price of a new ata sp
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50 minutes ago, Stephen-H said:
Wouldn't it be easier to pick up another 101 & just keep it for spares if the above was to ever happen?
Not really a cheap 101 has probably done it's life of shooting took me 5 mins to cut the springs down, few loops, cost zero
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On 26/03/2022 at 23:00, Scully said:
Why fix something that ain’t broke? 🤷♂️
I consider it more a preventative measure than a fix, the coil springs in fore end are strong and oversized to say the least, which is why it's not hard to find stories of broken kickers in them, i'd rather snip a few coils off than ever need a kicker tig welded and reshaped, each to their own, i love my 101s and whatever lengthens their life is an improvement to me
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Hi Lads, any owners of the kodensha built 101s who have done the ejector hammer mod of cutting some of springs down? Just wondering how many they cut, i have a few 101s and have never had a kicker fail touch wood but am considering lessening the spring pressure by cutting some down.
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10 hours ago, holloway said:
Completely agree on that .Over here new owners seem to get persuaded to buy new Turkish stuff .
Yes it's sad but also good as it means more for people who know how amazing they are to buy haha, happy shooting
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Beautiful guns, count yourself lucky you won't find many 101s over in Aus under 500£ and if they are they have shot 1million shells, i just picked up an unfired 101 black action waiting on it to arrive, i'll take a good cond nikko, 101, early miroku over any new gun today
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I like Jonny and his channel, has passion for our sport/game and being younger that's a good thing, as for the longthorne it is beautiful even though i'm no fan of sideplate ou's, but with that money available i'm probably getting a grade 5 miroku and few years of cartridges, i don't really understand their sales tactic based around barrels that can withstand a nuclear blast, it's overengineering at it's best, guess it's a sales tactics to be able to say my barrels can pry open a bank vault
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I've seen that action design on a 6000 skeet and 7000 trap, so it's a 6000 or 7000 special edition 🤷
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If there is no lateral or vertical movement with fore end off wouldn't worry about trying to tighten anything as about only thing they could do to tighten opening is build up fore end to put more friction on reciever face- which will just add wear, the 101 line of guns are looser opening compared to guns like miroku or beretta, beretta sits on ejector springs when opening, and miroku action gets resistance from it's trap door design, 101s have nothing after top lever is opened, so if no barrel play just enjoy her mate, 6500 is an absolute classic have a f/c version myself
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11 hours ago, JohnfromUK said:
This topic comes up regularly - and as always - there are different views.
Personally, I own snap caps, but only use them to check the gun (i.e. rarely). I never release the mainsprings or ejector springs to store.
I have hammerless guns over 100 years old with V springs - no problems left cocked for over 100 years, and coil springs (60 years old+) - no problems with springs in either.
Springs do break from time to time, but in my known mainspring failures (two, both flat V main springs) quite unrelated as far as I can tell to storage state. Ejectors are nearly always stored cocked - and I have never had an ejector spring break.
This is the thing though i didn't post to ask for a debate haha i just thought it may help someone, the debate came to me 😅, understand both sides to the argument, i myself use them as it's cheap piece of mind knowing i can release them without a chance of damaging a pin, yes the chances of that are low as are the chances a spring failing, but when a set of pins and springs is 10 fold plus over a set of snap caps i look at it like why not, takes 2 seconds of google to find stories of pins chipping etc without caps so to me its worth the 1minute it took me to make a pair. Each to their own
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1 hour ago, Scully said:
So how do you ease the springs in the ejectors?
I all too well understand the for vs against debate mate- not really why i posted to start a debate so 👍, yes theoretically there is always a set of springs under pressure, but as i said my 70s miroku is main v spring, and a set of snap caps gives me piece of mind that they can be released- just like it says in the book that came with my gun, from the people that made it, and if you understand a v spring if kept under tension for long periods they can fail, not so much coils. If an ejector spring fails whoopty do gun will still work, if a main goes you are done for the day
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23 minutes ago, DUNKS said:
Good idea but I fear my firing pins would very soon destroy a pencil eraser.
If snap caps are not required why do Beretta insist that you use them? I think they know a bit more about gun maintenance than me!
Possibly if you have very long pins? Havent had any puncture yet
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11 minutes ago, ditchman said:
cant see the point of snap caps.............only a gunsmith would need them checking the ejectors after mending them..........
snap caps are nothing to do with releiving tension on springs leaf or coil.............i mean lets face it you dont wind off your tappets on the valves of you engine...everytime you are finshed with the car ??
