Jump to content

A pair of new tyres...front or back?


minghis
 Share

Recommended Posts

So, the front tyres on the Maverick are being replaced with nice new ones. They were Pirelli Scorpions as are the half worn backs.

 

The question is - should I put the new ones on the front and leave the half worn ones on the back or have the new ones on the back and put the half worns on the front?

 

The new ones won't be Pirelli Scorpions at £100 each, they'll be the cheapest budget ones I can get due to the type of use the car gets. This means Chinese Nankangs or something similar/cheap.

 

Opinions please?

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I always keep the best tyres on the front as it takes more of a pounding and takes the car around the bends at speed.

Cheap tyres tend to give out on tight bends in the wet.

The best tyres are not always the new ones. I`v had old ones that are worn but grip better than the new cheap ones.

If the front gives way you will struggle to hold it.

If the back gives way you can often hold it nicely. :good:

Edited by COACH
Link to comment
Share on other sites

The bit at the bottom of the michelin link is the key, 4x4 should be replaced as a set if possible to reduce the risk of transmission windup, which will eventually knacker all the UJ's in the drive shaft.

If the maverick is selectable 4x4 not permanent then I would put the new ones on the back personally as they do the most work with regards to traction.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Tyre companies say rears, and I have had a lengthy arguement/discussion with a tyre fitters about it...

The reasoning is that is you start to loose the back end, the majority of numpties won't be able to dial it out.

By some reasoning that never really made sense to me, apparently it's better to lose the front end???

But, if you lose the front, there's sweet FA that any of us could do, so we might as well have a fighting chance of getting the back to behave.

 

 

In terms of only changing pairs not four tyres, if a vehicle is permanent 4wd doesn't mean it will wind the prop shafts up. The whole purpose of a centre diff is to allow the two transfer box outputs to turn in the same direction and differing speeds. Only if it was put in "lock" on tarmac will it wind up, and then you will really know about it, as it skips and pops its way around any decent corner

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Loosing front grip is easier to cope with, the car will just push on in a straight line, just slow down, if the back steps out and sends you into a spin most drivers wouldn't cope, pretty much all modern cars are set up to under steer these days if on the limit as its safer than over steer

Link to comment
Share on other sites

plus new tyres can be like on ice until scrubbed in (to use a motorsport term) also that way you replace 2 at a time fairly regualry if you put on the front eventually you'll be forking out for four at once not just two.

More car and wallet control with putting them on the rear.

Edited by danccooke
Link to comment
Share on other sites

The following is borrowed from www.etyres.co.uk

 

 

When changing tyres on a 4x4 vehicle there are a number of important things to consider. Two of the most important (and costly if ignored) are matching tread depths between new and used tyres if not replacing a full set and maintaining the correct rolling circumference if changing tyre sizes.

 

Matched tread depths are important as too large a difference can, on certain vehicles result in "wind-up" of the 4WD system differential causing serious damage. This will be dependent to some extent on the type of differential and 4wd system used on a particular vehicle.

 

For instance consider the following:

 

A vehicle fitted with 265/70R16 (Nissan Patrol size)

 

A new tyre will, according to the industry standard dimensions (ETRTO) have an overall diameter (O/D) of 792mm.

 

Average tread depth when new will be around 10mm.

 

A tyre with 5mm remaining tread depth will have an overall diameter of 782mm (original O/D - [2x5mm]).

 

To obtain the theoretical rolling circumference of the tyre you multiply the O/D by 3.05.

 

 

--------------------------------------------------------------------------------

 

Calculation:

New tyre rolling circumference

792 (original O/D) x 3.05 = 2416mm

 

Tyre with 5mm remaining tread depth

782 (O/D worn tyre) x 3.05 = 2385mm

 

Difference of 31mm

 

This means that the new tyre will have 31mm further to travel for every revolution of the wheel.

 

A tyre of this size will rotate approximately 413 times per km, therefore for every km driven the new tyre will travel an extra 12830mm or approx 13 metres!!!!

 

Tyre manufacturers and retailers have differing views about the maximum allowable difference in tread depths between new and worn tyres fitted to a vehicle but in general most recommend a difference of no more than 3 - 4 mm. All manufacturers will recommend fitting at least matched axle sets.

 

If in doubt consult the vehicle manufacturer before fitting new tyres.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.
Note: Your post will require moderator approval before it will be visible.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.

Loading...
 Share

  • Recently Browsing   0 members

    • No registered users viewing this page.
×
×
  • Create New...