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What chokes for clays?


Frenchieboy
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So what.....they are! I was quickly shooting in the late 40's / 50 at straw balers. My first competition shoot I was humbled with a 60/100.

 

But I also said,it depends on your goals. If your goal is to shoot as well as you can at 'straw balers' then great,you'll do well sticking with less choke. Competitions aren't for everyone and not everyone aspires to be at a high level.

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I'm not agreeing or disagreeing, I was just suggesting that we dont want clayshooting threads on PW to turn into unseemly bunfights, because the nuggets of good information get lost in all the handbag swinging that can happen in such discussions.

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shooting stars! if you are B class now and want to move up to A class next year i would recomend that you use 1/4 1/4 not 3/4 3/4. you will have a far better chance of doing it this way. once you have done that and moved on to AA class, then start getting a little more 'precise' as thats when you know what your doing.

To many people have a fixation on chokes and dont really know what each choke is capable of because their ability lets them down more than the choke ever will.

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This could be debated until the cows come home, and even longer.

It is fair to say that the most common combination of choke for sporting clays is 1/4 & 1/2, BUT, let's get a few things in order.

Many very good shots use tighter chokes and don't bother changing them, in the order of 1/2 & 3/4 or 3/4 & Full, they reason that they can then 'read' their clay breaks better. What is actually happening is they have the ability to connect with more clays than a novice with a smaller but more dense pattern, so if they hit a L to R crosser on the leftside they then know to increase their lead a little on the next shot.

With a more open choke such as 1/4, your breaks can be on the fringe of your pattern, very chippy, with no indication where your open pattern was in relation to the clay.

BUT, if we hit all off the close presentations and about 25% of the distant targets we would probably never shoot lower than a 75 ex 100.

Science and pattern testing shows that the most useful choke is 1/2 choke, it is open enough for most presentations and has enough pattern percentage for distant targets.

As said earlier Duncan Lawton is an exceptional shot with 1/2 choke and he once said to me that he is amazed how many people miss behind a target and will not get the gun moving out in front.

Perhaps a better exercise than choke changing would be to see how much lead you can give a target before you start missing in front????

Edited by Salopian
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I have recently started shooting clays. The advise I had was get your own gun, use 28g 7 1/2s fibre and if my score improves each week then I won't change anything. I will know when I get to the point where I can experiment but that is some way off. After 6 shoots my score was 20/50 but far more important I am really enjoying blasting away at defenceless clays. My choke is improved cylinder and my gun is a Webley & Scott 812 semi ( after reading a review on here). Loving it!!

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I have recently started shooting clays. The advise I had was get your own gun, use 28g 7 1/2s fibre and if my score improves each week then I won't change anything. I will know when I get to the point where I can experiment but that is some way off. After 6 shoots my score was 20/50 but far more important I am really enjoying blasting away at defenceless clays. My choke is improved cylinder and my gun is a Webley & Scott 812 semi ( after reading a review on here). Loving it!!

 

Really good to hear, keep it up! :)

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I've been advised to shoot with no multi chokes in my shotgun, just shoot threads. That way I'm not tempted to change chokes

 

Wind up right? You nearly had me there :lol:

 

No one would blast 28g of lead across choke screw threads, unless they really were intent on ******* their gun right up.

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