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.22lr range and zero


vampire
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Hi,should be getting my fac in next few days :o ,have got slot for .22lr and a .223,wish i had put fac air as well.

When i zero the 22lr what range should this be and also what distance will i be able to shoot without hold over.i have read on a post about .17hmr being zeroed at 100 yrds and this would then give rifle no hold over from 50-125 yrds.

Also,what would you go for a czlr or a remi auto :o ,and why.

ATB

Karl

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I zero my 22lr to 60 yards for vermin i find it does everything i need zeroed in at that range,if your going to get a semi get a ruger 10/22 as theres loads for after market spares available and there great fun to shoot.

If your going to get a bolt action get a Anschutz as they cant be beaten for accuracy.I was going to go for a hmr too but went for a 22lr and 223 as my force wont let u use a 17 for fox.

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Ive never owned an annie but I can say that CZ452 .22LR is a very accurate rifle and are very popular in all of its variations.

Mine is zeroed at 50yds and will shoot out to 65yds or so before holdover kicks in. (1 milldot at 80, 2 milldots at 100, 3 milldots at 120) you might stretch this by zeroing at 60 but you may have to content with holdunder in the mid-ranges. Others may better advise you on this.

I can quite happily take out bunnies at 120yds with a head shot. Takes a bit of practice but its the human thats the weak link... not the rifle.

 

cheers

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I assume you are talking vermin/pest/game control.

 

Do not beat yourself up about FAC air...the .22lr with the mass of ammo available will deal with that.

 

60 yard zero on my .22lr which is pretty much exclusively a sub sonic tool, get to know it WELL and you can deal with rabbits to 100 yards with subs!! Around 4-5 inch drop with subs at 100 yards with a 60 yard zero!

 

 

You can deal with just about anything in this country with a .223!

 

Whatever you have used before be careful, the .22lr is an excellent tool and powerful enough to do lots of damage...be VERY careful, the .223 is another world and if you are not used to centrefires you will get a big surprise....SAFETY, SAFETY, SAFETY, once that bullet has left the barrel there is **** all you can do about it!!

 

ATB!!

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Optimum for a .22LR firing subs is 55yards, 60 is fine but will leave you needing to hold under at around the 40yard mark. Ideally you want to have it flat shooting for as big a range as possible and I found the 55yard zero gave me "aim at it" range out to a little over 60yards but I've hit plenty at double that.

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54 is pretty much the optimum zero range. It lets you aim straight out with no hold over or hold under from 12 yards to 60 yards, then out to 95 yards the hold over is only 1 mil dot. So you can shoot all the way out to 95 yards will only 1 mil dot maximum hold over. Although not recommended to shoot quarry at that range with a 22 lr.

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then out to 95 yards the hold over is only 1 mil dot. So you can shoot all the way out to 95 yards will only 1 mil dot maximum hold over. Although not recommended to shoot quarry at that range with a 22 lr.

 

 

Are you sure about this? It might be if you're shooting at something like 3x but mildots are mag dependant (unless the scope is FFP)

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54 is pretty much the optimum zero range. It lets you aim straight out with no hold over or hold under from 12 yards to 60 yards , then out to 95 yards the hold over is only 1 mil dot. So you can shoot all the way out to 95 yards will only 1 mil dot maximum hold over. Although not recommended to shoot quarry at that range with a 22 lr.

 

 

 

What ammo are you talking about, I struggle more than a little with that statement in blue whatever ammo, but especially subs!!

Edited by Dekers
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What ammo are you talking about, I struggle more than a little with that statement in blue whatever ammo, but especially subs!!

 

 

I'd go along with that, I zero at 55 using Winnie Subs, I never hold under on a sub 60yard rabbit. I'm not sure if it would hold true down to 12 though as I've never got that close to one that wasn't mixy'd and was then dispatched at much closer than that but for those 30-40 yard ones I can go straight at them, the deviation should only be half an inch at the most according to Chairgun and I've found that to be the case in the field too.

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Heres the trajectory of the bullet

 

 

Thats what the chart says...and inch variation up to the half way point, and another inch down to the end, so a a fair bit of variation over that small distance which makes a difference if you are shooting at a rabbits head!

 

ATB!!

 

PS why 1.75 inch scope height, most commonly 1.5inches, and can I ask where you got the BC, I always struggle to find accurate BC for rimfires!! Cheers!! ???

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Sorry to be pedantic but if you look carefully its actually half an inch above and below giving you a one inch kill zone, which i think is a reasonable figure for a rabbit. The scope height i actually measure using a set of vernier calipers i took the measurement from the very top of the scope objective to the underside of the barrel then subtracted half the diameter of the objective and half the diameter of the barrel so that i hade the exact distance between the bore and the crosshair of the scope rather than just going on the height of the scope mount. Also i got all the ballistic information from rimfirecentral, heres the link http://www.rimfirecentral.com/forums/showthread.php?t=57007.

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  • 2 months later...

Not wishing to be controversial as a definite fan of rimfire but.......

I shoot (very fortunate to have the permissions) over a couple of hundred acres in Sussex and 99 times out of 100 take the FAC air rifle. Not only is it almost silent but will (with a lot of practice I admit) allow me to confidently (and without worrying about a mile and a half of lethal potential) head shoot bunnies at 75 to 80 yards. The rimmie is more fun but between hedge rows and in the medium sized fields round here the air rifle is a much less worrysome and much safer.