Don't know many cars with v springs, When your gun has v spring mains and you don't like the idea of firing a pin against the breach wall they are cheap peace of mind, my miroku 1970s handbook recommends them and thats all the info i need.
27 minutes ago, enfieldspares said:No. no, no. My own strong opinion is that one should never use a fired cartridge as such a thing. Like the now long discredited British military practice of the "aiming disc" it is an accident waiting to happen. Use a proper snap cap that other than its dimensions is obviously, clearly and visibly different from an actual cartridge.
Not sure if you read it but a cartridge cut in half with kitchen roll isn't exactly hard to see, and if you are not smart enough to keep live rounds away from the gun when its not at a range or field you probably shouldn't own them
42 minutes ago, Scully said:Or alternatively, just don’t bother with snap caps! 🙂
I have v springs , i would rather use them when miroku themselves recommend them who built the gun, each to their own they cost nothing and thats all that matters to me
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Hi guys, just thought would share this as it's saved me 100£ on snap caps with my 6 shotguns, an easy perfect snap cap recipe
All you need is an empty hull, kitchen roll, pencil with eraser on end, and a soft eraser
cut hull 2/3rds way down,
Punch the primer out over a gap in a vice etc,
Then take the eraser section of a pencil off and push the rear of it through the eraser, it takes out a section of rubber the same size as primer hole.
Push the rubber you removed into hole and stuff the hull with kitchen roll just to add weight/ or oil.
And there you have it
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43 minutes ago, Rewulf said:
Its actually quite easy to grade steel you should do some research rather than flying off your hot little seat because you are offended that lesser quality steels with harsher wear patterns due to tolerances means lesser lifespan clap clap basics of mechanical lifespans,
And yes i do know of the guns we pass on as they are mostly bought by people who become members, i have worked here for a long time see a lot of guns come and go.
They are built to last their warranty as in they are not overengineered like lots of newage things- you take things so literal. What do you think i meant oh this here gun will last exactly 5 years and 1 day , you just sound so hurt that your ata is not seen as quality to me and a lot of other people who know these guns well as say a miroku, It isn't sorry, its an ok gun for the money, there are other options, you just can't accept that , good luck to you, enjoy your ata as i will mine. And i have had it 2.5years has done maybe 800cartidges at a guess, and yes i have had an issue an ejector overode the cartidge from early on, the ejector was splayed they replaced it over a month. Best wishes
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On 06/04/2021 at 22:11, Rewulf said:
Lets just say being involved in the running of a clay club for more years than you is PART of my experience.
Servicing and repairing shotguns and sec 1 firearms is another part.Im no where near offended, and you are not stating facts, you are stating YOUR opinion , based on YOUR experience of how many was it , 2 guns ?
Hang on a cotton picking minute You said they lasted a LIFETIME ?!
So why do you get rid of them after 3 years ?So either , in YOUR opinion, they have reached the end of their 'reliable' life after 3 years / 60,000 carts, so you sell them to some poor mug after a quick oil..
OR... You get rid of them for no apparent reason, even though theres what , a good 50 years of use left in them ?Which is it ?
Never said one was better than the other, but 3 years warranty on a brand new gun is what it is , 3 years peace of mind.
That really makes no sense, of course its a safer bet, for 3 actual years !
And guess what ? Ive had 2 silver pigs , brand new , and both were back at the shop with a couple of months, for failure to fire second barrel, £1600 and 1700 , yes they were sorted under warranty, but does that show good QC ?
Ive also got a cheapo ATA , it does 7-8000 carts a year, and Ive had it 4 years, never been a problem, half a dozen at the club , early ones had a trigger issue, later ones , no issue, despite the 'low quality metal' you seem so keen to point out , with absolutely no evidence or qualification.I deal with a lot of gunshops, and most of them sell ATA shotguns, because they sell well , and the breakdown rate is low.
They are a good value gun, if they were not , people wouldnt buy them, beginners or otherwise.Its nothing more than gun snobbery, trying to intimate 'my guns better than yours' because it was more expensive.
When most of the time that isnt even true.Well for starters all of my personal guns cost around the same money, so show me where i said my multi thousand dollar gun is better than anything else?
