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Tuning a HW80


Riothedog
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give the guy a break,

 

All he wants to know is how to strip an 80 down and rebuild it, replacing any damaged or worn bits.

 

I have ahd all my guns "tuned" and all have been circa 11.5 ft lbs, to make them quieter and smoother in action with all bits and bobs as tight as you like.

 

perhaps someone might offer him some help here, without necessarily jumping to the conclusion that he's about to convert an old springer into a FAC airgun.

 

I am sure he would be happy to receive tips "off-line"

 

bindi

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When people normally talk about tuning then it is to increase the power

That is the most ridiculous thing I have ever heard.

 

To 'tune' an air rifle generally means to make it smoother, more consistent, and generally nicer to use.

 

Companies like Venom wouldnt have cornered the market for 'pushing guns over the limit illegally' like they have tuning, would they.

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The trouble is this form of communication is about the best way to get misinterpreted and misunderstood!

 

possible.  :(

What does that mean heh? You having a pop sonny? Why I outta............

 

:D;););):D:D;):P:P

Watch it snakey if you take on markbivvy you take on me as well he's a mate.

 

Mind you depending on your size i might hold him for you :P:P:P:rolleyes: :thumbs:

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<<<<humbely appologises :*)

 

noew its all cleared up though i would say that the best thing you could do is contact Steve Pope formerly of venom as he is back up and running, though at limited capacity at the moment :thumbs:

 

the second best option, as long as your not in a hurry to do this, would be to contact Maccari over in the states as i have heard nothing but good things about his spring kits for UK rifles (sub 12F/lbs).

 

I shall try and find a link to his web site, postage costs are a lot cheaper than you might think.

 

ROB :rolleyes:

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Erm.....just to point out..........that venomising your current rifle can also take it over the 12lb limit......

 

My tx200hc has had to be played with to bring it down after switching the original spring and gear to "tune" it.

 

My reason,,,,,,,,to make it smoother in the shooting. Yes indeed switching to a venom kit has made it smoother, but it was originaly doing 11.3 to 11.6 lb/ft. Putting the venom kit has taken it over, and with me not being FAC'd, my boy has had to take the power down.

 

I dont play with the internals, I leave that down to the people in the know. But if you want your stock spraying, then give me a shout......

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Erm.....just to point out..........that venomising your current rifle can also take it over the 12lb limit......

this not only applies to venom tune up but also to any rifle that has had a spring replaced or any other internal work done to it. Due to parts needing to bed in, after they have bedded in they need to be fine tuned and again need to be able to bed in. Tuneing a spring rifle can take a lot of time and effort

 

This is why i leave all my spring rifles well alone as long as they are accurate and legal

 

ROB :rolleyes:

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You can start right from the beginning, treat me like an idiot and take it from there.

............. and we did.

 

No only joking!

 

I hope this can all be finished now as banging it back and forth is going to get people flared up with no chance of it ending nicely.

 

Assumptions were made and frustration occured but we have got over that so let's just talk guns, that's what we are here for!

 

The best pellets for my old HW57 were HT Field Trophy. They were the bobbins. It HATED RWS superdomes and was decent on Accupels. Hull cartridge suggested the HtFT's so that's where I started from.

 

Hope this helps.

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  • 3 years later...

Don't get an OX spring, go on chambers website, buy one of their non-fac tuning kits (standard kit) then follow the instuctions, after get a cronograph and check to make sure it's under 12ft LB if it isn't cut one of the coils off, try again then repeat the process until under 12ft LB their kits are great.

 

 

If you want to spend the extra money Steve Pope of v-Mach does some great kits

 

and it's worth giving the HW80 a going over, as they are good rifles, it should if the tuning kit is fitted correctly make a good rifle even better.

 

Oh don't forget to be careful, if in doubt of your abilities get a qaulified gunsmith or competent person, who is used to fitting tuning kits, or working with Air Rifles lots of preload in Air Rifles :D

Edited by evilstoat
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orite could any body tell me iv got a screw on silencer just wonderin if they is anyway getting it on to hw80 is they any adapters for them

 

Best thing to do is to start a thread with the title " how do i get a silencer on my HW80" :D

 

the people on here are quite helpful and will give you some good advice

 

You can buy and adapter goto the sponsors website and have a look if no luck there chambers do them i believe

 

push fit unf adapter with grub screw to secure it

Edited by evilstoat
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  • 9 years later...

Nobody seems to have addressed the question.

I have an HW80K and I love it. In my opinion, the following is all you need to do:-

1) dismantle (see YouTube). The trigger block may need a hell of a whack to start it turning on the thread, then when it approaches the end of its travel, brace hard against something for the last turn or two - just in case.

2) clean spring, interior of compression chamber, piston, everything. Get the grease gunge OFF. Including the trigger. Just wipe it - enough will stay on to provide lubrication for years.

3) de-burr (smooth off the inside edges) of the slots in the compression chamber - use wet and dry paper

4) Source/buy a tight fitting spring guide and a top hat (failing both, the top hat only and retain the original spring guide)

5) - this is optional but a good thing to do - fit a piston 'short stroke extension'. Tinbum Tuning do one at modest cost. Alternatively, don't bother.

6) Re-use the original Weihrauch spring. Virtually every other replacement (excepting probably V-Mach) is highly likely to take the rifle above the legal limit, especially the Titan mainsprings, as their recommended springs for any model puts them firmly well into FAC territory, unless you shorten them. The Weihrauch springs are GREAT.

7) lubricate everything INSIDE the piston (spring, spring guide, top hat surfaces) with sparingly applied Molybdenum Sulphide grease (Halfords). Put the thinnest smearing of same on the exterior of the piston. Lubricate the (clean) piston seal around the edge with a really fine film of fully synthetic car engine oil. Take care to get NO lubricant on the front of the (clean) piston seal.

😎 Re-assemble and enjoy. If you have added a short stroke extension it will have effectively increased the spring preload as well as reducing the swept compression volume, so be prepared to have to tension the spring harder to start the trigger block in its retaining thread. The combination of the reduced swept volume and the increased preload will put things pretty much back where they were, power wise. My experience tells me that overall, probably the most vital component you can add is the top hat. That, combined with a tighter spring guide, will alone change the shooting experience. 

I recommend that you check the velocity of the pellets fired - try several different weights - to confirm that the rifle remains below the UK legal maximum ft.lbs. output. You will also be able to check how consistently the rifle is now shooting from the fps speed over several shots.

I have 'short-stroked' HW95s and HW80s. My conclusion is that the larger diameter, longer compression stroke of the HW80 benefits from doing so, whereas the smaller diameter, shorter compression stroke of the HW95 does not. I also believe any break-barrel Weihrauch works better in .22 calibre than in .177.

Doing the above will teach you about the rifle and show you what is important to make it function at its best. It will save you heaps of money by not falling for 'black art' tuning companies - and your rifle will shoot very nicely indeed.

 

 

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