mag357

Also interested in your Finnlight and would also would like to know how many rounds fired,homeloads or factory. Where abouts are you as I would want to purchase face to face. Cheers, John

National Pigeon & Pest Control, if you want details phone John on 01423711489 between 7pm and 10pm (weekdays only)and am sure he will give you all the info you need.

Been in NPPC for about 3 years and found JS to be very helpful,good bloke and lots of shooting oportunities to be had.Do your homework though and it will pay dividends.

Hi,have several new pigeon floaters for sale similar to CG's,been making them for several years now and we think they are the bees knees. See Hawkeye vid clip on here.

Hi, I am thinking of selling my Hornady (Pacific 366) 12 gauge progressive reloading machine as I have been using it for a number of years and am thinking of upgrading.Buyer will have to collect and I will demonstrate loading m/c in operation before buying,some spares are included.

Rifle now sold,just waiting for cheque to clear.

Up here in North Yorkshire everything covered in snow and pigeons mainly in the hedgerows and fir trees feeding on berries. I tend not to shoot them at this time just to give them a chance (soft hearted really), although if you are keen and love freezing your n*** off it can be profitable.Not big numbers but a few decoys in the hedge tops can be prifitable. Wait till the thaw and the rape pokes its head through.

Revised the price for quick sale to £1200 ono.

Reluctant sale as cash required to fund new project. Mannlicher Steyr Tactical Elite .223 Rem. Heavy Match Barrel 22.4" (570mm) Twist 1 : 9. Weight 9.4 lb. Built in Bipod Adjustable butt and cheek piece. Full length picatinny rail. Predator 8 Compact Moderator. 30mm. mounts included (but not scope) Hornady Die set (full Size,seater,crimper) Special Steyr bore guide. New price for rifle + mod. Currently £2142 Only 18 months old and approx 200 rounds fired. Collect or will RFD at buyers cost. £1200.00 ono

Have Pajero 2.8 Turbo SWB Auto and get 22/23 MPG, Taken the back seats out and get all my gear in.

I use shells also with silo jackets, light to carry and really stand out in the pattern. Add a couple of floaters when windy and leave the magnet at home.

I have Pajero 2.8 SWB on a "L" plate. Bought from dealer in 4x4 imports but had loads of proplems. Only got 13 MPG when I bought it (It was cheap). Took it to a spealist diesel engine company and got it sorted. Injector internals renewed, fuel pump all seals replaced and re calibrated.All hoses replaced and radiator replaced as original was blocked solid and rotten.All filters replaced and now I get 23/26 MPG average....try to lean it off any more and it becomes difficult to start. Had it about 3 months and got stuck it 4WD, transverse box rusted solid....no fluid for several years.Got recon box put in and now it will go anywhere, although with what I have spent on it I could of bought a new landcruiser...lol.

I had smashed up gun shoulder after accident, now use Benelli M2 and love it, no problem with recoil.Biekal notorious for felt recoil, made from plough shears and no give in the timber.

I get the lead free of charge from various sources and since I make my own shot can make carts for £90/1000 approx.

I load my own 12ga carts and also make my own shot.I also do quite a bit of clay shooting and pigeon shooting so dont want to put myself at a disadvantage with inferior carts. Ballistically I reckon my carts are as good if not better than factory bought and this also applies to centrefire carts as well. After making my own shot I opened up several factory carts and measured the average diameters of shot against mine and found that my shot was to a tighter tollerance, especially No.6's (2.6mm ave). I have also tried them on a pattern plate 1/4 choke at 30yds and pattern density was just as good with no big holes. The big advantage I have found I can control the powder more accurately, as measured against a chrono, velocities being more consistant (30 grm No6. at 1300ft/sec). Also taking care to complete the crimp my hand tool crimp uniformer ensures uniform pressures. Components I use are Vectan AS powder ( as used by top manufacturers) Cheddite CX primers and B&S wads. Hope this helps to make your mind up, also a satisfying hobby and carts at just over half the price of factory. I load all my centrefire ammo, .223 Rem, .303 British, 308 Win, 44 RemMag and 12ga shotshells on a Pacific (Hornady) 366 progressive.