And for your information my father is an aerospace engineer who knows a little more about metallurgy than you and when it comes to opininons like yours over facts on material qualities i'll take facts everyday of the week,
We replace the mk70s every 3 years as we have a contract with our firearms supplier to do so, we support their business by doing so of that is ok with you??? i know of 15 guns that have been sold on and have never had an issue whatsoever,
There you have it you just admitted the major influence is a nice warranty of comfort zone. I won't disagree the 686 series has gone backwards hence why i said they are overpriced,
If it offends you personally because you have an ata that people disagree that for the money it is a better buy due to the only fact it has a longer warranty over a better made gun that is your issue.
I own one, i like it for what it is , they are decent value 100% but it isn't snobbery to say a gun is made to a higher standard when it is, its simply pointing out there are other options than having to only go for a new cheap gun if you are entering the market with that money, amd more people need to know that than just being told no buy new cheap as uou have a warranty for longer. Plus i support local businesses more than importing companies.
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7 minutes ago, Taileron said:
Wow, that degenerated to personal insults very quickly, well done👍
I will have a go at laughing at myself later on today as I own an MK70, Mk38 Teague, 2 ATA’s and 2 Koffs and report back.
I was replying to the other person who was basically being offended by basic engineering and steel grade comaparisons in regards to longevity of mating faces etc between a miroku and an ata. But thanks
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Actually my knowledge comes from what i have witnessed first hand at my club over my 15 years there and my time pre working there, what is your experience? our club uses mk70 miroku's as loan guns, they are kept for 3 years and will shoot somewhere in the area of 60,000 conservative figure in 3 years, serviced and sold on, the only issues in that time have been lower firing pins pitting on small number of guns and a cracked stock from being dropped, we purchased 2 ata's in 2019 and both had problems, where moved on early due to ejector wear and gouging in receiever/fore end mating faces , if you get offended by someone stating facts thats your issue. There are massive differences in steel quality and geometry- hence why so many mirokus etc last so long, if you have an ata thats fine they are a decent option for someone who needs to buy a warranty but there is a big gap, if you believe they are better than a miroku of any age in good condition you are showing what little knowledge you have of these guns, and actually no my ata is my rain gun/ or gun i will allow a friend to use with respect on a game/trap day. Anybody who actually knows miroku will laugh at you saying a new budget gun with warranty is a safer bet, 600£ gun post warranty you have sears fail or the likes, then you will understand why i said the gun is a replacement item
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I've commented on a few of these posts as its basically a question i am asked every week, what gun to buy/first gun, so for anyone else looking at this choice- i own an ata as a loan /backup gun and several older miroku's /winchester 101s,
The ata is well specd for the money- can get an adjustable, palm swell , looks ok shoots ok, multi choke etc.etc.
So as a first gun its an option-
Now that being said i will only compare it to what you can get for the same money/ as new silver pigeons are over priced for what they are.
But if you can shoot the ata or even strip it down and compare it to an 80s/90s 680, miroku, even a lanber.
They are a fair way off in levels of finish, metallurgy, geometry material quality, coatings, balance, trigger pulls etc.
I am not rubbishing them as they are a decent option and yes the warranty will sway many, but don't be afraid to look at used quality guns. An ata is a decent gun for the money, but for that money you are open to some very very exceptional guns.
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On 24/02/2021 at 00:12, johnphilip said:
Yes they did , the old guy who owns Ata Arms , has been on the go for lots of years.
They never made parts for beretta, the connection is stoegor who beretta own. And stoegor has been plagued by barrel issues
I have an ata as a backup gun,
Doesn't get shot a whole lot,
It shoots ok and handles reasonably enough- nose heavy,
If you plan on doing high volume shooting i would say go a used miroku , 680 etc
Ata fills a gap in the market well, but they are built to a budget and side by side with a miroku etc the quality gap is decent.
They are an ok gun for the money, and if only shooting 1000 or so a year they are a good option for people who need a new gun big warranty, but take them for what they are a budget built gun, if it fits you and you like it buy it.
But older quality over new with warranty is sound advice
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14 hours ago, Taileron said:
Please excuse my ignorance, but reading the post, that is precisely what you are trying to say.
Pointing out the gap between them is stating a fact, lots of owners of them seem to think there are no differences, like i said compare them all and see for yourself. I said they shoot ok and handle ok, don't remember saying they are overall a **** gun, they are ok for the money, but there is a quality gap, i wouldn't own one if i thought was total rubbish would i?
Miroku 800
in Guns & Equipment
Posted
Great old guns, just check barrels are clean- not chrome lined, and the usual stuff tight on face etc, great guns i've had plenty