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Pavman:

 

Have gone over all three video clips, and it is the same fault in all of them that is causing the problem. What is happening is Astra is heeling too far forward, the end of her rib cage is even with your left leg. It should be her R/H shoulder that is even to your leg. What is happening is she has lost sight of you in her periferal vision, so when she hears you stop or you say sit she turns out so that she can see you. Do you recall when I had you heeling , that I was making you turn and pop the lead every time she broke position? This is the exercise that you need to go back to, that and the one or two pace heel with the sits . If you clean up her heeling position she will start to sit in beside you like we had her doing on the training day.

 

Hope this helps, any questions just post.

 

NTTF

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keep practicing it on lead until it becomes second nature to her.

 

What you want to see is her lead slack the entire time you are heeling. When this happens she will heel along beside you in the same position. You may have to run a collar tab the first bit till you are 100% but maybe not.

Edited by new to the flock
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  • 2 weeks later...

hi NTTF

 

all going well, in order to keep her back I am running the lead round the back of my legs and adjusting with my right hand (letting slack in/out) she is sitting very nice on the lead, still drifts a bit off it so I have to keep on her all the time.

 

She is getting a lot more steady as a result and sits a lot longer (than when you met her last)

 

She will be in kennels next week as we are away, wonder what she will be like when we get back :thumbs:

 

pavman

Edited by pavman
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  • 1 month later...

hi NTTF

 

Update if I may,

 

heel work on the lead now very good, and getting better off the lead, sit stay very good with few breaks. I have re started stop whistle training to which she is a little slow to sit at distance but will sit no probs if not in full flight so good progress. She is 1 week into her first season so how long do i need to keep her out on harms way please?

 

pavman

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She will be in season for 21 days, the most cridical to keep her away from BEN are days 12 through day16 with day 14 being the absolute worse that she could come in contact with him. ;):lol:

 

Cheers

NTTF

:lol::lol::lol:

 

I think she may be to hot for Ben to handle, he is all bark!

 

how is the old fella LB

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  • 4 weeks later...

NTTF

 

All training been going really well, the stop whistle works as well! took her out a couple of times whilst friends shot and I handled her so she gets an idea of what its all about, have let her have two simple retrieves with two problems to address.

 

1, she seems to squeeze quite hard on warm game (but not cold or dummies)

 

2, If I don’t have her on the lead she will break and bolt after any retrieve

 

please advise your thoughts

 

pavman

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NTTF

 

All training been going really well, the stop whistle works as well! took her out a couple of times whilst friends shot and I handled her so she gets an idea of what its all about, have let her have two simple retrieves with two problems to address.

 

1, she seems to squeeze quite hard on warm game (but not cold or dummies)

 

2, If I don’t have her on the lead she will break and bolt after any retrieve

 

please advise your thoughts

 

pavman

Pavman:

 

1) Set her up in the back yard and hand her some warm game to hold...this can be completely thawed and room temperature birds.....when she takes it tell her gentle and to hold. This will get her use to holding birds that are not cck stiff.

 

She is probably a little heavy mouthed right now as it is all new in the field and she is feeling the excitement.

 

If this does not work after a few sessions let me know and we will go over it.

 

2) If you are talking on waterfowl??? Have your friends shoot while you work her. Put a flat collar on her, run a piece of cord or your slip line under the collar, and hold both ends in your hand. When a bird goes down do not let her go if there is presure on the lead. If there is no pressure and she does not try to break let go of one end of the lead, it will pull out from under the collar as she goes.

 

If in the uplands...use a flat collar and snap a 35 or 40 foot drag line on. Have your friends shoot, if she breaks stop her with the drag line and blow the sit whistle. Once she is sitting and focused send her for the retrieve.

 

Let me know.

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2) If you are talking on waterfowl??? Have your friends shoot while you work her. Put a flat collar on her, run a piece of cord or your slip line under the collar, and hold both ends in your hand. When a bird goes down do not let her go if there is presure on the lead. If there is no pressure and she does not try to break let go of one end of the lead, it will pull out from under the collar as she goes.

As always bud fab advise thanks

 

I assume with the slack lead, if she stays steady just let go one end and send her, if she pulls I still have control and can re sit her, would I then send her after a wait? or would we send the other dog so she knows not to rush after a bird

 

we take two dogs, one is a good steady field dog (my buddies) so we don’t have to send Astra out I just want to give her some experience to build on her training and confidence,

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If it is her turn to retrieve, (and there is no problem letting here have a few, nor having her sit and honour), when she breaks resit her be sure to line her to the mark and send her when she is calm...as calm as a Labrador gets on mark :sly: ....and settled send her for the retrieve.

