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Loki

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  1. Hi Suggest warm citric acid solution applied after cleaning, polishing and degreasing, let air-dry - Cast Boolits site has an explanation. I do same on my SS knives; carbon steel take on a matt black coating that reduces rust starting. L
  2. Hi Vmaxphil Do let us know what you decide to do about it, by who and how it looks when back in hand please......... L
  3. Hi Billy the G Wonderful - lucky man! If I recall when he did my watch 2/3? years ago his son was also involved in Horology - perhaps taken up the reins........... TZ-Forums seems to have some well respected Horologists, including those that work on older timepieces, but waiting times in months (Seamaster took 12 weeks and 8 before being accepted into lab) L
  4. Hi Gen'lmen Wirebrushed off all flaking/loose patches of paint using a drill attachment - surface pitted below. Touprelith acquired (thank you Screwfix). Undecided about the joints - seem solid enough but mulling over pumping in (syringe) some sort of 'super' adhesive - interesting link on U-tube using Superglue and bi-carb soda - rock hard..... Any further thoughts appreciated. L
  5. Hiya I have used Michael Swift for a full service on a a similar aged (and movement I recall) mechanical watch - can only recommend him highly (also used by a good friend for an equivalent watch). Linky: https://www.michaelswift.co.uk/index.php L
  6. Hi Tightchoke Thank you for your suggestion - not sure it will seal through and stop further washout of the lime-based morter in the bay below (I will repoint after sorting the leak-through gap). Been toying with cleaning out joints (with angle-grinder) and back-filling with epoxy resin to seal..... L
  7. Hiya All Mid-30s concrete? bay window cill, 3 sections butted up and painted over the years - 1. The joints have failed and been repaired poorly (not by me!), leading to water run-through to brickwork below - recommend options/how to make good, and with? 2. Cill concrete seems to have spalled? in some areas - recommend options/how to make good and using? 3. Flaking paint - options to remove from the concrete (given most paint strippers are 'lean' nowadays) and afore subsequently painting? I have some Zinnser int/ext sealer - good or other better option? Appreciate any guidance! L
  8. Hi Pleased to read you are sorted and a good/fair price. L
  9. Hi I had mine (a chronograph) done by Duncan Potter, an Independent, including 2yr warranty - if you want details PM me. There is a waiting list but you know he's good - via TZ-Forums. L
  10. Hiya Ditchman, Sir, Hopefully not too late - do tell me more (details) on fitting a winch (discretely) please (to other half's Yeti as I use far more!)? L
  11. Hi I've got one as second chariot, coming into its 4th year, had the Haldex done (thank you Wymberly!). Tyres changed on front last year, usual service items - I have these done couple of thou before due. Major expense - aircon compressor died and unfortuantely the XBR £30 clutch repair wasnt possible - godsend now in this weather! Yeti Owners club on tinternet is very helpful. Easier to get up into and out and down than car (Panzer), same diesel engines. L
  12. Hi If getting tank tested shop around - 38£ including a fill at a local Dive Centre, but 65£ at an Airgun Shop............. Fittings/connections/filling aids - BestFittings.co.uk. L
  13. Hi Polis said I could use my (unmoderated) .222R for fox in my (edge of town residential) garden so long as the bullet didnt leave my premises............neighbours might get jumpy so not advised but my decision. L
  14. Hiya Jackson Rifles obtained Counsels (Barristers) opinion on the need to reproof or not moderators and barrels - seems clear (to me) that a barrel that is threaded is not 'unduly reduced in Substance or Strength' so no need to send to proof house. Others reading of the opinion may differ. Link:http://jacksonrifles.com/zz-silencers/ukproof.htm L
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