TaxiDriver Posted June 19, 2011 Report Share Posted June 19, 2011 My mum has asked me if it's possible (and legal) to have her guttering plumbed into the soil stack (I think thats what its called) I know you can't put soil water(sewerage) into a surface/rain water drain but what about the other way around? The reason being is that my mothers house is a semi detached property and the guttering for both houses has one downpipe which is on the neighbours property and because of a combination of lack of upkeep and volume of rain at times this leads to it blocking and causing my mothers guttering to overflow and cascade across the back of her house. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mark@mbb Posted June 19, 2011 Report Share Posted June 19, 2011 Why dont you put another downspout on your mothers side into the drain and it will act as an overflow Mark Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Diceman Posted June 19, 2011 Report Share Posted June 19, 2011 I don't know for sure but I think that as this would effectively allow the soil stack to vent out of the gutter, which probably won't be the correct height above the windows, you might have a problem unless there is some sort of trap in place. Might also open you up to an extra charge from the water board for handling the excess water. Suggest you ask them for a definitive answer? (without giving them your address just in case!) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TaxiDriver Posted June 19, 2011 Author Report Share Posted June 19, 2011 Why dont you put another downspout on your mothers side into the drain and it will act as an overflow Mark Because that would entail digging up the patio/rear garden, and even then the only drain available on her property is the soil pipe/stack. The top of the soil stack is only a few inches above the guttering, however the guttering could be let into the soil stack about 6-8 feet above there the toilet waste pipe joins the stack. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mark@mbb Posted June 19, 2011 Report Share Posted June 19, 2011 On a 1930's property the drains were combined and the fowl and the surface water are the same drain it would be better to put a gulley at the bottom of the svp and this would cure all the problems and you would not get any problems of the loacal building control Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TaxiDriver Posted June 19, 2011 Author Report Share Posted June 19, 2011 Mums house is built circa 1964. Sorry don't know what you mean by a 'gulley at bottom of the SVP' The downpipe for the guttering that serves both my mums house and the neighbours goes into the ground at the neighbours end of the house. She was asking about seperating her run of guttering from next doors and putting her outlet into the soil stack as there is no drain at rear of her property. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mark@mbb Posted June 19, 2011 Report Share Posted June 19, 2011 If there is a soil stack there is a drain at the bottom you can break into the drain and connect a new section of pipe and put a gulley in to take a new downspout of your mums gutter if it isnt going to overflow a lot you could just let it spit onto the ground but this could be dangerous for your mum if she goes into the garden during the winter if you were nearer mate i would of come around and shown you what to do Mark Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TaxiDriver Posted June 19, 2011 Author Report Share Posted June 19, 2011 Why do I need to go to the hassle though of breaking into concrete to get into where the soil stack goes into the ground when I could connect into the stack using a saddle type arrangement similar to how the kitchen and bath & bathroom sink are connected. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mark@mbb Posted June 19, 2011 Report Share Posted June 19, 2011 It wouldnt be allowed building control would make you remove it it would restrict the gasses coming out of the svp Mark Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ack-ack Posted June 19, 2011 Report Share Posted June 19, 2011 Mums house is built circa 1964. Sorry don't know what you mean by a 'gulley at bottom of the SVP' The downpipe for the guttering that serves both my mums house and the neighbours goes into the ground at the neighbours end of the house. She was asking about seperating her run of guttering from next doors and putting her outlet into the soil stack as there is no drain at rear of her property. Soil Vent Pipe - svp. The fall on my gutters are all out of kilter and I've run one into the svp to save having to go through and lift a whole sides worth. I see it as a bonus as the fall on the foul drain is very sllght and the drains get a good swish out when it rains. One day no doubt there will be a biblical downpour and my garden will be full of ****. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Fisherman Mike Posted June 19, 2011 Report Share Posted June 19, 2011 (edited) You could do it but you would need to get permission from whichever Water Authority has adopted the Foul Drainage rising main which is normally in the road. Some Authorities allow combined sewer as the rainwater flushes the foulwater. However they would normally make an assesment of the capacity of the existing foul run and its gradient and the incidence of rainfall in your area. if you connected into the stack it would have to be at the lowest point possible, the connection would need to be trapped and have an access piece and the Outlet at the gutter would need a leaf guard. It would probably be more trouble than its worth and I doubt if the Water Authority would grant permission. You would probably be better off replacing the gutter and installing