Captain Skellen Posted March 15, 2018 Report Share Posted March 15, 2018 On 3/13/2018 at 22:45, impala59 said: Lovely piece of wood there! I passed on one of these a while ago (with an advertised broken slide assembly) I'm ashamed to say I did not even go and view it! I wish I had now as the quality is evident and making slide bars is not the most difficult thing I'm sure. I will be sure to look out for them in future as a quality addition to the collection, thanks for pics! my search list now with Marlin 120, includes Mossberg Slugster 500, Ithaca DSPS 37, (Always) Remington Model 31, Remington Model 10, Remington Model 17 to name but a few Regarding the fragile action bars on the Marlin. One thing that I looked at but never followed through is trying a slide assembly from a Mossberg 500, there are several different sizes. it could work as the gun is very similar in the mechanism. I'm on the look out for another classic US pump, quite fancy a Winchester Model 12 or Ithaca 37 DSPS again. I know of two Ithaca's both not for sale at the moment, 1 is parkerized the other is the rare matte chrome version. Fingers crossed. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
theshootist Posted March 16, 2018 Report Share Posted March 16, 2018 22 hours ago, Captain Skellen said: Regarding the fragile action bars on the Marlin. One thing that I looked at but never followed through is trying a slide assembly from a Mossberg 500, there are several different sizes. it could work as the gun is very similar in the mechanism. I'm on the look out for another classic US pump, quite fancy a Winchester Model 12 or Ithaca 37 DSPS again. I know of two Ithaca's both not for sale at the moment, 1 is parkerized the other is the rare matte chrome version. Fingers crossed. Matt chrome? I suppose that is like the "marine" finish to the 870? I had an opportunity at an early model 12 recently with a straight stock. It had been optioned with a high grade wood. Unfortunately the asking was a bit much given that it needed a full renovation. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Captain Skellen Posted March 16, 2018 Report Share Posted March 16, 2018 3 hours ago, theshootist said: Matt chrome? I suppose that is like the "marine" finish to the 870? I had an opportunity at an early model 12 recently with a straight stock. It had been optioned with a high grade wood. Unfortunately the asking was a bit much given that it needed a full renovation. Yes the matte chrome is indeed like the marine 870, never seen one in the flesh but they do exist, may need to wear sunglasses to counteract the glare off the gun. The parkerized gun is owned by a friend of mine who just collects guns, not even shooting them anymore. In his own words his Ithaca is not very reliable, but I still fancy one as they sure look the business. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
theshootist Posted March 17, 2018 Report Share Posted March 17, 2018 There is a take down section 1 1897 in the next Holts sealed bid auction. Winchester 1897 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
throdgrain Posted March 19, 2018 Report Share Posted March 19, 2018 Took the Supernova out yesterday, last round of skeet I shot 24/25 so coming on nicely much harder with a pump! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
arm3000gt Posted March 19, 2018 Report Share Posted March 19, 2018 11 minutes ago, throdgrain said: Took the Supernova out yesterday, last round of skeet I shot 24/25 so coming on nicely much harder with a pump! With scores like that your definitely not allowed to come to the next pump club competition (if there is one). Good shooting Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
throdgrain Posted March 19, 2018 Report Share Posted March 19, 2018 1 hour ago, arm3000gt said: With scores like that your definitely not allowed to come to the next pump club competition (if there is one). Good shooting Thanks mate Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
impala59 Posted March 19, 2018 Report Share Posted March 19, 2018 1 hour ago, arm3000gt said: With scores like that your definitely not allowed to come to the next pump club competition (if there is one). Good shooting That's great shooting Throdgrain! I hope you can make the next comp! in the interests of the pump fraternity we should all aspire to, and ultimately achieve high scores with our chosen tools. Autumn for the next shoot with, hopefully, The Shootist defending his crown. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
