Jump to content

.243 Fox rifle - Tikka T3 ?


Ballie
 Share

Recommended Posts

  • Replies 55
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Top Posters In This Topic

Tikka straight.

Don't bother with lite & stainless, if you want to shoot long, you need the mass.

You dont "need" stainless or lightweight, you do need as good a scope as you can possible afford.

I put a Swarovski on mine and was shooting 4" groups straight out of the box and just boresighted using factors Feds.

Its a great gun in its own right and not a "poor man's anything".

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Two of my m8s were coming in from the other side of the wood they knew whare I was going to be give or take 50m and I knew whare they were coming from before the safty sermon starts.

But did you know where the bullet was going AFTER it had passed through the deer ? :rolleyes:

 

The barrel on my "foxing rifle" is stainless for one reason..... ease of cleaning. I tend to end up up to my neck in mud and **** trying to get a safe shot at a fox. i don't always have time to clean my rifle when i get home or indeed the next morning. (its got a synthetic stock too :thumbs: ) My deer stalking rifle doesn't have a stainless barrel

 

 

:D;)

In to a safe and seen back stop or the shot is not taken. Is ther any other way?

 

What ever you choose to get dude good luck with it.

 

Dave

Link to comment
Share on other sites

The 'practicalities' are if my plastic and stainless Tikka are that it can get soaked through I can stick it in the cabinet when I get home and not ever bother cleaning it if I don't feel feel like it - try that with wood and blue and there will be tears before bedtime....

Exactly :rolleyes:

Link to comment
Share on other sites

The 'practicalities' are if my plastic and stainless Tikka are that it can get soaked through I can stick it in the cabinet when I get home and not ever bother cleaning it if I don't feel feel like it - try that with wood and blue and there will be tears before bedtime....

:thumbs: Does this mean that they never rust when taken swiming ect?? :rolleyes:

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Are these (Schmidt & Bender Hungarian 8x56 1" tube) any good? and is 8x mag ok?

 

I thought I would be better getting a mag or around 12 - 15 times any views on this would be helpful.

 

I do have a Swarovski 6 x 42 on my sako rim fire .22LR (a bit over the top I agree) If I thought I could get away with putting this 6x42 on my .243 it could save me some money, I could then buy a cheap scope for the rimfire but I thought I would need more mag for my .243 foxing.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Are these (Schmidt & Bender Hungarian 8x56 1" tube) any good? and is 8x mag ok?

 

I thought I would be better getting a mag or around 12 - 15 times any views on this would be helpful.

 

I do have a Swarovski 6 x 42 on my sako rim fire .22LR (a bit over the top I agree) If I thought I could get away with putting this 6x42 on my .243 it could save me some money, I could then buy a cheap scope for the rimfire but I thought I would need more mag for my .243 foxing.

8x is perfect............for me anyway, as i don't shoot much over 300 yards.

 

You can still shoot foxes or deer with 8x mag at close range.

Some people prefer variable but i prefer fixed....each to their own tho eh

 

 

Get a swaro 8x56, thats what i got on my foxing rifle and it is a good bit of kit. :rolleyes: :thumbs: :D

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Stainless, should be just that Frank, but it is an alloy so it would depend on how high the chrome content is.

 

My Tikka doesn't with any amount of water on it, but....

 

It will mark if i touch the barrels and don't wipe it off, I have what mechanical engineers refer to as 'rusty fingers' (bit like dog with a wet nose, but a heart of gold :rolleyes: )

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Is it true about the stainless steel then, not rusting when it gets wet?

How long before it does rust, if you dont clean it?

Cheers.

My rifle hasn't rusted at all and i've had it a few years. Over the years it has been mistreated and if it hadn't been stainless then i reckon it would look a terrible by now. I've left it covered on blood, mud water etc. and it still looks good when it's clean. Try getting blood on a blued barrel and see what happens :rolleyes:

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Is it true about the stainless steel then, not rusting when it gets wet?

How long before it does rust, if you dont clean it?

Cheers.

My rifle hasn't rusted at all and i've had it a few years. Over the years it has been mistreated and if it hadn't been stainless then i reckon it would look a terrible by now. I've left it covered on blood, mud water etc. and it still looks good when it's clean. Try getting blood on a blued barrel and see what happens :rolleyes:

Thanks Miffy. :thumbs: If and when i get my 6.5 x 55, i might just go for a stainless.