a new downpipe with a soakaway. However in this instance with a semi detached property with a shared gutter you neighbour has a legal responsibility to maintain the rainwater system and if the lack of maintenance is causing damage you could pursue them for damages. Personally I would try the more cordial approach of a cup of tea I am assuming the properties are privately owned and not rented from the LA. If they are ring the councils maintenance team. Be careful ACk Ack if a blockage in the rising main is ever traced back to storm water debris entering the foul system from your property you could be hit with some massive maintenance and repair charges from the WA. I would keep quiet about it if I were you and make sure your outlets have all got Balloon guards fitted. Edited June 19, 2011 by Fisherman Mike Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TaxiDriver Posted June 19, 2011 Author Report Share Posted June 19, 2011 OK Mark, thanks for that. Guess its a Question for the water co and building control at the local council. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
utectok Posted June 20, 2011 Report Share Posted June 20, 2011 Mains or septic tank? I wouldn't do it on a septic tank system and on a mains sewer you'd probably not be allowed? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jacksdad Posted June 20, 2011 Report Share Posted June 20, 2011 I added a running outlet as my house didn't have one either. I wanted the rainwater for my garden and simply added the outlet, downspout and a rainwater butt: why don't you do the same? If she doesn't do any gardening you would have to run the water off and pour down the drain to stop it overflowing as required, but its all legal and dead easy Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
-Mongrel- Posted June 20, 2011 Report Share Posted June 20, 2011 (edited) I wanted the rainwater for my garden and simply added the outlet, downspout and a rainwater butt ...you would have to run the water off and pour down the drain to stop it overflowing as required, but its all legal and dead easy Alternatively, you could run the overflow pipe from the water butt out onto the garden, much easier to do as it's only a 3/4" pipe. If it causes 'bogginess' it's easy enough to dig out a soakaway to deal with it. Edited June 20, 2011 by -Mongrel- Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TaxiDriver Posted June 20, 2011 Author Report Share Posted June 20, 2011 To answer a couple of points raised above by different people: The property is privately owned so no help from Local Authority. Adjoining property is owned by an indian landlord who spends nothing on maintenance and lets the house out room by room basis to local Nigerians, Eastern Europeans etc etc and the place is generally in a state of disrepair. There's no drains at the rear of mums house so the only option might be to dig a soakaway, which no doubt comes under building controls as to how deep, how far from house etc etc. Thank You for the contributions to all who've responded. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Asa Bear Posted June 20, 2011 Report Share Posted June 20, 2011 If the property is circa 1964 I am presuming you have a down pipe at the front of your property servicing his guttering. Write a letter to the landlord asking him to maintain his property as it is affecting your mother's property. Point out that you maintain your property & that the down pipe on your side is in good working order. Give him a reasonable time scale to complete the works say fourteen days. If the work is not completed write to him again informing him you will instruct a contractor at his expense. If he refuses to pay inform him you will see him in the small claims court. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
al4x Posted June 20, 2011 Report Share Posted June 20, 2011 There's no drains at the rear of mums house so the only option might be to dig a soakaway, which no doubt comes under building controls as to how deep, how far from house etc etc. really this is the easiest option, personally I wouldn't notify BC for it as its only rainwater not foul water drains. If hers goes into the main drains via the neighbours then removing into a soakaway does entitle you to a rebate on her water bill. The pros are its really not that hard to do and it can be done DIY in a weekend. However before you do anything else have you checked that the gutter isn't blocked or a joints not worked loose, its rare to back all the way up to the second floor roof level. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
stokie Posted June 20, 2011 Report Share Posted June 20, 2011 I have already run my gutter into the soil stack and allowed it to vent into gutter . It's been like that for 10 years . I have never been pulled on it or had any issues with smell venting through . The reason I did it was when I bought the house it had a large garage built on the side and some numpty had the house gutter running onto garage flat roof which then ran via downspout onto neighbours drive . Along with all the gravel from flat roof . This was the best and cheapest option as I also have no surface water grids on my property . I didn't want to run into a soakaway for fear of washing the footings away Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gimlet Posted June 20, 2011 Report Share Posted June 20, 2011 I assume this is an urban property in which case it is very unlikely to have a septic tank. Unless you live next to the sea or a natural waterway most storm water goes into the main drain system. If you dig a soakaway it must be 6 metres away from the house foundations and those of any neighbouring building. Depth and capacity depends on square meterage of roof draining into it