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MEC 600 Jr in 28 Gauge - All's Good Until Final Crimp.


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Hi Guys - Help!

 

I'm reloading .410 and 12 Gauge with no problems, both presses new in the boxes, got the components sorted out, an absolute pleasure to use. I also have a second hand MEC 600Jr in 28 Gauge, bought it with a load of components a while back, and the thing is either possessed or has been meddled as it's refusing to start behaving. I've read the posts on here, watched the Youtube videos, been on some US forums, but all the good advice doesn't make the thing crimp properly; I would post some photos but am too deeply ashamed at the mess this press turns a nice pre-crimped case into.

 

I'm seriously considering using the press to resize, prime and charge the reloads, and finish them with a RTO!!!!

 

I think it's the cam and die that are out of time or something, and have worked my way through the variations possible but never seem to get close to a suitable crimp, or a crimp of any sort come to that.

 

Does anyone out there run a MEC 600 Jr for 28 Gauge reloading? I'm looking to check some basic settings on this rig, from the position of the bolt at the base, through to the cam position on the final crimp. I think it's the cam and die that are out of time or something, and have worked my way through the variations possible but never seems get close to a suitable crimp, or a crimp of any sort come to that.

 

Any and all advice much appreciated - hoping there's someone out there who this ring a bell with.

 

Cheers.

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Assuming the cases are fit for purpose, it's trial and error adjustment. Make sure your stack height of the powder wad and shot is right, make sure the pre crimp is good and then adjust final crimp pressure more or less. Try some dummies using wads instead of powder and shot.

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Nabbers,

 

Many thanks - I'm wondering about the cases I'm using, they are the red Lyalvale Express which I have a load of having shot the originals and saved the cases. Might be worth getting some new unused Hulls and as you say start from the basics; everything looks OK to e until the final crimp and even then it doesn't feel the same action as the other MECs.

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Guest cookoff013

have you checked for loose parts?

 

you can email MEC and get some measurements of the final crimp plunger to eliminate that variable.

is the pree crimp the right one?

what actually is wrong? bent ? whirrly? crowning? hole? etc..

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Sounds too familiar ....Often I MEC load the 28s then RTO . For some reason it is very case finicky ...

FWIW the most success I have is when I set up the crimper by loseening everything and using a factory load as a gauge to get the adjustments set. :... change case type / start again.

It does help to use a top card under the crimp

I acquired a brass head for the crimp starter, it makes the lines' sharper.

Also came to terms with shooting a less than perfect crimp.

Just wish Lee made a 28 Loadall!

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I have a mec in28 guage, its got the metal final crimp , not ZYTEL .

It turns out a perfect crimp, no problems, have you set the cam arm to taper as well as crimp, this can cause bulging above brass? if set wrong.

Also, strip your final crimp down as you may have a piece of plastic/or shot wedged in it. john

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Hi Fellas,

 

Thank you for the replies - everything is tight, nothing loose on the press, and it passes comparison to the .410 and 12G MECs that run fine alongside it. No debris either, so it's either got a wrong bit fitted (unlikely) or it's just being fussy on the adjustments.

 

Thanks for the info on the bolt holes in the base - I'll check that before doing anything else.

 

I've had a good reply from C&G and on the back of the 24 grain 12G load we sorted out for my old SBS, we're sorting out a fibre game load for the 28G, which they'll run through on their MEC and I'll be getting some rough adjustments off them before ordering everything to be sure all the components will go together. I'll set the press up to fit a factory cartridge (genius suggestion that) and go from there with the C&G.

 

When this gets sorted out, and it will, I'll make sure what the problem was goes into this thread!

Edited by Tin Man Work
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  • 5 months later...

Slacken off the final crimp and adjust down on a factory loaded shell till you feel resistance. (if you understand what I mean) then tighten up.

The presses are designed for the sturdier American compression formed cases.

However, my 600jr, once owned by David Garrard, performs beautifully!

I always finish ith a spin.

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I use a grabmaster in 28 and I had a few teething problems with crimps but got over them by making sure that the column length was not too much for the tube and a bit of cam adjustment.

I can turn out these.>> 1cf5cbfa.jpg

 

The one on the right has a bit of a thrupney bit shape on the folds which seems to happen on the small diameter but like FC has previously stated a quick spin cures that

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Guest cookoff013

one of the issues can be the hulls are too short,

mec make and sell an extra long threadded crimp punch for cases that are just a tad too short.

 

just google "mec cam crimp plunger extra long threadded" and it should come up with something.

 

the cases i use are supposed to be 70mm but are 68, the 67mm aare 65 and the 65 are 64.... complete confusing.

 

also if the components dont fit just right, it can be a godsend for the extra turn.

 

also i`ve started to use way less precrimp than i`ve ever used, and i`m using brand new hulls.

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Slacken off the final crimp and adjust down on a factory loaded shell till you feel resistance. (if you understand what I mean) then tighten up.

The presses are designed for the sturdier American compression formed cases.

However, my 600jr, once owned by David Garrard, performs beautifully!

I always finish ith a spin.

 

To be honest, I read this thread purely out of boredom.

 

I wonder how many current members have any idea who David Garrard was - apart from being an out and out gentleman.

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  • 1 month later...

The plague of the small bore reloader, the horrible crimp!

The MEC600 in 28g. and 410. don't have a 6 petal pre-crimp head as the larger calibres do have.

I also have had huge frustration reloading 28g. on this press. I bought a metal super sharp pre-crimp tool to help improve things. Under normal compression pressures, it actually made things worse! I found that the super crimp starter caused a "Bulge", just below the crimp on the hull wall. This "Bulge",then got snarled up in the final crimp die, producing hideous results. Like F.C. I eased off hugely on the pre-crimp pressure, and set up the final crimp height with a new factory cartridge. Success! Useable rounds. These smaller rounds always have a faceted finish to the crimp finish. This is simply remedied with the RTO Tool. I can now produce reliable rounds from my 28g. MEC. Remember, make sure the press is precisely set up for the hull height you are using, this is critical, if you are having crimp problems, ease off on crimp and pre-crimp pressures used DON'T increase it.

I know how frustrating these rounds can be to get right, but, it's worth persevering.

Edited by stuartyork
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I did have a book by this chap when i first reloaded for shotgun a few years abck.

David Garrard was 'Homeloader' in the Shooting Times. When Rob Clarke and myself took over the BASC reloading demos on the Road Shows, our names were pasted over his name on the BASC display board.

I still have it somewhere...happy days!

 

Back to 28 gauge....I load them 'sloppy' on the 600Jr with the crimp station set 'high' and barely closing the crimp. The shells are then finished with a spinner in a bench drill.

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