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Tips for zero'in a scope


dazzyboi
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Im going down my dads on the weekend who has a clamp so im going to clamp it down, only problem is his back garden has the longest distance of about 20 yards, but least the zero should be pretty much spot on if all goes to plan...

 

Im now only planning to shoot at a max of 30 yards now so i can zero spot on at 20 yards, then the extra 10 yards i will have to calculate.

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Dazzyboi, try downloading Chairgun its a very useful tool for calculating the pellet trajectory for your gun. It will also suggest the optimum zero for you.

 

For example my old PCP running at 11.8 ft'lbs using Accupels: 30 yards zero would also give a first point zero of 16.75 yards. So theoreticaly zeroing at 16.75 would give you 30 yards spot on. This gives a 1inch Kz from 12.5 to 35 yards. i.e. no hold over. :yp:

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Dazzyboi, try downloading Chairgun its a very useful tool for calculating the pellet trajectory for your gun. It will also suggest the optimum zero for you.

 

For example my old PCP running at 11.8 ft'lbs using Accupels: 30 yards zero would also give a first point zero of 16.75 yards. So theoreticaly zeroing at 16.75 would give you 30 yards spot on. This gives a 1inch Kz from 12.5 to 35 yards. i.e. no hold over. :lol:

 

 

Thanks mate, ill download it now and have a fiddle about with it, aint got much else to do at work today :yp:

 

 

I dont know the exact FPS or FT lbs of my rifle though

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FOR THE LOVE OF GOD DO NOT CLAMP IT DOWN!

IT IS A SPRINGER AND SPRINGERS DO NOT APPRECIATE BEING CLAMPED DOWN.............

 

Try to bench rest off a bean bag if you cannot hold it steady enough freehand.

 

 

Why dont they like being clamped down?? can anybody justify this??

 

Iv tried resting it on stuff but its no good, the recoil is too much to get a pellet into a 1" circle at anything over 15-20 Yards..

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Dazzyboi, the reason they don't like being clamped down is because the gun recoils whilst the pellet is still travelling down the barrel. If you are holding it too tight or have it clamped you will move when it recoils, which means itl send your pellet off in another direction.....Personally I'd suggest one of two possible ideas....try a bean bag (I used one for my HW95K and they are good and comfy) and possibly if uve got the cash it might be worth looking at perhaps a MAP scope? (Hawke multiple aim point). Theyre great because you zero the middle at between 15-30 yards and the mil's on the scope are factory set for 10 yards, (then the bullseye) then below it markings for 30, 40, 50 yards. Also it has markers for 10/20mph crosswinds...and the scopes arent too expensive starting at around £30.

 

Also try some different pellet combinations...go for the round headed pellets (I found the powerpels and pointed pellets in general a bit scattery). I also found logun penetrators to be quite good in .177, but they seem to go everywhere but where you aim in .22 :-/

 

Just some friendly ideas,

 

-Andrew

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Dazzyboi, the reason they don't like being clamped down is because the gun recoils whilst the pellet is still travelling down the barrel. If you are holding it too tight or have it clamped you will move when it recoils, which means itl send your pellet off in another direction.....Personally I'd suggest one of two possible ideas....try a bean bag (I used one for my HW95K and they are good and comfy) and possibly if uve got the cash it might be worth looking at perhaps a MAP scope? (Hawke multiple aim point). Theyre great because you zero the middle at between 15-30 yards and the mil's on the scope are factory set for 10 yards, (then the bullseye) then below it markings for 30, 40, 50 yards. Also it has markers for 10/20mph crosswinds...and the scopes arent too expensive starting at around £30.

 

Also try some different pellet combinations...go for the round headed pellets (I found the powerpels and pointed pellets in general a bit scattery). I also found logun penetrators to be quite good in .177, but they seem to go everywhere but where you aim in .22 :-/

 

Just some friendly ideas,

 

-Andrew

 

 

But sitting on a bean bag is no different from what i was doing yesterday?? It still recoils and still the recoil is enough to put me off target.

 

A new scope is not an option at the moment either im afraid.

 

Are you sure that if its securly clamed down and there is no way of moving the gun, how can the recoil move the gun??

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The point being is that unless you are are going to clamp the gun down for every shot, including those at rabbits etc, you'll never be on target.

 

Your best bet is to find a shooting position that works for you. Allow the rifle to rest on your forehand rather grab onto it. If the recoil is kicking so much as to put the rifle that far out, maybe it has a fault.

 

Did you memntion what rifle you have?

