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Which chainsaw to buy?


rob4586
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I have a Husqvarna, only a baby, the 236, but really nice and light with loads of power for cutting down small tress and doing all the firewood with. 16"bar, really revvy and nice and light. Husqvarna are nice, mate has a Stihl, and that is nice too, there like the Beretta or Browning of the Gun world!

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In my opinion due to design the Stihl have, they are more reliable and esier to dismantle, e.g clean (benifits of a inboard clutch) They also have very good spares availibility and the small ones arent made under license in Asia, e.g. Husquvarna

 

Thats why I would go for Stihl over husky .

 

Cheers OTH

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In my opinion due to design the Stihl have, they are more reliable and esier to dismantle, e.g clean (benifits of a inboard clutch) They also have very good spares availibility and the small ones arent made under license in Asia, e.g. Husquvarna

 

Yup that's why I am going for a good Husky made in Sweden. The big ones are still made in Sweden I believe.

 

Rob

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both saw manufacturers are good with equal backup. make your decision on feel if you can get to an owner or sales centre, personally i prefer husky (got a 346xp.) it will depend on what you are cutting, if its just firewood and small felling a stihl ms260 will do fine, if it's for bigger you might want more rip. have fun be safe.

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I've had Stihl chainsaws in the past - load of ***p, leak oil (normal according to the service centre :hmm: ) constant carb problems and the stupid "no tools" chain tensioner was unreliable - give me a spanner any day :good:

 

Switched over to Husqvarna a few years ago, no problems so far, only the normal servicing required - starts whenever needed.

Edited by agusta
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I have x4 stihl and 1x husky all over 10 yrs old now, the MS 260 is a really good saw used by alot of colleges, all I can say is I have had no problems with the Stihl the husky is old but I rebuilt it and runs well.

 

One Husky tip on removing the clutch, is to remove the plug and put some rope down the plug-hole and undo - lefthand thread.

 

One more tip - I fitted rim sprockets to all my saws, just thought I would say that :good:

Edited by Conygree
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Huskys are superb saws, as I have stated before I have the 455 rancher and wouldn't sell it if someone offered me the price I paid new. Stihl saws are also excellent, I've used a MS170 before and liked it, I just like the Husqvarna more, mine has the maximum 20" bar on it and powers through big ash wood no problem. In my opinion, and it's only my opinion, the Husqvarna just feels that bit more 'willing'.

Do you particularly need the e version of either saw though, I've used both makes with tool less tensioning and hate both! The tool tensioning version of the Husky takes seconds and is extremely precise, whichever saw you opt for, again only my opinion but I would vote for the spanner option every time. As for power, go for as much as you can afford, you can't add more at a later date, though on the flip side, more power = more fuel. The choice as they say is yours..... but I hope this helps. :good:

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Huskys are superb saws, as I have stated before I have the 455 rancher and wouldn't sell it if someone offered me the price I paid new. Stihl saws are also excellent, I've used a MS170 before and liked it, I just like the Husqvarna more, mine has the maximum 20" bar on it and powers through big ash wood no problem. In my opinion, and it's only my opinion, the Husqvarna just feels that bit more 'willing'.

Do you particularly need the e version of either saw though, I've used both makes with tool less tensioning and hate both! The tool tensioning version of the Husky takes seconds and is extremely precise, whichever saw you opt for, again only my opinion but I would vote for the spanner option every time. As for power, go for as much as you can afford, you can't add more at a later date, though on the flip side, more power = more fuel. The choice as they say is yours..... but I hope this helps. :good:

 

If the 'E' equates to tool less tensioning then get the normal wrench tensioning model, They dont do tooless tension on the large pro saws for one simple reason, its a gimick.

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If the 'E' equates to tool less tensioning then get the normal wrench tensioning model, They dont do tooless tension on the large pro saws for one simple reason, its a gimick.

 

That's exactly what it equates to and my thoughts exactly.

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I have the tool less tensioning on my 211c, It say tighten to the stop and I personally think its too tight so I end up fiddling with it getting to my exact requiremnts so proberly takes longer :lol: but saves me haveing to take the sparkplug thingy with me and loosing it :yes:

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Well my take on it is this...

 

It could well be running slightly rich? I was told by a mate that this is good for new saws, just a little more lube for the running in period?

 

Stihl are easier to look after I think. No greasing the clutch bearings, bar nose sprocket etc. They also seem to plod along a lot better and aren't too fussy. Down side is they weigh a little more than the Husky alternative.

 

The Husky is like a F1 car. Get it running on song and they're lovely saws. Hugely powerful for their weight and very revvy. But get the slightest sign of muck in it or not be very thorough with the servicing and that's it - it aint gonna go!

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