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To blue or not to blue


il cacciatore
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Just bought a Winchester 1200. It is in fine condition but a previous owner has let the barrel go slightly rusty on the outside with the bore in very fine condition. Its been lightly sanded with a fine grade sandpaper to get rid of the rust.

 

As I bought this as a cheap 'work' gun ie. a gun that I dont need to worry about getting broken/scratched/scraped etc. then it will do me fine as is. BUT everytime I look at the barrel like this I feel that something must be done to make it look better.

 

I've heard that there are 're-blueing' kits out there. Has anyone tried them and are they worth while? Anything else I could consider doing? How can I tell how old the gun is?

 

Thanks very much.

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you wouldnt get a good match on the edges of the touch up and would probably make it look worse than it currently is.

 

If you want a good looking barrel the best way is a full re blue from someone who knows what they are doing. Expensive but the only sure way to get a good quality blue.

 

The kits are good for small touch ups or for blueing new pieces of metal (parts), but difficult to get a very nice finish with. The finish also comes off very easily with these blueing kits.

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Hard work if you ask me. :/

First job would be to sand the barrel down so you have bare metal, this is the most important part. You have to get a mirror finish, so work with very fine paper.

When you get that, you are then ready for the blueing process. Make sure you read the instructions a few times so you know what to do without refering to the instructions. Time is of the essence to get an even finish.

 

Good luck :/

 

(nope i wouldn't do it again)

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I was told you can NEVER get a factory finish with a DIY blue kit as the Factories use either Arsenic or Syanide (spelling) in the process :/

 

There are people who do Blueing on a barrel for about £50 which I think is a fair price.

 

I was just going to get MY action case hardened for free by my brother in law :/

 

He works restoring steam trains and has lots of cool toys at work :look:

 

There is a Lad on the BBS does Blueing and i think ISP do blueing too but not sure on prices???

 

LG

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you wouldnt get a good match on the edges of the touch up and would probably make it look worse than it currently is.

 

If you want a good looking barrel the best way is a full re blue from someone who knows what they are doing. Expensive but the only sure way to get a good quality blue.

 

The kits are good for small touch ups or for blueing new pieces of metal (parts), but difficult to get a very nice finish with. The finish also comes off very easily with these blueing kits.

Dunganick is exactly right.

 

I have a friend of mine who does blueing for the trade, and the blueing from "Do it yourself kits" simply rubs off without too much effort if it is in a place that is in contact with anything.

 

It you do want to go down this road you have to get a mirror finish, and this is best achieved by using a buff on a polishing wheel - this is how the trade do it, and I have done 100's of barrels in the past.

 

Then completely degrease it, and away you go.

 

But, it will never be as good as trade blueing, and it is impossible to blend in the kit blueing with an area that is already blued.

 

Don

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Is the trade re-blueing a more hard wearing finish? Do the trade use a blueing kit or do they do it with heat?

 

  Cheap work gun+no-mar guntape = Happy Italian

 

Good idea that. :/

 

I read on an American website that a 1300 multicoke barrel will go straight onto the 1200.

Edited by il cacciatore
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Just put up some pictures of the sanding.

Winchester Barrel

 

The bolt looks kind of dull too, was thinking I could polish it up but dont know the type of metal so dont know what the ultimate result will be. Could paint it black I guess but think the paint will end up flaking off.

Winchester bolt

 

Please excuse the photochopping, need to practice with it.

Edited by il cacciatore
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i wouldnt bother mate. I dont know what you paid for the gun, but just leave it as it is and call it a working gun.

 

This No Mar tape is good stuff, and was on a shotgun i recently bought, came off with no problem and didnt leave any sticky stuff.

 

The blueing quality on that gun dosent look amazing from the pictures (quite dull) and i suspect the blueing kits would bring up the new patch too bright and mirror like. But trust me they would rub off in no time anyway.

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Is a crying shame to see those sanding marks on the barrel ???

 

I use a fine grade steel wool and plenty 3 in 1 oil to stop it marking the barrel.

 

I was thinking of getting one of mine powder coated as it only costs around £50 for the whole gun but i just oiled it instead.

 

Too much hard work bunging up the breech barrel and bolt etc etc for the powder coating :oops:

 

If the A5 don't sell it's exactly what i will do with that to get some kind of idea what it will look like incase i need to do it in future ???

 

LG

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You would need to mask up any areas which you don't want coated, an electric charge is put through the meatl which makes the powder stick and it is then baked to make the powder melt into a plastic coating.

 

I personally wouldn't bother doing anything to your auto. just use it and enjoy the shooting

 

Cheers

 

Martin

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Less than a day

 

I took my Bike frame to the Bead Blasters and they blasted it and then dropped the frame at the coaters on the morning after

 

Frame was done by the afternoon :oops:

 

As i say i am thinking of asking them if they will do one of my Semis for me ???

 

Will need to strip it down and take the receiver and barrel down

 

Also have to ask them if it needs sand blasted as if so i have to bung the breech and muzzle of the barrel.

 

Easy enough just an old cork will do the muzzle and the breech i will tape over as i dont want powder on the bit that slides into the receiver or it wont fit ???

 

Will be a totally bespoke gun ???

 

LG

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Cheers Coupe

 

I found one in Blyth called Turnbulls and have asked for a quote as they do Derusting and degreasing as well as electroplating.

 

I will weigh up the cost of the Electro plating and the Powder coating and see which is a cheaper option.

 

The electro plating i would assume would be harder to keep out of areas i didn't want it in as it is a liquid they use ???

 

And as you know liquids tend to get everywhere :oops:

 

At least with the powdercoating it's more controlable.

 

The gun is stripped ready i gutted it in minuets (first time ??? ) i only hope i remember how it goes back together ???

 

LG

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