Not as macho or popular I know but very effective. Ranges are of course more crucial to know but 22gr at 27ft lbs needs a dot under below 30 yds zero at 45 a dot over at 60 and two at 75. Just takes a little more practice to use and get used to. The only drawback is the cost of the rifle but at least the ammo is cheap! Honestly I'd keep it over the rimfire 22. Don't right it off,may not suit you but worth a look I'd say. No noise at the muzzle and a hell of a crack when it hits a skull......macabre but very satisfying when done well. I'm happy to "relax" a little and sacrifice 30 odd yards extra useful range 'cos whatever happens the pellet won't ever end up in the next county.

Safe shooting

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i took the measurement from the very top of the scope objective to the underside of the barrel then subtracted half the diameter of the objective and half the diameter of the barrel so that i hade the exact distance between the bore and the crosshair of the scope rather than just going on the height of the scope mount.

 

Another way to determine scope height on a rifle is to measure the bolt OD and the scope tube OD, halving both and adding to the gap between top of bolt and underside of scope. It all depends on where you can get clear access to take the measurement.

 

I suspect a major part of where you get different mildot info from Colster is the mag setting of 6.5.

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Okay, i use .22 rf .22 FAC air 30ftlb and HMR with various centrefires also, i do disagree with some of the statements made here and feel as soon as any what range? thread occurs on any forum the braggers come out and common sense can take a walk.

 

Firstly i very much dispute the safety point made with extra caution towards .223 over .22 lr IMO .22 rf is one of the most dangerous rounds as it will ricochet with very little provocation indeed, CCi segmenting have very little positive effect on this negative indeed they seem to only be pushed at the UK market this way. 223 has longer range but that should be a non issue safety wise if backstops are considered with both cals at all times

 

Second FAC air is very usefull shorts like CB caps from .22rf shoot generally very much worse 2" at 50 yds would be very impessive think more of 3-4". A PCP air putting out around 30 ft lb is a great tool for knocking stuff out of trees like squirrels mine is capable of less than 1/2 moa at 50 yds (user error being entirely to blame on misses) and the safety fall out range is very limited say 400yds max on a steeply inclined shot with only 1/2 ft lb enegy as it stikes the ground (dependant on power level angle of fire and pellet) and using closer to livestock etc were the Rimmie would give me the willlies with bouncers sometimes occuring off Rabbits heads even from time to time. Not saying the air pellet will never bounce just nothing like the LR and being less than half the weight a projectile and easily deformed by initial impact ,looses energy rapidly and it's unlikely to amount to much of a threat to sheep or cattle if you take proper care

 

Third the HMR will handle the shots over 65 yds that we used to struggle to take with the .22 and will easy go out to 120/130 with head shot accuraccy and very minimum hold over (provided it aint windy that is) So why push the .22? i zero at 47 yds and use it to that 65 yds now, yeah i used to push it further but even with the highest quality ammo you still get the odd popper or cracker that leaves your little bughole group and in the field accurate and quick range assesment is a lot harder than closing in another 30-40 yds. Personally i would rather get the thrill of the stalk and miss taking the shot at all now and then ,than get wounders and suspected but never totally confirmed misses.

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  • 3 weeks later...

Hi Guys new to this forum but been a shooter for many years. I have read lots of forums with people asking advice about what range to zero a .22lr at and the norm seems to be anything between 25 and 75 yards then use hold over/under which could be quite confusing to a newbie.

 

My advice for what its worth but worked for me when I started out was to zero in at 50yards then with out moving rifle (use clamp if possible) at all move target to 100 yards use the same aim point as 50yrd and fire 3-4 shots. Group will be larger and about 3-4 inches lower depending on what ammo used then mark center of group with tape or small patch and still with rifle in same position adjust magnification until the group is level with the top of the bottom duplex post.

By doing this you can aim center for 50yrd shot, between center and top of bottom duplex post for 75yrd shot and top of duplex for 100yrd shot.

Obviously this method depends on a variable mag scope and crosshair/duplex recticle.

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i zero my kit at the following ;

 

fac air (40ft lbs .22) 40 meters (this is only used to shoot up trees )

 

.22lr 50 meters (90% of the use is now lamping at this range and less)

 

.17hmr 100 meters (pretty much the workhorse and gets used the most from 20 - 140ish mtrs)

 

i think someone had a valid point about pushing ranges ; i know some people will have much more practice and feel comfortable with pushing ranges, i tinkered around with various distances, but settled on those above to give the most 'usable' spread without having to worry about holding under / over.

 

good point made about the .22 lr , please dont underestimate its ability to bounce off things!! i stopped using it when the ground here was very dry (heavy clay).

 

each to their own.. :blink:

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  • 1 year later...

Just thought i would add my two penneth, I zero my .22LR @ 25 Yards, its pretty much on from there on out to 60 Yards where its bang on again, i,ve used this method for years after my Dad taught it to me,

 

Zero @ 25

Then with a target at 35, 45, 55, 65, 75 aim centre of visible mass and watch the strike on each target raise slightly before coming back on between 55 & 65 where it then starts to fall off massively as you all know.

 

Then when out in the field depending on quarry, in my case "Rabbitt" aim neck at closer range for head shot and then ears for 70-75 yds top middle bottom ?

 

Its pretty much second nature now and i think i last zeroed my .22 about 3-4 years ago ?

 

I hope that makes sense ?

It does to me but is probably of no use to any one else ?

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My original post and its nearly 2 years old (may 2010) :look:

Oh,i ended up zeroing at 65 yrds and its worked fine as i have taken many many rabbits :yes:

 

Yep, 70 for me, but what's 5 yards! If Chalky's sight height is somewhere between 1.5 and 2" then he's actually zeroed somewhere between 38 and 48 (both ish) yards.

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