 

Ballie, the best of luck with what ever you get mate, happy shopping. :D

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Thanks Miffy. :rolleyes: If and when i get my 6.5 x 55, i might just go for a stainless.

Is it just me or does the 6.5 x 55 bullet look stoopid.

I'm not knocking it at all as it's a nice round to shoot and it does the biz.

 

 

I don't think i would go for a stainless stalking rifle frank. My stalking rifle isn't stainless and the only reason i have a stainless rifle is because of the **** my foxing rifle tends to get covered in. Synthetic stock is a must aswell for me.

I will be buying a sauer outback in .243 as my next foxing rifle. I'll keep the Remmy VSSF tho for times when its wet.

 

I'm also after a .17HMR. any suggestions for a good rifle???

Link to comment
Share on other sites

.

 

I'm also after a .17HMR. any suggestions for a good rifle???

Anschutz and CZ are very good in my opinion, the Anschutz, if you have the dosh and the CZ if you havent. Both as good as each other in my opinion. :rolleyes:

Now thats the makes of rifle i know about, do not own a 17hmr, so have no experience on what they are like, but from all that i have read on hear and various other sites, its the dogs wotsits. :thumbs:

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Perhaps it has been said, if it has then I missed it.

 

Stainless barrels are supposed to stand up to hot loads a lot better.

 

The rifling just in front of the chamber is supposed to withstand the heat associated with fast cartridges a lot better in a stainless barrel.

 

All the trouble with Sako and Tikka stainless barrels and actions bursting has been sorted out!

Edited by rjimmer
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Perhaps it has been said, if it has then I missed it.

 

Stainless barrels are supposed to stand up to hot loads a lot better.

 

The rifling just in front of the chamber is supposed to withstand the heat associated with fast cartridges a lot better in a stainless barrel.

Thats probably why my "barrel burning" .22/250 is still one hole grouping after approx 2000 hot loads through it then :thumbs: :rolleyes:

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Is it true about the stainless steel then, not rusting when it gets wet?

How long before it does rust, if you dont clean it?

Cheers.

Stainless Steel comes in different grades .............The Grade used for barrel manufacturing in my guess must be extremely high and from out of the top draw and therefore will have High Corrosion Resistant properties..........Unlike some lower grades

 

Also it was the case 25 years ago that the best produced Stainless in the World came from the Scandinavian Countries ........Mainly Sweden :thumbs: I think this is STILL the case to-day :rolleyes:

 

Ive :D

Link to comment
Share on other sites

The whole point in stainless is that it.. doesnt stain. Also this means you can leave it underwater without rust risk problems for a good long time.

 

High grade stainless is simply more hard wearing.. its not that lower grade stainless wil rust. Otherwise its not stainless :lol:

 

I made a rifle trigger a while ago from a decent 'high grade' peice of bar, and it took a hell of a lot of work to form. I couldnt even scratch it with a scribe, im not kidding.

It will certainly out live the gun its on.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I made a rifle trigger a while ago from a decent 'high grade' peice of bar, and it took a hell of a lot of work to form. I couldnt even scratch it with a scribe, im not kidding.

Which is why they can’t make barrels out of it, it’s too hard and would ****** up the machinery. Sulphur has to be added to the steel in order to soften it so that it can be machined.

Not too long ago Sako had a batch of stainless barrels that exploded on them due to having too much sulphur added. :lol:

I have an Anschutz 1913 .22 match rifle that has a carbon steel barrel and it is still shooting tight groups after 18 years, and @ 80,000 rounds through it. If I wanted a replacement barrel, I would not be able to get it re-barrelled in this country with a carbon barrel, and would have to have a stainless one. I have many shooting friends who have had stainless barrel fitted to their target rifles only to find that they are not lasting more than 6-7 years (@ 35,000 rounds) before they are losing accuracy. The reason is because the stainless barrels are actually softer than the original carbon ones.

Personally I prefer black barrels, but then again I like Walnut stocks as well. :lol:

G.M.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Guest
This topic is now closed to further replies.
 Share

  • Recently Browsing   0 members

    • No registered users viewing this page.

×
×
  • Create New...