and composition of substrate- what the ground is like, sand, clay, gravel shale etc. If its clay, forget it. If you're prepared to go to the trouble of digging a soakaway just break out the ground at the base of the soil pipe, cut into the drain with a swept junction and a sliding collar and connect to a trapped gulley; that is a little drainage chamber with a grill on top that contains a water trap to prevent debris and silt from entering the sewer. Even if you have to break up and make good concrete this sounds like about half a days work. If you've never done any drainage work before and don't know what any of the above means don't dive in with guesswork; you might cause your mother more problems than a leaking gutter. Consult someone local within the trade who can show you, and if you only want his know-how and not his labour give him a drink for his trouble and do it yourself. PS Ack Ack, sewers should have a fall of 1:40 (25mm in a metre) so everything floats away gently. Too much fall and the water races away and leaves the solids high and dry causing a blockage, particularly with toilet paper. Your drains are normal, they don't need extra water to flush then out. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ack-ack Posted June 20, 2011 Report Share Posted June 20, 2011 PS Ack Ack, sewers should have a fall of 1:40 (25mm in a metre) so everything floats away gently. Too much fall and the water races away and leaves the solids high and dry causing a blockage, particularly with toilet paper. Your drains are normal, they don't need extra water to flush then out. If my drains are normal then why do I find myself having to rod my own **** and that of family and guests from the drains every six months!!! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Evil Elvis Posted June 21, 2011 Report Share Posted June 21, 2011 The answer is technically no, something about overloading the sewers, but i havbe a 1920'S house and thats exactly how it was done, when i rennewed it all a few years ago I did it the same, and when the man from the council came round to give me the ok for the extension I had built he didnt give it a second glance, on the upside, my neighbours drains used to block regularly as they put lots of dog poop down it, i told them how mine was constructed and they copied it...no more blocked drains!! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
100milesaway Posted June 21, 2011 Report Share Posted June 21, 2011 (edited) A ladder and some wedges would seem to me the most logical solution. Up the ladder and raise your gutters with the wedges dramatically. Problem solved, they get all the excess on their end. Bet he soon comes around to clear his gutters out.from Auntie Edited June 21, 2011 by 100milesaway Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gimlet Posted June 21, 2011 Report Share Posted June 21, 2011 If my drains are normal then why do I find myself having to rod my own **** and that of family and guests from the drains every six months!!! Sorry to hear that. Your drains may have too little fall. More likely is a slump in the pipe caused by settlement or a high spot usually caused by roots. Clay sewers are susceptible to both problems. If the flow is interrupted by high or low spots a large volume of water will flush them through but solids will settle back in that spot and sooner or later your bound to get a blockage. If you have chambers on your property you can lift the lid and identify which section has the problem. The only solution then is to dig up that section and relay it. If there are no chambers you'll have to find the location of the blockage by noting how many rods you screw on before it is cleared. If you do dig a section up you need to dig up at least a 2m length to make sure you're restoring the correct average fall. If you can trace the problem to a section that is off your property I believe the owner whether private or local authority is obliged to fix it. But I'm not certain. The CAB or Environmental Health will be able to tell you. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ack-ack Posted June 21, 2011 Report Share Posted June 21, 2011 Sorry to hear that. Your drains may have too little fall. More likely is a slump in the pipe caused by settlement or a high spot usually caused by roots. Clay sewers are susceptible to both problems. If the flow is interrupted by high or low spots a large volume of water will flush them through but solids will settle back in that spot and sooner or later your bound to get a blockage. If you have chambers on your property you can lift the lid and identify which section has the problem. The only solution then is to dig up that section and relay it. If there are no chambers you'll have to find the location of the blockage by noting how many rods you screw on before it is cleared. If you do dig a section up you need to dig up at least a 2m length to make sure you're restoring the correct average fall. If you can trace the problem to a section that is off your property I believe the owner whether private or local authority is obliged to fix it. But I'm not certain. The CAB or Environmental Health will be able to tell you. Reckon you hit the nail on the head there Gimlet. My grandfather planted a row of apple trees far closer than he should have to the course of the foul. He sadly passed on in 1993 but every time I'm smeared in feculant matter as I rod that ******* run I think of him. Its a rip out job but the trees produce the best apples ever and they'll have to go for sure in the process. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Join the conversation
You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.
Note: Your post will require moderator approval before it will be visible.