 

You have the idea of the line leash already. I find it is easier if I tie one end of the line to my belt so that I am only holding one end.

 

Keep me posted... :devil:

 

NTTF

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  • 2 weeks later...

Hi NTTF

 

No Duck last time out so no breaking in to retrieve prior to command to worry about.

 

We now are getting good at left and right, I started with a treat on an upturned bucket either side of the yard, hand signal and retrieve to correct bucket gets treat.

 

I always go to both buckets so she has no idea what one I have put the treat on, and it did not take long to get the hang of it, now on dummies and going well.

 

I mix these in with other retrieves but have noted I have problems pushing her back on a blind or if she is convinced the dummy is closer, command is get back and hand signal. Up to 30 yards ok, if she has a pathway or break in cover she seems not to want to cross it and continue with the search.... please advise

 

 

pavman

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Pavman,

You need to run some lengthening out drills.

 

To start go to an open area, and pound in three marker stakes. The first one will be where you will make your initial throws of the dummy from, we are going to call this station zero. Next walk away from the throw area 25 meters, this is station 1, now walk a further 25 meters back this is station 2.

 

Start at zero and throw your bumper, or send for your blind. As she goes out for the retrieve jog backwards to station 1....you have just lengthened her out by 25 meters. This builds her confidance in working farther away from you. Perform this exercise until she will work comfortably at this distance then try giving her a blind at the full distance sending her form station 1 instead of zero. When she can perform this well go back to station zero and once you send her jog back to station 2. Once again working until she is comfortable before sending her from that station. It will not hurt to send her from station 1 occasinally during this last part as well.

 

The key to all of this is she needs to find the retrieve when sent, so that she will learn that the bumpers are farther than you can throw.

 

NTTF

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Start at zero and throw your bumper, or send for your blind. As she goes out for the retrieve jog backwards to station 1....NTTF

 

Thanks bud will start work on it

 

do i really need to jog? only I am sporting some prime suffolk belly o pork :sly:

 

pavman

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Funny, your beautiful wife called me before I posted that and asked if there was anyway I could get you running, and back into shape with the dogs training......I had to agree with her.... :lol::lol: .....So now we are out for the new and improved pavman....sleek , slim, and double the stanima.....able to lift tall Goblins in a single bending of the elbow, able to carry 4 pints from the bar instead of 2, able to.....well you get the picture.... :lol::lol::lol::D

 

 

Just remember Mate the She :sly: mad me do it.

 

 

NTTF

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:sly::lol::lol:

 

i would not put it past her,

 

She said you cant come over till I have painted the guest room as it needs a spruce up, so get saving for next years duck season sept 1st onwards, and we will get you some day tickets for our marshes, by that time i should have finished painting

 

pavman

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  • 1 month later...

NTTF, hi

 

The drill to lengthen her out have gone well but raised another problem.

 

We had Left and Right going well, I can now push her back to around 75 yards and stop her ok, however she will now go right no matter if I stop her and give her a left or right.

 

Stop has been whistle and raised right arm,

 

for her to move to my right (her left) has been right arm and a good signal with body movement in that direction.

 

Go away form me is, Go Back and a Left hand signal hand raised forward (like throwing a ball) so as not to be the same arm as stop,

 

Move to my left (her right) has been good left arm signal with body movement to my left, I can give her Rights and go back all session with no probs but lefts (her right) she tends to go back or right,

 

is she on overload? she is now 13 months, please advise

 

pavman

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ok will try to get some film at the weekend,

 

the week pans out, mon a m, 3 card trick, 3 dummies out left right back, p m basic heal work on walk out + stop and recall

 

tues a m as mon p m tues p m as mon a m

 

wed as monday

 

thurs rest/play

 

fri as mon

 

sat in the field shooting on warm game woodies, rabbits

 

sun rest/play

 

she is fine on seen, marked game/dummies its blinds the probs start

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NTTF

 

just read this topic with interest i too only use the stay command, so would it be a good idea for me to to teach the dog the wait command. As pavman says it makes sense, I dont have any problems with her moving but i can see where the dog could get confused.

 

thanks jeff

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