theshootist Posted March 20, 2018 Report Share Posted March 20, 2018 Top shooting. I shall start practising! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Scrumbag Posted March 20, 2018 Report Share Posted March 20, 2018 Blimey, need to get down on the clays more! Anyone doing the target shotgun shooting at Bisley this weekend? Scrummy Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Lord v Posted April 2, 2018 Report Share Posted April 2, 2018 Have now put about 600 through the weatherby. Action has worn in nicely and is noticeably smoother. User error jams from not coming all the way back now hardly ever occurr.... Main gripes: the black finish on the receiver and barrel scuffs easily. The lifter in particular has quite significant brass line down it from loading cartridges. The black on the magazine tube is also obviously wearing. Nothing that affects the operation of the gun though. It's a cheap gun, and I haven't been that precious with it. Also the instructions are rubbish and not worth the paper they are printed on. Not really a gripe, but the supplied chokes are a bit tighter 'choke' (or seem to be) than I like. Easy enough to get used to though. Everything else seems solid though. Goes bang everytime you pull the trigger and hits whatever you point it at. The synthetic stock seems bomb proof and no obvious wearing of the mechanical parts. Very easy to strip and clean even for a mechanical idiot like me. I do like the balance of it and the look to be honest, the brass bead gives it a nice finish. It's not the greatest pump action out there, and there is nothing fancy about it at all. But it's cheap, works, and more importantly looks like it will keep on working. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
impala59 Posted April 2, 2018 Report Share Posted April 2, 2018 Wear your scuffs with pride! Pumps are working tools, glad your round count is going up fast and things smoothing out for you. You can always refinish when it gets too scruffy, that’s an enjoyable pastime too! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Scrumbag Posted April 3, 2018 Report Share Posted April 3, 2018 Scuffs are the justification for Custom Cerakote my friend! Relish it! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Lord v Posted April 3, 2018 Report Share Posted April 3, 2018 It's definitely got some character now! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
spanj Posted April 3, 2018 Report Share Posted April 3, 2018 Just a quick heads up. I am selling my immaculate Mossberg 500 pump, its just not getting used so needs to go and is advertised on gunwatch Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
impala59 Posted April 10, 2018 Report Share Posted April 10, 2018 (edited) Rainy Day thought I'd put pen to paper so to speak! (waiting for Danish oil to dry!) Ithaca Model 37 guide to reliable operation The following is my attempt at a set of guidelines for the successful operation of the Ithaca Model 37 pump action shotgun. It is based on my own trials and tribulations, fails and jams. I, personally, have a great affection for these venerable guns and own quite a few. I use them for clays, small game and target/practical shotgun. They are a relatively simple design from the hundred plus years ago minds of Browning and Pederson, they have the fewest parts of any pump gun and when correctly set up are one of the slickest actions around. Being bottom eject makes them truly ambidextrous and even the safety catch can be replaced for left handers I have, for the last six months had no fails to feed, fails to eject or any other type of malfunction and am confident in the use of all my Ithaca’s. I decided to share my findings in the hope of promoting my favourite pump gun. I should state the following is my own regime, it works for me! First things first, always make sure, in a safe direction, that your gun is empty when preparing to take down or clean (I know it seems obvious but there's no harm in stating the fact) 1. Strip the gun down in this order; Cycle the action so the hammer is cocked and apply safety catch. Remove the stock first (always!) Screw the magazine cap clockwise (towards the receiver) to disengage the barrel lug. Move the forearm so that the bolt is about halfway along its travel and rotate the barrel ¼ turn to disengage the interrupted threads. Set the barrel aside for your normal rodding/cleaning regime (Always include chamber polishing, I use a bore brush in a slow drill wrapped in 000 wire wool and lubricated with a little oil) Unscrew the magazine cap taking care as the magazine spring will be under tension. Remove the spring and cartridge follower and put aside for cleaning/oiling. On section 2 (restricted magazine) shotguns the follower will not be removable as it is trapped between the crimp and the receiver stop. With the correct size screwdriver loosen and remove the magazine/barrel yoke. Move the slide forward gently until the slot in the bottom is visible and push the slide retention pin to the side (against spring tension) to release the slide rod and forearm forward. Remove and set aside for cleaning etc. Remove the large screw at the rear lower left side of the receiver (use the correct size screwdriver, if the slot is chewed up, think about replacing or re-dressing carefully with a needle file) Slide the trigger assembly to the rear, pressing down on the hammer to clear the lifter. The right hand shell stop will fall out, don’t worry it can only go in one way later! Remove the two small lock screws from either side of the receiver and then the two larger lifter/ejector pivot screws (with four cut-outs in head) Move the slide/bolt to the rear and remove together with the lifter. This is usually as far as you will need to go with the take-down, the left shell stop is spring loaded and retained by either a very small slotted screw, from the bottom, at its pivot point or by an L shaped spring pin also from the bottom on later models. It is not necessary to remove unless it is broken or worn (poor feed from magazine etc) Test the tension by pressing at the forward end into the receiver side wall. Clean all parts and assemblies, taking care if you release the hammer to restrict its travel. Oil only lightly, observing polished wear areas. 