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Btw with the bean bag...I didnt mean sit on it, the way I usually do it is like this....Lie down flat on the floor (preferably on a comfortable mat or something), and put your shoulder/arms/rifle onto the beanbag. U usually then sink a few inches and are in a comfortable but supported prone position which is stable (its like having a bipod if you do it correctly) but of course when it recoils, it recoils as it would normally into your shoulder. Give it a go =). The only pain is that if its a springer every time uve taken the shot you have to get up to reload lol, but you only really need to do it a few times =)

 

-Andrew

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You need to let the rifle move with the recoil. The best way I have found is, put a target out at 25yds, shoot a five shoot group with the sights set as they are.

 

Then move the elevation up or down to bring the impact point to the middle of the target, then do the same with windage.

 

Then shoot another 5 shot group at 25yds, move your target to 35yds and aim at the centre of the target and shoot another 5 shot group.

 

by then holding your crosshairs on the centre of that group will tell you howmuch hold over or under you need for that range.

 

This can be repeated for any range and is easier if you have a row of targets side by side.

 

If you can group at 1/2" at 25yds with 5 shots then that is plenty good enough. A 1/2" group at 25yds is a 3/4" group at 35yds and 1" at 45yds.

 

Get your scope zero'd by resting it on a old caravan style cushion which will allow you to hold it steady but also allow the rifle to move.

 

Most of all, don't get wound up with it, relax and enjoy it. None of us hit everything all the time.

 

Anyone who says they have never missed has never shot.

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Then move the elevation up or down to bring the impact point to the middle of the target, then do the same with windage.

 

 

What if my 5 shots are not in the same sort of group and are more spread out than grouped together??

 

Also do i just judge it? i.e if i had 5 shots on the target, and they all went 2" under the centre point, how would i adjust it, point the scope at the point of impact and click up until the scope is lined on the centre point??

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Right this is how I do it.

1. Fire a 3 round group at your chosen range

2. Work out the Mean Point of Impact (MPI) (see below)

3. Adjust elevation and windage as necessary

4. Fire another 3 round group to check zero.

5. Repeat steps 2 to 4 as necessary.

 

To work out the MPI.

1. Draw a line linking the shots

2. Draw further line through the shot to bisect the opposite linking line

3. Where the lines meet is your MPI

 

Can't get the diagram on I'll work on it

I put it Here

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Right this is how I do it.

1. Fire a 3 round group at your chosen range

2. Work out the Mean Point of Impact (MPI) (see below)

3. Adjust elevation and windage as necessary

4. Fire another 3 round group to check zero.

5. Repeat steps 2 to 4 as necessary.

 

To work out the MPI.

1. Draw a line linking the shots

2. Draw further line through the shot to bisect the opposite linking line

3. Where the lines meet is your MPI

 

Can't get the diagram on I'll work on it

I put it Here

 

 

Yeah but what im saying is when i adjust the windage & elevation do i have to focus the crosshairs of the scope on the MPI and adjust until the crosshairs are on the desired centre of the target.

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On the turrets of your scope it should say how much each click moves the Point Of Aim (POA) at a certain range ie 1/4" at 100yds. If this is the case then at 25 yards you will need 4 clicks to move the POA 1/4", so if your MPI is 1" high and 1" left then you will need to adjust by 16 clicks down and 16 clicks right. You then carry out a check group to see if your adjustments are correct and fine tune as necessary

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On the turrets of your scope it should say how much each click moves the Point Of Aim (POA) at a certain range ie 1/4" at 100yds. If this is the case then at 25 yards you will need 4 clicks to move the POA 1/4", so if your MPI is 1" high and 1" left then you will need to adjust by 16 clicks down and 16 clicks right. You then carry out a check group to see if your adjustments are correct and fine tune as necessary

 

 

Understood, Will be giving it another bash this weekend, im going to aim to zero to 20/25 yards and only carry out a shot within 30 yards from now on until i get hold of a PCP.

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What if my 5 shots are not in the same sort of group and are more spread out than grouped together??

 

Also do i just judge it? i.e if i had 5 shots on the target, and they all went 2" under the centre point, how would i adjust it, point the scope at the point of impact and click up until the scope is lined on the centre point??

 

If your 5 shots are spread out then it is either you, or something seriously wrong with the rifle.

 

If you put 5 shots 2" below where you were aiming the at 25yds then (mostly) you would need to move the elevation turret (the top one) by 32 clicks.

 

Repeat as necessary.

 

Most scopes are 1/4" @ 100yds which equates to 1/16" @25yds = 2" / 1/16" = 32 clicks.

 

You must be able to produce nice reasonably tight groups before worrying about zeroing. If you cannot shoot a 1" group or less at 25yds then keep practising.

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