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Zeroing scope


TaxiDriver
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This is on my sons little garden plinker,

 

Hyflier vey kindly donated a 3-9x50 scope to my son to upgrade his 4x32, I've put in on this AM and been having a plinking session this AM to try and zero it in, but its shooting low and I've adjusted the UP/Down turret to the end of its adjustment (ie, it's up as far as can go)

 

Could I fit a thin piece of packing under the scope tube in either front of back mount to change the angle of the dangle and then give me back some adjustment to fine tune ?

 

We'e talking about being an inch maybe inch & quarter low at 10-12 metres

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Yes, but think about it all first, something just isn't right, perhaps try reversing the rings and see if that makes any difference.

 

It simply does not add up, something is wrong with something somewhere! :yes::yes:

 

PS..did you centre the scope turrets before you started?

Edited by Dekers
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OK, A bit more info,

 

the rifle is an SMK Syntarg in .177 Scope is a well loved Appollo 3-9x50 which was given to us by someone off PW

 

I don't know what you mean about centering scope turrets before starting ? or how to do this ?

What's 35m ? and why would I have any lying about ?

OB clearing the barrel ? Whats OB ?

 

All I did was to take the tops of the scope mounts, remove the 4x32 and fitted the 3-9 and fit the top half of the scope rings/mounts back again.

 

I don't know if the mounts are high, mid or low but they are both the same ie a pair,

Edited by TaxiDriver
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Does the front mount have a locking pin? if so, it could have been screwed down before you put the mounts on as that would cause the scope to aim high.

 

EDIT: The locking pin is usually an allen bolt that screws a pin down from the mount to the top of the dovetail.

Edited by FalconFN
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OB= Objective Bell. Thats the big lens on the scope. Is this touching the barrel at all? I see you have gone from a 32mm OB to a 50mm OB so this could be the problem if the 32mm was already close to the barrel.

No the front OB is clear of the rifle, the 32 obviously was clearer still.

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Does the front mount have a locking pin? if so, it could have been screwed down before you put the mounts on as that would cause the scope to aim high.

 

EDIT: The locking pin is usually an allen bolt that screws a pin down from the mount to the top of the dovetail.

I cant see a locking pin (would this be to stop the mounts from creeping back along the dovetail?) the rear mount is butted against a small plate secured to the end of the dovetail at the stock end.

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Sounds like the scope is dead then. If all you did was to remove the tops of the mounts (I'm presuming that the old scope was working on it) and put the new one on, it should be fine. Should not need shimming or anything.

It won't be easily repairable by anyone other than the factory where it was made. And even then, by the time its dismantled, repaired, re-charged with N2 and posted back, it would be more financially viable just to swap the unit with a new one(which most places do under warranty) Unless we are talking Zeiss or Lupold etc.

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If we are talking a free rifle and free scope then try shimming it up a little. I did this once using a couple of circles of insulating tape around the scope.

No the scope was a kind freebie, the gun is my sons smk syntarg that I bought complete with 4x32, all I wanted to do was replace the 4x32 with something with a bit more magnification.
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Taxi, take the scope off the gun, turn the elevation turret right the way down then wind it all the way up counting the clicks as you go, do the same with the windage.

 

Turn the windage and elevation turrets in and count, until you have used half the clicks, the scope is now centered.

 

Then start you zeroing in again.

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Taxi, take the scope off the gun, turn the elevation turret right the way down then wind it all the way up counting the clicks as you go, do the same with the windage.

 

Turn the windage and elevation turrets in and count, until you have used half the clicks, the scope is now centered.

 

Then start you zeroing in again.

taa, that makes sense :good:
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Not unless you have a very high end scope!(which you don't)

Take scope off the mounts, place scope on a little mirror with 3 1p pieces to lift the scope a little off the the mirror. Shine a light down at the mirror. Look through the scope . Align the ret' and the reflection together. Scope is now centered.

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Eh?

If you are running out of travel, you can pack up the rear mount my putting a couple of slices of old film negative under the scope, thats what 35m is...35mm film.

Better than tape etc as it won't compress. This will 'move' the cross hairs down quite a bit, so you can then lower the impact point to the correct height using the 'down' on the scope :good:

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Eh?

If you are running out of travel, you can pack up the rear mount my putting a couple of slices of old film negative under the scope, thats what 35m is...35mm film.

Better than tape etc as it won't compress. This will 'move' the cross hairs down quite a bit, so you can then lower the impact point to the correct height using the 'down' on the scope :good:

Film negative ?? blimey who has that nowadays lol, seriously though that was what I was thinking, that one of the mounts could be shimmed a little to regain some adjustment back.

 

Actually its academic now, I've had a good google and have ordered a 6x40 scope & mounts which was exactly what I was looking for when I had it in mind to change the 4x32 that came on the gun.

 

Thank you everyone for the input :good:

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Also try zeroing at a longer distance (say 25m), it might be that the sight line and pellet flight have not had a chance to converge at the distance you are shooting, especsially as you are probably using a fairly high scope mount.

Thanks, Im going to start from scratch as soon as the 6x40 scope arrives.

The targets we have for my son are standard for 33 feet so fit in our garden just nicely, and the maximum range we have available SAFELY is 15 metres.

 

When I've put the new scope on we'll start with an A4 sheet of paper with a cross on it and simply plug away and adjust till we get there and then put up a target to whittle it down to as small a grouping as possible.

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does the air rifle have a suppressor? i once did some work to my rifle and knocked the suppressor very slightly! wen everything went back on the scope would noe zero in :angry: as it happend i had bent the suppressor just enough to knock the pellet of course! if this is the case the suppressor would need refitting, check for any silver marks at the end where the pellet may be taking the paint of!

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Also try zeroing at a longer distance (say 25m), it might be that the sight line and pellet flight have not had a chance to converge at the distance you are shooting, especsially as you are probably using a fairly high scope mount.

Thanks, Im going to start from scratch as soon as the 6x40 scope arrives.

The targets we have for my son are standard for 33 feet so fit in our garden just nicely, and the maximum range we have available SAFELY is 15 metres.

 

When I've put the new scope on we'll start with an A4 sheet of paper with a cross on it and simply plug away and adjust till we get there and then put up a target to whittle it down to as small a grouping as possible.

Ive got two sets of mounts one low and one set slightly taller and the new 6x40 comes with mounts which one would expect (hopefully) to be suited to the 6x40.

 

thanks again for the input everyone - Neil

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