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Jimbo yorks

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  1. My gold 10 has no crimp It has a plastic plug with a circlip welded into place at the end It takes 2 shells so no need to over think it.
  2. As the title really, Best place to buy lead shot at a reasonable price. Clay and game are just down the road but seem a bit wild on their prices!
  3. Steel shot co (clay and game) supply the bulk of steel to manufacturers. The warehouse had pallets with x4 55gallon steel drums full of shot, any size you want!
  4. Chris at pocklington guns probably can
  5. They are expensive unless you buy in bulk like 1000 plus. I've been trying to get a box of cheddite cases for the 28 and 12 for ages.
  6. The 48mm ones will take 42 gram steel bb no bother with a cork spacer to get the stack height. No need to cut them down then. As for cutting the wads I cut them at a 45 degree angle for a bit of overlap. Pop them in an old cut down case brass to give you consistent depth of slit. Out the 100 or so I fired last season i can't see any evidance of barrel scoring. The pieces I picked up were all in a good state no holes in them. If you plan on using harder shot like TSS stick to TPS wads, I don't think these cardboard ones would be up to it
  7. I have absolutely no idea! Its the original data from Steve at clay and game, just the pressure data Either way it kills geese Stone dead in the air so it good enough for me! Also quite a few others using that load. Clay and game probably can tl you the velocity having all the gear to do it now. So if your after data on the bio cups I'd give them a ring.
  8. I used factory chokes with no problems last year. Got a stud10 choke to try this year. Machine wise I've got a bit of a mixture. It's a mec600 10gauge but with gaep tools on it. Gives alot tighter better crimp. If your going down the machine route get the steelmaster, it's alot more suited to non toxic shot and doesn't have the issues that the standard one does with large shot bridging. Load wise I've been using 40grains of ssb 150 with 42 gram of steel bb in biodegradable shot cups from clay and game in cheddite cases. Shot a good few geese this year with that combo out to around 50 yards give or take.
  9. If you want a big boomer go for it. I love my gold 10. As for cartridges just homeload. It's not hard to do and works about alot cheaper. My 10ga cartridges work out cheaper than shop brought 12g 3.5. With my 10 I get about 10-15 yards extra range over people using 12 bores. You could certainly tell the difference when I was up in Scotland, I'd added a few more to the bag as a result of taking my 10 decoying
  10. No need to crimp when reloading IMHO. Some people do it, some don't I don't know anyone that does anymore! I've tried it and honestly didn't see the point, it didn't make any noticeable difference and it was an extra stage i could cut out of the process. If your components are of decent quality then you should have no issues! Your dies resizing button takes care of the correct neck tension for you (about 2thou under bullet dia) that gives enough grip on the bullet in the neck of the case. Also makes it consistent across the board regardless of brass thickness in the neck I reload alot 243, 308 and 300 win mag rounds per year
  11. Sorry to be cheeky, Any chance of you sending it to me aswell? Thankyou, Jimbo
  12. In the military fluted bolts take a tiny bit of weight out but in winter conditions reduce the chance of it freezing up. Reduces the contact area so if it does freeze up can be broken free. That and long with fluted barrels look ally as!
  13. I was stood on the stand with the pond infront of it (the one with the rat) A group of people using the set up next door to it, next thing bang and I'm stinging all up my left leg and back and pellets are pinging off the metal cage around me. They had shot where the clay emerged from the undergrowth about 4ft infront of the trap. Luckily they were clay cartridges and there was a bit of undergrowth and the peg board to take the energy a little out of them. Quickly legged it off the stand after that!
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