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What knife??


adamskiseal
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Not at all Colin, fully understand - but I was more referring to the blade type/shape for different jobs.

 

Are you using an alloy, ceramic or diamond steel/hone? I find the little one I have puts the edge on no problem but its usually on skinning I find you notice the blade dulling the most as the skin starts to "pull" as opposed to falling away.

 

Regards,

Gixer

 

have a look on scobies web site you want the finest steel you can get not ceramic i will try and post you a link up though i am not the best on a computer lol.

when skinning if your deer is hanging and yon cut round shank's and loosen round tail you can pull skin off all the way down to the head without a knife if you are loosing the edge that easy i would say you are doing something wrong somewhere

 

colin

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I remember when I wanted a decent knife for grallockin etc, I spent £40 on my first knife, 440 stainless blade and had a succession of knives after that around the £30-50 mark. One day, walking through the Midland Game Fair I saw some carbon steel knives for sale at an end of show price £6 I think and yes it was a Mora. I was so impressed with how sharp it was I soon invested £12 on a Mora Companion stainless steel knife. The Sandvik stainless used by Mora is far superior to 440 used in many mid ranged knives, you can get it super sharp and it holds a good edge, I don't like the Mora sheath but luckily it fitted into a Deerhunter knife sheath and is the best knife I have ever used. If you want a bushmans knife for survival and splitting logs then go for something heavier but for a hunting knife at a good price then Mora everytime. And you won't be shedding tears if you loose it on a forest floor after grallocking in the dark.

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As an all rounder thats for keeps I'd get a decent flat grind bushcraft knife. I've got an Aurther Wright which is just above your budget, but its a high quality blade. Holds an edge extremely well and is very well machined. They're versatile knives designed to be used in a variety of grips. They're heavy but they work well as gralloching and paunching knives, they're very robust and a flat grind edge is easy to maintain. The Aurther Wright sheath isn't the prettiest but its tough as hell and good for stropping the edge. Enzo's bushcraft knives are also very good. Boker make a budget bushcraft with decent steel.

 

If you want a folder I much prefer liner locks. They don't clog with debris, they are much easier to clean tham back locks and they can be opened and closed one-handed.

Drop points are better blade shapes for field use than clip points. Gixer's Buck folder blades would be too broad for me and too much like a clip point in profile. But its a personal thing. You really need to use a knife before you can judge it. When you know exactly what you want from your knife then its worth spending some money, buying quality and looking after it.

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I just cant see why you would want to spend silly money on a knife .

I have just brought a new Mora clipper companion, for £11 , perfect size for most field tasks and so sharp you can literally shave with it , available in both stainless or carbon steel.

And even better you will not be in tears if you lose or damage it !!

Same reason to buy a baikel side by side or a Purdey, its about build quality and the material used and the workmanship.

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Same reason to buy a baikel side by side or a Purdey, its about build quality and the material used and the workmanship.

 

sort of, the moras punch well above their weight and can be put in the dishwasher so are hygenic seem to last ages as well

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I personally find a Mora to big for the way i gut bunnys, I use either a mora No:6-8 or an EKA No:8 with a orang handle so its easy to spot ! The EKA was £30 and is well made and does a great job, the opinel was sub £10 and is great too! Both easy to sharpen and maintain ! :D

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Same reason to buy a baikel side by side or a Purdey, its about build quality and the material used and the workmanship.

 

Great if you have just have won the lottery and the wife and kids let you spend it all on yourself, for me, as with rifle,scopes etc its about getting the best that I can afford.

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Great if you have just have won the lottery and the wife and kids let you spend it all on yourself, for me, as with rifle,scopes etc its about getting the best that I can afford.

I completely agree, get the best you can afford if that's a mora great a fantastic knife, if you can afford a Fallkniven F1 so be it. I have a thing for knives and have a few expensive ones for me it's all about quality and workmanship.

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To be honest it really doesn't matter as they all go dull after using it to skin/empty out a deer, I find having a few for different jobs works, a steel just takes the dull edge off - it won't help retain it any longer though. :good:

 

 

 

I'm using a Boker Rekincho for deer work. That doesn't lose its edge after gralloching, legging and deheading. Neither does the A. Wright Bush knife actually. All they need is stropping on the back of the sheath to polish up the edge to keep them hair-shaving sharp. The worst knife I've had recently for edge retension has been an EKA Swingblade. Unzipping the belly dulls that. I only use it now with the unzipper for skinning.

My usual rabbit paunching knife is a Buck Vantage. That holds an edge extremely well too. Good little knife for £30.

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The F d i c k multi steel is blinding. A flat steel that keeps an edge on almost everything. About £90 quid though.

 

When I was boning for a living I used the F **** steels both a fine flat and a mirror flat , that really polished up the edge , I still have a **** knife at home thats around 25 years old now and still has a good edge.

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