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6.5x55 zero for stalking??


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Pick up the new 6.5 on monday and plan was planning on zeroing the 140grain sp for 1"high at 100 yards.

 

If you have a 6.5 what is your zero setup and what drop do you expect at the usual 150 200 250 yards.

 

 

Cheers for any tips.

 

 

This comes round all the time, is this a joke, what is all this 1" high business, please explain, and perhaps you could you also tell me where your zero actually is?!

 

You zero whatever rifle/calibre you have to maximize on your general quarry distance and ammo type!

 

:good:

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What he really means is that he is zeroing his rifle in at 154 yds and at 100 yds he will be 1" high, at 175yds 1" low and at 200 yds he will be 2.5" low.

 

:lol::lol::lol:

 

Hello Charlie, been a while since we have had a "chat"...................... :lol::lol:

 

Do you think he knows that, do you think his barrel is spotless and the crown perfect, oh yes and just how long is it, was it a home load or factory, and that moderator, and the scope, what size mounts were they, etc etc!!!!!!!!!!!!!!???????????????????.. :good::good:

 

:lol::lol::lol::lol::lol::lol:

 

I'll have 10p on it with you he doesn't know where his zero is!

 

:good::good:

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Why, and with what calibre, where is your zero, and if you can shoot quarry at any given distance why don't you zero at that distance? :hmm::hmm:

 

My caliber is a 6.5x55SE.

 

I zero 1" high at 50 yards.

 

Shots are taken from 25 yards to furthest to date 125 yards

 

I Zero 1" high at 50 yards because that was the distance i get on my zeroing "range" simples!

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My caliber is a 6.5x55SE.

 

I zero 1" high at 50 yards.

 

Shots are taken from 25 yards to furthest to date 125 yards

 

I Zero 1" high at 50 yards because that was the distance i get on my zeroing "range" simples!

 

1" high at 50yds gives you about a 213yd zero.

 

which equates to around 2" high at 80yds, 2.3" high at 100 yds, 2.5" at 125 yds and 2.5" low at 250 yds.

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Really i dont think they go that high at 100 yards?

 

Beretta28g

 

Look, I'm not after a scrap but I'm lost here, help me understand what you are doing!

 

This is my point entirely, you don't have a clue where your zero is, you don't think the information CharlieT posted is correct!

 

WHY don't you know, where is your zero, and WHY dont you zero at the distance you most commonly shoot your quarry? :hmm::hmm: There can be no reason why you cannot zero at the distance you most commonly shoot your quarry! :hmm::good::good:

Edited by Dekers
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Beretta28g

 

Look, I'm not after a scrap but I'm lost here, help me understand what you are doing!

 

This is my point entirely, you don't have a clue where your zero is, you don't think the information CharlieT posted is correct!

 

WHY don't you know, where is your zero, and WHY dont you zero at the distance you most commonly shoot your quarry? :hmm::hmm: There can be no reason why you cannot zero at the distance you most commonly shoot your quarry! :hmm::good::good:

 

You have PM.

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Beretta28g

 

Look, I'm not after a scrap but I'm lost here, help me understand what you are doing!

 

This is my point entirely, you don't have a clue where your zero is, you don't think the information CharlieT posted is correct!

 

WHY don't you know, where is your zero, and WHY dont you zero at the distance you most commonly shoot your quarry? :hmm::hmm: There can be no reason why you cannot zero at the distance you most commonly shoot your quarry! :hmm::good::good:

 

I most commonly shoot my deer at between 20 yards and 200 hundred yards . Thats why I zero my .308 1 inch high at 100 yards . Hasent failed me yet .

 

Harnser .

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Pick up the new 6.5 on monday and plan was planning on zeroing the 140grain sp for 1"high at 100 yards.

 

If you have a 6.5 what is your zero setup and what drop do you expect at the usual 150 200 250 yards.

 

 

Cheers for any tips.

 

Just consider the ranges you will shoot at the above 1" high is ok for chest shooting larger deer on the hill but can lead to misses over the top (or worse) on Roe etc in woodland- your peak trajectory (over the line of sight) occurs bang on the range you might shoot most at in practice . This is as the bullet is actually curving already downwards to meet the 1" high at 100yds

The only way to know your trajectory is shoot it and record it, the hardest bit though is learning windages. Wind will lead to more bad shots than trajectory once you step the ranges up to 200yds and dont even go that far unless the group (and placement) is half or less in practice what you require in the field

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Thanks to the chaps who told me their experience with 6.5's

I didn't need a lecture on the actual zero, i was just after some info to give me a rough guide before I try mine out to find bullet drop and actual zero etc etc.

 

cheers

 

Wouldn't blame you if you wished you hadn't asked! Still, it's good to know the difference between a shotgun, rifle and a weapon.

 

Don't suppose the make of the 6.5 starts with T and ends with 3 by any chance? If so, sing out.

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Pick up the new 6.5 on monday and plan was planning on zeroing the 140grain sp for 1"high at 100 yards.

 

If you have a 6.5 what is your zero setup and what drop do you expect at the usual 150 200 250 yards.

 

 

Cheers for any tips.

 

You would not escape without abit of ragging olde mate, just put it down to a bit of fun. I don't shoot 6.5 but have heard much about what a cracking calibre it is for just about all deer species, there's a bit on this weeks Fieldsports tv channel about it on Munties. I shoot 243 and 308 and zero at 165yds for both with the ammo I load, this suits me for shooting upto 200yds. I would not head or neck shoot though unless the zero range and animal range were more specific and I was in a highseat (much easier to mark out ranges with a range finder etc from a static point of course.) I have found that bullet placement to the top of the heart and slightly above drops deer to the floor whereas low heart shots can see a deer run a bit sometimes ( this is just my experience, as of course Dekers has never had a deer do more than a step) so being slightly high is better than to low.

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