All you out there who are making lead shot here are a few thoughts to ponder on . Me and hawkeye only make No.7 and No.6 size shot for 12ga cartridges. No.6 shot 2.77mm (0.109") dia. 225 pellets per ounce(approx). Lead roof flashing: 0.3% to 0.5% Antimony. Linotype: 12% Antimony(Sb), 4%Tin(Sn), 84% Lead(Pb), Lyman#2 Bullet Ingots: 5%Sb, 5%Sn, 90%Pb. Up to 0.5% Sb improves surface tension and hence rounder pellets and is generally sufficient for general purpose close range game and clays so you can get away with just using roof flashings.. For extra hard shot alloy the lead with linotype to roughly 2% Sb, if clay busting and medium range game (40/50 yds). For magnum hard shot and extreme clay busting (Fitasc) and those pigeons at 50yds + alloy with Sb to 6%Sb. Magnum hard 4%Sb for No.6/9's and 6%Sb for No.7,71/2,8,81/2. We tend to alloy our shot maker with the ratio of 4 to 1 or 5 to 1 lead/linotype and we have found this to give consistantly round and hard shot, taking pigeons well out to 50 plus yards. NB. hard shot patterns better at long range. Bear in mind that every time you melt lead you will lose a quantity of Sb and other alloys due to dross forming on the surface that you will be skimming off before casting. To check for relative hardness make up some small consistant sized ingots of known hardness, say some factory rounds (no.6 shot), place a ball bearing between your cast lead ingot (unknown hardness) squeeze in a vice for say 10 seconds (consistant pressure) and measure the indentations, alloy your lead to achieve the same indentation as factory lead, once achieved stick with it and you wont go far wrong. Just one more point get yourself digital thermometer and DONT get lead too hot (we keep temp 350deg C) as lead fumes are deadly, always work in well ventillated room.Lead poisoning can kill and put you in hospital for a couple of years. Arsenic is sometimes used in lead alloys as it is used to reduce surface tension, too much arsenic causes metal to shrink unevenly and causes cracking. Tin has opposite effect as arsenic and is therefore not generally added for shot making. Hope this bit of info helps all you shot makers out there.....good hunting :blink:

Have you tried Tim Hannam for Hornady .223 ammo, I have had no problem getting 50 V-max. John

Unless you can source lead (free) and make your own shot and a cheap source of wads and powder its difficult to make carts much cheaper than you can buy them. I make my own shot and do all my own reloading using a Hornady 366 reloader and I treat reloading as a bit of a hobby (retired now) and reckon I can make them for about £80/ 1000 as against £150/1000. If interested I live in Teesside and you are welcome to come up and see how its done.

I use the rubber heads on my hypoflappers on the magnet. I find that tucking the top of the rubber neck under the wing where is crosses the body is fine and they certainly look ok......whether the pigeons think so I have never asked then as they are usually dead when they land.......

I highlight neck bars and wings with Brilliant white matt emulsion.....just happen to have a gallon after doing the ceiling in house.....works a treat and wears well......

List no. 53 is the last one I have for "Spring 2009 Additional Winter rape and Spring peas." Which incidently has become redundant after the end of harvest 2009.

Hi, I have had a Benelli M2 in camo which I use mainly in the hide. I use mainly 70mm carts in 28grm and have no problems with recycling. Slow carts may be an issue as I chrono my carts and they are going out at 1320fps.

Best tip I was given when I got a choke stuck was to put in a jar of deisel and petrol 50/50 and leave to soak for a few days.The diesel and petrol mix will eventually 'wick' up into the threads and removal should be easy.

Well done K sorry I could not make it yesterday but glad the floaters did the trick for you. Even now I can't believe how good they are at bringing the woodies in....great day mate, hope it's a sign of the season to come. J. :yp: :unsure:

Knock me up a thousand as well.