Problem with sticky oiled gun stock

[Toombsy]

This is really bugging me know, and I'd appreciate any help...

 

I have recently stripped a laquered stock and forend. I've used Napier London Gunstock Finishing Oil directly onto the wood as I know it contains colour enhancers.

 

It's worked a treat - exactly the finish I wanted.

 

But there's one big problem with it... it's tacky to the touch. But I've used that oil on another of my guns and that's fine.

 

I've done nothing different between the two guns - I simply put a dab of oil on my thumb, work it between my fingers and rub it until it's warm. The coat I give them are microns thin.

 

How come the stripped gun that I did still refuses to dry rock hard? Any clues??

[Sinistercr0c]

I have no experience of this type of thing, but to my mind might it be possible that the previous coating on the stock (the laquer?) or whatever you have used to remove it has reacted with the oil thus making its less likely to dry out? Or could it be that the laquer and/or compound used to remove it have clogged up/blocked the pores/grain in the wood so making it difficult for the oil to soak in....

 

Hope you get a more definitive answer.

[Toombsy]

That does sound feasible mate, but I am absolutely sure I removed all the previous lacquer through using Nitromors and sanding down really well

 

A bit more background... both guns were stored at room temperature after oiling.

 

I've stripped the new gun down again three days ago using 0000 grade wire wool and white spirit. The wood's dried overnight in the airing cupboard and now I've given it one very, very thin coat of oil, wiped off the excess (as per instructions) and put it back in the airing cupboard for at least two days to see if that makes a difference.

 

Still seeking some guidance from others though, if anyone can help....

[JRS]

has the solution had frost damage in this bad weather ?

[Toombsy]

No mate. It's stored in the house.

[George1990]

Buff it up loads with a cotton rag

[harv]

could be several things is it an old stock as oil could have penetrated quite deep and is coming to the surface a few hours after sanding.raise the grain by covering with water and drying quickly with a hair dryer then leave for 24 to 48 hours to harden. sand back in mixing your oil 1 to 2 parts mineral spirit with wet and dry 400 grit and wipe off excess. (this should be done several times starting at 240 grit to 600=800grit if necessary) to fill the pores leaving 24hrs between each application. leave 24 hrs and then handrub in oil again with plenty of friction and just enough oil to cover the stock.too much oil not rubbed in correctly will remain tacky and repeat oiling every 24 hrs until you are happy with the finish.

a walnut grain sealer may also work but the above will give a better finish.

[Marcus]

This is really bugging me know, and I'd appreciate any help...

 

I have recently stripped a laquered stock and forend. I've used Napier London Gunstock Finishing Oil directly onto the wood as I know it contains colour enhancers.

 

It's worked a treat - exactly the finish I wanted.

 

But there's one big problem with it... it's tacky to the touch. But I've used that oil on another of my guns and that's fine.

 

Have you done these guns together (as in at the same time or within a week or two) or is there a bigger time difference between each?

 

I've done nothing different between the two guns - I simply put a dab of oil on my thumb, work it between my fingers and rub it until it's warm. The coat I give them are microns thin.

 

How come the stripped gun that I did still refuses to dry rock hard? Any clues??

 

Is there is a larger time difference between working on each gun, like a few months? If that is the case then the molecular structure of the Oil has gone. I havent used this oil myself, but essentially its a blend, which includes resins and dryers. Oil can 'spoil' with time, especially once it has been opened to the air, even though it may have been sealed since last use. If thats the case, get a new tin and try again.

 

If they have both been worked on within a relatively short period of time, then there is a reaction going on between the old finish and the new.

 

I would strip it back and leave to fully dry out, if in doubt leave it a week to dry, not in the airing cupboard, but at room temp. Once you have done that, try a little oil as you have been, wiping over with a clean cloth to remove any excess, leaving to dry at room temp and see if that helps. They key here is completley removing the old finish, and starting with a bone dry stock - the surface may feel dry, but a couple of mills in and it could still hold moisture and that is more likely to cause a reaction.

 

If you were a bit closer I would have got the moisture meter on it for a definitive answer

 

Hope this helps and gives you a few ideas

 

Marcus

[Edward]

did you get a lil white bottle with some thinner oil in it?? Iv got some rub that over and it hardens it off. I kept having it go tacky before i used this stuff

[pandamonia]

Rub with hands to make friction this should result in the oil becoming smooth, also polish it with furniture polish and rub with a rag and this will give a no stick finish

[Zapp]

Perhaps cutting some linseed 50/50 or 60/40 with white spirit (dominant proportion) would help thin the residue and help it to penetrate

 

Thinking out loud here, please dont treat this as a tried and proven solution.

 

What say the rest of you?

 

ZB

[malkiserow]

Perhaps cutting some linseed 50/50 or 60/40 with white spirit (dominant proportion) would help thin the residue and help it to penetrate

 

Thinking out loud here, please dont treat this as a tried and proven solution.

 

What say the rest of you?

 

ZB

 

Agreed Zap

 

I would try the oil on a spare piece of wood and check it works OK.

 

Are you saying you oiled the wood, wiped off any spare and rubbed well into the grain but later on the oil became stick with more coming back out of the wood?

 

Consider using driers

[harv]

Agreed Zap

 

I would try the oil on a spare piece of wood and check it works OK.

 

Are you saying you oiled the wood, wiped off any spare and rubbed well into the grain but later on the oil became stick with more coming back out of the wood?

 

Consider using driers

 

do not use anything to speed up the drying process if you have a dampened stock it may crack and or the oil will become even tackier,leave to dry at room temp the latter coats will take at least 24 hours and use walnut oil not linseed.

[Marcus]

From what he's said, using it very very sparingly, absorption isn't his problem.

 

These blended oils, with built in driers will go off even if you swamp the wood with the stuff, take a bit longer to go off granted, you just get a really poor looking finish.

 

I personally dont like, and dont use blended products. Im quite happy using straight forward Danish, or similar to do the job.

[malkiserow]

do not use anything to speed up the drying process if you have a dampened stock it may crack and or the oil will become even tackier,leave to dry at room temp the latter coats will take at least 24 hours and use walnut oil not linseed.

 

Driers are for oil ........................not water

 

If the stock is damp, you don't want water anywhere near it.

 

Agreed with not speeding up water drying.... don't over do the water or speed it up. But from what Toombsy said he is way past raising any grain.

 

Practice on scrap wood for anything you wish to try

Edited January 19, 2010 by malkiserow

[Toombsy]

Many thanks for all your replies

 

I reckon I might have the problem solved.

 

After doing it all again, I've just retrieved the wood from the airing cupboard and the first, really thin coat, has gone off and hardened perfectly already. There's no stickiness at all this time

 

It's going back in the cupboard for another 24 hours, then I'll rub on the second, really thin coat tomorrow.

 

Finger's crossed that extra heat in the airing cupboard is solving the problem

[Egg]

the case then the molecular structure of the Oil has gone

That's what I was thinking.

 

Use this stuff myself and TBH it really needs a very, VERY good shake prior to use due to the mix of ingredients. I store mine in the fridge (next to the Calpol & Jnr. ibuprofen - my wife loves my hobby ). I leave it to get to room temp before I'm ready to use it.

 

I didn't shake it as well as I should have 1st time and got the same sticky effect.

 

Quick rub-down with 0000 wire wool, crazy-assed shake of the bottle for 5mns then vigorous rubbing with a wad of fourbytoo, 24hrs to cure - bingo! Didn't happen again