Shooting Tom Posted December 13, 2011 Report Share Posted December 13, 2011 As a general guide. Divide the distance from end of barrel to pigeon by the wind speed in knots. multiply this by the weight of the bird divided by its altitude and pull. If the birds feeding over rape add a correction factor of 1.2. subtract .5 if using 32G of no 6. Dont worry...I never seem to hit any either. you got that wrong the correction factor is 1.3 for rape and 1.2 for wheat. that is why you are missing Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
yickdaz Posted December 13, 2011 Report Share Posted December 13, 2011 just use a correction factor of 1.25 on every crop and you won,t far go wrong Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kyska Posted December 13, 2011 Report Share Posted December 13, 2011 just use a correction factor of 1.25 on every crop and you won,t far go wrong No No No...taking the median seems sensible but doesn't help the P value. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
yickdaz Posted December 13, 2011 Report Share Posted December 13, 2011 No No No...taking the median seems sensible but doesn't help the P value. no no 1.25 supports the p value in high winds as well thought you would of known that Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
HDAV Posted December 13, 2011 Report Share Posted December 13, 2011 I don't know about measuring the lead by the length of the neck , I often give a fast crossing bird 6 feet of lead, that's a lot of pigeon necks But how about pigeons with big feet? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dastardlyandmuttly Posted December 13, 2011 Report Share Posted December 13, 2011 how about pigoens with big feet well you know what they say bout the pigoens with big feets dont you big shoose Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
humperdingle Posted December 14, 2011 Report Share Posted December 14, 2011 well you know what they say bout the pigoens with big feets dont you big shoose Softer landing? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Devon Fox Posted December 14, 2011 Report Share Posted December 14, 2011 (edited) Just zero 1" high at 100 yards Its amazing hearing guns discussing lead on shoot days, it a how long is a bit of string job Some very good math on this thread Edited December 14, 2011 by Devon Fox Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jim Sarakun Posted December 15, 2011 Report Share Posted December 15, 2011 (edited) I love this subject, and could probably write an essay on it. Like a few replies here, bum belly beak bang it is for me and the same for most who shoot where I do. I once asked all the guns where I shoot, what is it they actually see when they pull the trigger, resulting in a clean kill. When they thought about it, and whilst out with them, it was the bead on the beak, but you must start from behind the bird and follow through, this way your gun will be moving at the correct speed, same as the bird and don't stop swinging when you pull that trigger. This works up to about a 50-60 yard range, so, over your decoys and it is dead, using 28gram 6/7. Beyond that then were talking gaps. With clays it's big gaps, ask any clay shooter, and they will mention gaps of what look like to them, 4 feet and more. Bear in mind though, that the afore mentioned cartridges are only good over your decoys, take a bird beyond them and you may be in for a long walk, and that, as we all know, is when the birds will start to decoy, you out the hide chasing a runner. A couple of the shooters said that they don't think about it. One is a hot shot, one couldn't hit a barn door and is contemplating packing it in, only because he knows it all and wont take anyone else's advice. That advice is to get on the clays, because they keep on coming, and you can try stuff until you start to hit them. Shooting clays is also the best way to learn about gaps. So next time you are out, think about what you are doing, bum belly beak bang, try it and let me know how you get on. And I forgot to mention, hence the edit, that this is looking straight down the barrel. No rib should be visible, but I was assuming that your gun fits and you can mount it. Edited December 15, 2011 by Jim Sarakun Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sharpshooter.123 Posted December 15, 2011 Report Share Posted December 15, 2011 ^^^^ well said that's the only method I use and yes clays do and will help Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mpk Posted December 15, 2011 Report Share Posted December 15, 2011 Always worth remembering clays are slowing most of the time and don't jink like birds but a great tool to learn on ! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
motty Posted December 15, 2011 Report Share Posted December 15, 2011 (edited) I love this subject, and could probably write an essay on it. Like a few replies here, bum belly beak bang it is for me and the same for most who shoot where I do. I once asked all the guns where I shoot, what is it they actually see when they pull the trigger, resulting in a clean kill. When they thought about it, and whilst out with them, it was the bead on the beak, but you must start from behind the bird and follow through, this way your gun will be moving at the correct speed, same as the bird and don't stop swinging when you pull that trigger. This works up to about a 50-60 yard range, so, over your decoys and it is dead, using 28gram 6/7. Beyond that then were talking gaps. With clays it's big gaps, ask any clay shooter, and they will mention gaps of what look like to them, 4 feet and more. Bear in mind though, that the afore mentioned cartridges are only good over your decoys, take a bird beyond them and you may be in for a long walk, and that, as we all know, is when the birds will start to decoy, you out the hide chasing a runner. A couple of the shooters said that they don't think about it. One is a hot shot, one couldn't hit a barn door and is contemplating packing it in, only because he knows it all and wont take anyone else's advice. That advice is to get on the clays, because they keep on coming, and you can try stuff until you start to hit them. Shooting clays is also the best way to learn about gaps. So next time you are out, think about what you are doing, bum belly beak bang, try it and let me know how you get on. And I forgot to mention, hence the edit, that this is looking straight down the barrel. No rib should be visible, but I was assuming that your gun fits and you can mount it. I don't judge lead like that. I see daylight between every bird i shoot and the barrels - all except very close birds that you can shoot basically straight at. Alot of the time i shoot by instinct and the built in library of sight pictures, but on a long range bird i might take my time and 'weigh it up'. Edited December 15, 2011 by motty Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Catweazle Posted December 15, 2011 Report Share Posted December 15, 2011 I