boiled linseed oil and gunstocks

[Gonna Shoot a Wabbit]

Dear pigeonwatch faithful hope you help.

 

I have used boiled linseed oil to keep the stocks of my guns and rifles in good order for a long time. However it has been prone now and again to stickiness on the woodwork from a little over application.

 

I heard recently that you can mix the oil with white spirit to avoid this problem? has anyone heard of this and if it is right what proportion of oil and spirit would you recommend.

 

rgds

 

Adrian

[HDF]

If you're using straight linseed oil it just needs to dry for a long time to avoid it going sticky, but cutting it about 2 parts oil and 1 part white spirit lets it soak in deeper, then the white spirit evaporates leaving just the oil, so it penetrates better, just leave it till it's touch dry then go over with wire wool, and do it a couple of times. Maybe doing a neat coat of oil to finish it off.

[Rifleman01]

Boiled Linseed Oil was used as a stock dressing by the Military and civilian shooters for centuries. The BLO of today is however, different from that used in past centuries. Todays BLO is treated with chemicals rather than heat treated and filtered, and I would seriously recommend that you leave it alone.

 

There are literally dozens of 'Oil Finishes' available to the gun owner whether he is oiling an old gun stock or finishing a new one.

 

Be aware the modern Polyurethane and plastic spray finishes do not react well to an application of oil. A good quality Walnut stock deserved the best oil finish you can afford, sadly many of the less expensive firearms on the market today have cheap Beech Wood stocks that are just stained to look like a different timber.

 

None of these is as good as a properly seasoned Walnut stock but they cost a lot of 'Lolly' I know I've just purchased some Walnut from the USA, just enough to stock a single shot rifle or shotgun, the wood alone cost over £200.00. Believe me when I say that was damn cheap, some of the highly figured blanks cost several thousands of pounds, and that's before a single tool has touched them.

 

Harry

[Imperfection]

I've refurbished the stock on my 1944 Mauser with BLO and it has had a whopping 17 coats-albeit thin ones.Despite it drying quicker than normal linseed oil it still needs time to dry in a warm place,but be aware that the more coats you apply the longer each take to dry.If its still sticky few days after last coat put it in the airing cupboard for 2-3 days as this will do the trick.

 

Also,dont know how you're applying it,but the best method is using your fingers.Pour a little on your fingers and slowly work it into the wood.It heats the oil up,makes it more workable and stops you from applying too much at a time.

[Beretta28g]

I use turpentine with the linseed oil, in my opinion it dries quicker.

[vampire]

I use tru oil

[steve_b_wales]

I use tru oil

 

 

+1. Brilliant stuff!

[westy1946]

I have used "Tru oil" and now use "Danish oil". I found that even applying with fingers "Tru oil" somtimes curtained and it meant extra work flating out, but "Danish oil" is a lot thinner consistancy and it was absorbed quicker even on the 3rd. 4th. coat

[olly321]

i always use danish oil you get a better finish

[Paddy Galore!]

If you add terebine driers it'll help, you can find this at most paint suppliers,it cuts down drying time for oil based paints and such like, works well with oils. You'll need about a capful for a pint of oil, add thinners aswell if you want, this will help evaporation.

[johnbaz]

Hi

 

I used to use boiled linseed oil with varying results which ranged from superb to a never drying sticky mess

 

I really don't know why the vast differences occured when I did everything in the same fashion

 

Anyhow, I found a chap over on the UK Chinese airgun forum called welshwilly that sold a stock refinishing kit, I bought one and it turned out to be smashing..

 

Here are the results of his kit that I used..

 

My Original mod45 which had a factory finish which was basically a yellow laquer that showed no grain whatsoever..

 

 

My mate's 410 shottie stocks..

 

The next ones to receive the treatment..

Original mod50 that I recently got working again..

 

Lincoln Jeffries stock (I don't have an action for this yet )

 

 

John

[Towngun]

I purchase spray stock oil from a gun shop which subsequently gummed up and proved useless. It was however expensive. I goggled the contents and hey presto it proved to be another name for Danish Oil, which is as cheap as chips! I now use both Danish Oil and Tung Oil, the latter requires more work over time. My theory is that part of the value of a Best London Gun is the man hours spent in its preparation. You may not have the money to own such a gun but you can upgrade your own over time by the slow hand application of such treatments. If you enjoy fine guns it's also therapeutic to apply and the results are rewarding.

Edited July 5, 2012 by Towngun