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Shotmaker dimensions


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can anyone help with information on wireing simmerstat to cooker ring thanks in advance for any reply's

 

I'm no electrician so in no position to advise but I recall that on mine it was a little square box with 'line' and 'load' printed against the spade terminals. I recall that line was power in and load was power out to the shotmaker. Neutral shared a double terminal in one corner and another terminal meant for an 'on light' in the opposite needed blanking off. I recall the earth wire bypassed this and connects straight to the shotmaker element on the plate between the tails. Yours is probably different and electricity kills so the advise of a competent electrician is most advisable. I also made sure mine had a RCD on the plug for safety.

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I'm no electrician so in no position to advise but I recall that on mine it was a little square box with 'line' and 'load' printed against the spade terminals. I recall that line was power in and load was power out to the shotmaker. Neutral shared a double terminal in one corner and another terminal meant for an 'on light' in the opposite needed blanking off. I recall the earth wire bypassed this and connects straight to the shotmaker element on the plate between the tails. Yours is probably different and electricity kills so the advise of a competent electrician is most advisable. I also made sure mine had a RCD on the plug for safety.

I am sure we must have a hand full of electricians on hear who could advise you the correct way like sits says electric just wants to zap you every chance it get :oops:

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yes it's dangerous so i got my sparky to wire it up . i tested it but found the element was not big enough i ordered a 6in one but when i got it was only 5.38. that small amount made a huge difference because it wouldn't reach the outside of my pan or heat the ramp enough so got to order a larger one. thank's for your help everyone who replied.

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yes it's dangerous so i got my sparky to wire it up . i tested it but found the element was not big enough i ordered a 6in one but when i got it was only 5.38. that small amount made a huge difference because it wouldn't reach the outside of my pan or heat the ramp enough so got to order a larger one. thank's for your help everyone who replied.

 

6" elements are fine, it's what I mostly used but it needs to be a 1500watt 3 turn and not the standard 1100 watt 2 turn version. I used to buy the element then make the pot to fit it nicely. 7" elements with a decent wattage are easier to come by though.

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  • 2 weeks later...

I found that a 0.60mm hole would make 7.5 shot, a 0.65 would make no7, a 0.8mm hole would make no6 shot and a 1mm hole would make no5.

Are these sizes correct? Ive tried drilling a 0.6mm hole in steel bolts and its proved a nightmare. It seems tiny! Any tips regarding drill speed, feed and lube? They are HSS jobber drills. Cant afford cobalt!!

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Are these sizes correct? Ive tried drilling a 0.6mm hole in steel bolts and its proved a nightmare. It seems tiny! Any tips regarding drill speed, feed and lube? They are HSS jobber drills. Cant afford cobalt!!

 

It's not a problem with quality drill bits, Dormer etc not cheap Chinese rubbish, and decent equipment to put them in. It's far easier in standard bolts than stainless and heating the bolts to bright red and allowing them to cool will anneal them making the drilling easier but it still wants doing on proper machinery and not with hand tools. I believe deershooter on this forum will make a stainless set for £35. I make my own but haven't the drill bits right now to make spares.

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Ive got a Medding pillar drill and precision pin chuck. I am using Dormer HSS jobber drills. Do you drill them in one go or do do them in stages or a mil or two at a time. What RPM and do you use lube?

 

I drill a 3.2mm hole down the length of an M8x12 hex set screw which is firstly centred in my lathe then finished just shy of coming thru the bolt head on my drill press at maybe 400 rpm, speed isn't that crtitical here.

I then fit the bolt in my milling machine vice with one flat square to the chuck and put a piece of electrical tape on this to guide the tiny drill bit for a moment until it creates its own mark to follow. I drill at around 1000 fps+ and peck at the steel somewhat to avoid the metal work hardening by generating to much heat at the tip. I use a drop of CT90 cutting oil because I have it handy rather than it being particularly good.

It's a smart move to make the tiny hole first before drilling down the length because it stops the tiny drill breaking as it breaks thru into the larger hole so easily, then going thru again after the big hole is drilled to clear it. I blow them out with an air line to make sure they are clear of swarf.

 

To drill stainless reliably you really want cobalt drills, carbide is too brittle and standard HSS can't cope with the abrasive nature. I've come to the conclusion it's better to make them out of mild steel bolts which wont last as long but far easier to reproduce and replace. I think the mild steel are more likely to corrode and go out of spec but you'll still make plenty of shot with them first.

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The best and safest coolant to use is cheap fabric conditioner. I used to get Easy Iron brand but now the price has gone up i get the 1 litre square bottles of Morrisons own brand. It's blue in colour and about 50p per litre. Makes great shot.

Sits

 

Do you use it neat or what level of dilution would you advise ?

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