Jump to content

Hawke 4_9x40 Mil Dot HD, SCOPE.


Pot shot XL
 Share

Recommended Posts

I have bought a BSA Lightning XL with the above mentioned Scope and can't seem to Zero it, checked the mount, OK, checked the Scope, seemed ok but it does not want to zero. This is the second one of these scopes I have had in 6 weeks, as the 1st one went tits up when I tried to zero it... i fitted an old Webley 4x32 on the rifle and zeroed within 20 shots....Has anyone else had problems with this type of Scope? It is maybe cos it does not like the Springer? Any advice will help...

 

Cheers

 

XL ;)

Link to comment
Share on other sites

when you say wont zero what do you mean?

 

do you mean its going all over the place?

 

or do you mena once you get it close to good it goes all over the place?

 

if your still having problems with it, i would advise taking it back to the sop etting a refund and then getting an ags scope similar price similar spec only designed for recoiling airguns.

 

all the best

 

ROB ;)

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Have you checked the mounts?

I had a problem where a pair of aluminium mounts had worked loose and the rearmost had been whacked back on to a bolt head by the recoil.

The burr raised by this was sufficient to make the within scope adjustment off-scale and I had to take a file to the mount to get the thing back on target.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I'd go with that - check all the nuts and bolts to make sure that they are tight.

 

Get in dead close on a paper target 5 yards or so and just fire 5 pellets at it whilst in the most stable position that you can get. Prone is best for this with a copy of the yellow pages behind the target.

 

If the gun won't group (pellets all over the place) then it's either the gun, the scope or you. I don't think that it would be the pellets as most rifles will fire most pellets reasonably well. You could always try a different type to see what happens.

 

If it will group then all you have to do is move the point of aim to the point of impact. Take of the turret covers and zero by group, not by pellet.

 

The arrows on the dials typicall move the point of impact to meet the point of aim. So, you keep on aiming at the same point and the group will move closer.

 

If it's 1/4 inch at 100 yards adjustment then this one click will move 1/8 inch at 50 yards or 10 clicks for 1/4 of an inch at 10 yards.

 

Zeroing at as far as possible will show up more mistakes. Go and waste some lead!

Edited by Riothedog
Link to comment
Share on other sites

. This is the second one of these scopes I have had in 6 weeks, as the 1st one went tits up when I tried to zero it...

XL

 

When trying to zero do you concentrate on getting the Elevation or windage correct first .

 

Basically lets say that you've got the elevation correct but have used 90% of the adjustment in doing so ............What happens now is that the windage adjustment is dramatically reduced ...........

 

To see what I mean cut 2 circles out of which one is 2" dia and the other 1" (to represent the inner and outer tubes of the scope )....Sit the smaller onto the larger and move up to the top to simulate the elevation adjustment mentioned above ...........See how the sideways movement has been reduced .

 

In the cheaper scopes elevation sometimes will go sideways as well as up/down and the windage up/down as well as sideways ;)

 

Solution is to shim one of the mounts up with camera film or some mounts can be adjusted for windage......... in the case of CTR Fire anyway :)

 

Ive ;)

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Its a complicated business zeroing a scope. You have to do it in this order...

 

Use a chrono to find your power

Use chairgun to find your optimum scope zero distance

Centre the reticle by rotating the scope in the bottom mounts only

Mount the scope and fire 3x at the optimum distance

Shim the mounts up/down and left/right to get as close to aim point as possible

Use the crosshairs adjusters to get the final bit of adjustment.

 

If you dont understand any of those steps ask again!!!

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Its a complicated business zeroing a scope. You have to do it in this order...

 

Use a chrono to find your power

Use chairgun to find your optimum scope zero distance

Centre the reticle by rotating the scope in the bottom mounts only

Mount the scope and fire 3x at the optimum distance

Shim the mounts up/down and left/right to get as close to aim point as possible

Use the crosshairs adjusters to get the final bit of adjustment.

 

If you dont understand any of those steps ask again!!!

Or zero in to your chosen distance, then see at what point of impact the pellets hit at different distances.

How did people manage before chairgun and computers?

 

But I will say a chrono is a good idea to stay legal.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

We managed great before chairgun! Isnt it great though, to be able to see the trajectory and understand the optimum zero range? I love it.

Oh it is good, very good. However I found I was getting too involved with it and worrying over aspects that ironed themselves out when I got out and actually shot the blooming gun!! :thumbs:

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.
Note: Your post will require moderator approval before it will be visible.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.

Loading...
 Share

  • Recently Browsing   0 members

    • No registered users viewing this page.
×
×
  • Create New...