zeroin Posted November 22, 2012 Report Share Posted November 22, 2012 Message to OP'er, get yourself to a dog trainer if you are struggling. Let them see the dog but more importantly they will see you and your faults. Clearly, if she is 16 months and you do want her at heel on the leader but have failed to achieve it, then IMO it's not going to get any better unless changes are made. Those changes need to be bomb proof, for you and the dog. My point was/is, heeling the life out of a young dog can be detrimental long term, depending on how you want the dog to turn out. With a spaniel, IMO, drive and hunting cover ability is first and foremost, for someone else this might be different. The more drive the better, my own preference. If I was looking for dog without real drive and hunting aggression, I'd buy a lab. Generally, they are also easier to bring into heel. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
zeroin Posted November 22, 2012 Report Share Posted November 22, 2012 Well this is going nowwere fast. Someone needs here adding to the ignoor list i think Is this a response to my post to you asking you to point out where I said a spaniel was HARDER to train? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
UKPoacher Posted November 22, 2012 Report Share Posted November 22, 2012 Well this is going nowwere fast. Someone needs here adding to the ignoor list i think Good call. Done! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
matty* Posted November 22, 2012 Author Report Share Posted November 22, 2012 Ok ok, well lots of information and points going on hear, thanks for all the advice. Improvement is being seen already, useing alans advice and turning as soon as she pulls not going mad on it but i can see slight improvement already and its helped. going to stick at it and be patient. thanks again for all the advice from everyone. matty Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
remy 700 Posted November 22, 2012 Report Share Posted November 22, 2012 I dont know if I dare but.....try when your dog is of the lead recalling and getting the hound to walk behind you(no leash) , as YOU are the head of the pack choosing when to hunt (if it works apply leash) , some really interesting posts try a few of the techniques that are suiting you and your fellow worker.... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Alan Maughan Posted November 23, 2012 Report Share Posted November 23, 2012 Ok ok, well lots of information and points going on hear, thanks for all the advice. Improvement is being seen already, useing alans advice and turning as soon as she pulls not going mad on it but i can see slight improvement already and its helped. going to stick at it and be patient. thanks again for all the advice from everyone. matty Matty, Im sure if you keep on this every day as I suggest she will be doing what you want very quickly. In the vast majority of dog problems during training it is down to an inconsistent approach by the handler or the handler not making his commands in a way that is clear for the dog to understand. If you cant get out other than evenings during the week then I suggest 2 short training walks of even 5-10 mins on the lead, once when you get home and another after dinner. Its about building a repetition cycle, no different to training kids Here's mine waiting patiently for some action, she wasnt teathered, the lead was loose on the ground while I took the picture Let us know how it goes. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PWD Posted November 23, 2012 Report Share Posted November 23, 2012 (edited) Put a shock collar on it would be about as sensible as kicking it in the face every time it comes back...Cockers are stuborn and you would loose this battle. Positioning of the slip lead can work..put it on the dog slightly higher just so it sits behind the ears almost..keep the leash across you and not to slack and do this as an exercise it can make most dogs calm down on the leash...A dog can get more confident on a lead and excited too when its heading somewere..not necessarily a bad thing having a dog with enthusiasm...cant have both the cheery and the cake . If it walks OK without ridiculous pulling then I would settle for that and not get to hung up on heeling like an obedience dog . Edited November 23, 2012 by PWD Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
zeroin Posted November 25, 2012 Report Share Posted November 25, 2012 (edited) Agree with PWD on the above. Message to OP'er, do not use a whistle to get a dog heeling nicely, however softly or otherwise it's blown. The dog will simply hear the begining of the whistle and expect one of the usual three things to be asked of it. Sit, recall, change of direction. As soon as the dog realises none of these are on the menu, it will simply start to drift again. This can be detrimental when it comes to the use of the whistle when genuinely wanting a dog to stop/sit, recall or change direction whilst hunting/quartering.It will cause sloppy responses in the three main areas to the whistle. The dog is either staying in heel or is not. Peeping a whistle to regain heel would suggest that the dog has not mastered heel or the methods used to gain heel. Edited November 25, 2012 by zeroin Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ETO Posted November 29, 2012 Report Share Posted November 29, 2012 hate to say it and I don't agree with them and I've never used one but an electric collar might be the only answer, or loads of patients & work ! I didn't even get past your reply before thinking WHAT THE ****! Electric collar is mentioned before patience and lots of work - surely you have it mixed up.. If I could rant in a foreign language right now I would do it! Matty - there is simple ways of teaching a dog to heel. I simply just turn around and wait till they catch up, then go back the way I was going in the first place. You go in circles and don't actually get anywhere for a while, but it works. The whole pulling on the lead is because they get to where they want to be quicker. So if you make it impossible to get to that place unless they are walking nicely - then they learn that way. Of course dogs learn through repetition and consistency, they are animals so don't have a rational mind. Mine know the routes to our local walks and if I let them they would pull so they get there quicker - so they can be let off lead quicker and run around like ***** quicker. So if they walk nicely - that end bit is the reward. They get let off when we reach our destination because they have walked there nicely. It took about a week to teach the older dogs. 2 weeks for my youngest boy and still learning for the pup (but then I am not the only one who walks them so my work is messed up a lot because folk won't bloody listen!) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
UKPoacher Posted November 30, 2012 Report Share Posted November 30, 2012 Sorry, but dogs don't pull on the leash to get there quicker. If that were the case they would run off in front when off the leash and that doesn't happen in many cases. The dog pulls on the leash because the attachment to its handler via the leash gives it more confidence. Take away the leash and the dog wants to be nearer the handler for security. In respect of the recommendation of an electric collar I think that has been well and truly buried. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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