don't judge lead like that. I see daylight between every bird i shoot and the barrels - all except very close birds that you can shoot basically straight at. Alot of the time i shoot by instinct and the built in library of sight pictures, but on a long range bird i might take my time and 'weigh it up'. Me too, I'm always aiming where the bird will be instead of pulling through it. It works for me, although admittedly I'm nowhere near as experienced as many of the posters on this thread, so perhaps I will graduate to the BBBB method at some point. It doesn't work so well when the birds are coming directly overhead. In your estimation, how much lead are you giving to a fast flying crosser at, say, 45yds ? I'm giving at least 6 feet, I'm sure. I realise that I could be stopping or slowing the swing as I fire, so effective lead might be less. Many years ago I used to shoot on marshes, when you could use lead shot, and occasionally fired one into the mud at low tide. It was instructive to see how long the shot took to hit the mud and how big the pattern was. When I shoot now I still have that mental image of how long it took for the shot to arrive and I try to imagine how far the bird will travel in that time and aim accordingly. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Catweazle Posted December 15, 2011 Report Share Posted December 15, 2011 (edited) I just did a quick google and found this useful guide on the BASC site. http://www.basc.org.uk/en/how-to/shooting/how-much-lead-the-way-forward.cfm# From reading that, it seems I should be giving a lot more lead than I am for the farthest birds, either I'm misjudging how much lead I'm giving or I'm just catching them with the edge of the pattern. Quite an eye opener for me. Edited December 15, 2011 by Catweazle Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dastardlyandmuttly Posted December 15, 2011 Report Share Posted December 15, 2011 if you are on bout leed it is worth thinking bout the chokes youv got in the barell the patten is important when you are trying to juge the leed hope this helps yous Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Catweazle Posted December 15, 2011 Report Share Posted December 15, 2011 These are the figures from BASC website. Lead required for a slower, 35 mph, bird: * 3 feet at 25 yards * 4-5 feet at 30 yards * 6-7 feet at 40 yards * 8 at 45 yards Lead required for your typical 40 mph bird: * 4 feet at 25 yards * 5-6 feet at 30 yards * 7-8 feet at 40 yards * 9-10 at 45 yards Lead required for a faster, 50 mph, bird: Pigeon, some clays, many wildfowl * 5 feet at 25 yards * 7 feet at 30 yards * 9-10 feet at 40 yards * 12 at 45 yards Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
imissalot Posted December 15, 2011 Report Share Posted December 15, 2011 These are the figures from BASC website. Lead required for a slower, 35 mph, bird: * 3 feet at 25 yards * 4-5 feet at 30 yards * 6-7 feet at 40 yards * 8 at 45 yards Lead required for your typical 40 mph bird: * 4 feet at 25 yards * 5-6 feet at 30 yards * 7-8 feet at 40 yards * 9-10 at 45 yards Lead required for a faster, 50 mph, bird: Pigeon, some clays, many wildfowl * 5 feet at 25 yards * 7 feet at 30 yards * 9-10 feet at 40 yards * 12 at 45 yards does any one know were i can get a speed gun wot mounts on top of shot gun Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Catweazle Posted December 15, 2011 Report Share Posted December 15, 2011 does any one know were i can get a speed gun wot mounts on top of shot gun If you find one with a rangefinder let me know Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jim Sarakun Posted December 15, 2011 Report Share Posted December 15, 2011 And a tape measure, let me know... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
proTOM1 Posted December 15, 2011 Report Share Posted December 15, 2011 (edited) The only thing i will add is dont over think when it comes to lead ,ive missed more birds by thinking now this is a bit higher i will give it so on ,just pull through the bird and bang and keep the gun swinging !! Edited December 15, 2011 by proTOM1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sharpshooter.123 Posted December 16, 2011 Report Share Posted December 16, 2011 That's all good from the basc BUT every person will see lead in different ways, if your missing birds it's just about practice makes perfect, BBBB works on MOST targets unless they are further out or flying straight at you whilst dropping in to decoys where you would then fire underneath the bird, chokes are just mind boggling 1/4 and 1/2 will deal with 99% of targets as long as your putting the shot in the right place. After shooting with complete novices in the last 2 years it just shows how a little "Leed" can make a massive difference to there shooting.anyway atb all and hope the big bags come pouring in soon, happy Christmas and have a good new year Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TwoJackRussells Posted December 16, 2011 Report Share Posted December 16, 2011 Four very important things are required to have any degree of success with the average woodie, A Gun that fits (or at least a gun thats close), a fair bit of practice on the clays , the ability to Relax and not try TOO hard and the Golden Rule for ALL game ,vermin and clays make sure you keep moving the Gun , its so true that You wont hit a thing if you aint got that swing! Following the above advice from a friend who has been shooting more years than Ive been on the planet My hit rate has gone from one in ten to 7+ in ten over a year! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
humperdingle Posted December 16, 2011 Report Share Posted December 16, 2011 Four very important things are required to have any degree of success with the average woodie... the ability to Relax and not try TOO hard Very true. Very often, a few misses come before the first pigeon of a session is downed. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mike525steel Posted December 16, 2011 Report Share Posted December 16, 2011 (edited) I think you mean how much lead do you give those unexpected rockets that flip over the hedge at crazy speed If you need a bit of practice on these the there really is no substitute . That's a fact But if you wanted to Putin some practice you could try shooting some fast clays. (minis whiththe trap spring wound up full ) and try shooting them from a gun Down position. This again will be hard at first bit should improve your kill ratio a bit... Oscillating ball trap is good for practicing random shots. Again make sure you get the trap wound up fast and shoot gun down Edited December 16, 2011 by Mike525steel Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
motty Posted December 17, 2011 Report Share Posted December 17, 2011 Very true. Very often, a few misses come before the first pigeon of a session is downed. Not for experienced shots. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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