2. Examine and if necessary replace the extractors, look for chips or uneven wear at the sides. The hooks should be sharp and the spring tension positive, a loose, rounded, unsprung extractor just will not work. Slide a fired case into the extractors to observe the retention. With nothing else in the receiver, slide in the bolt/slide plate and observe the tipping bolt lock up, understanding how your gun works makes fault finding much easier. 3. If your gun is from the ‘70s / ‘80s you may find on the lifter/ejector two metal “thumbs” These were an experiment by the Ithaca Gun Co which failed in its purpose to prevent jams, in fact it causes them as well as preventing loading into the chamber! (this was in fact the cause of my last Ithaca jam at last year’s pump club competition where I used a ‘new’ (to me) gun prior to serious testing) Any gun returned to the factory had these “thumbs” filed off and it is the correct procedure to do this. If you put your lifter in a vice though, put a piece of scrap wood between the lifter fingers so as not to crush the sprung shape of the piece. Simply file off the small stubs flush, probably best not to use an angle grinder for this job! 4. Pay attention to the top extractor running slot in the ceiling of the receiver, checking for burrs, chips or other damage. At this point it is worth making a tool for later alignment purposes, see diagram This needs to be a sliding interference fit in the slot and will be used to correctly align the barrel during re-assembly. Mine is approximately 3.8mm or 0.15” or 5/32”, made from 4mm scrap aluminium and it works for all my guns. 5. Once everything is clean and very lightly oiled (my choice is Break Free CLP) re-assembly takes place in reverse order, with crucial steps in bold and italic text 6. Put the bolt/slide between the lifter fingers (rear lifter hump upwards) and gently locate the slide back into position, on its track slots. This can be a little fiddly but having the three pieces together makes it easier in my opinion and the lifter is sprung around the bolt in operation anyway. Refit the lifter pivot screws, ensuring they engage with the holes in the lifter, until they stop then back off until the first cut out aligns, then fit the lock screws tight. Holding the right hand shell stop in position with its pivot point in the hole in the receiver, slide in the trigger assembly (hammer cocked, safety on) and lightly pressing down on the hammer to clear the lifter. Align the trigger plate with the hole at the rear of the receiver and replace the screw. Tighten this only until it stops, do not overtighten this screw as it will crush the rear lower receiver. This screw does not need to be tight as rearward force will be placed upon it by the stock bolt, thus locking it into place. This is why many 37’s have this screw damaged, by trying to unscrew it when it is locked tight elsewhere. The rear receiver being even slightly crushed will cause bad cycling, stiff action and jamming. Refit the stock at this time. Replace the forearm, lining up the connecting rod with the slot in the receiver. Pull back the rod locating pin in the base of the slide and reconnect the rod to the slide. Re-install the follower (if removed) the magazine spring, the yoke (loose) and the magazine cap (fully screwed in) Check for function, slowly cycling the action, observing the lifter, bolt slide stop and shell stops particularly. Ensuring the bolt is about halfway to the rear, refit the barrel, rotating until in position and loosely engage the pin on the magazine cap in the barrel lug. Do not attempt to replace the barrel with the bolt forward! If you have made the tool above, slide it along the groove in the receiver and into the extractor cut-out in the barrel. Held in this position, firstly, fully wind the magazine cap into the barrel lug until tight. Next, push the yoke into contact with the magazine cap (it may need a gentle tap with a wooden or nylon drift) and slowly tighten, ensuring that it remains centred on the barrel and does not push to one side or the other. This is a military practice to prevent the magazine cap unscrewing and the barrel moving out of alignment. Recheck with your new alignment tool or feel with a jeweller’s screwdriver, any step between the receiver slot and the barrel extractor cut-out will cause problems. 7. Your Model 37 should now feel slick and easy running and on the range should be trouble free. I would always counsel using ammunition with at least a 10mm high ‘brass’. I do tend to avoid certain brands, Eley, Comp X to name a couple but I do not shy away from the cheap stuff, fibre or plastic wad and, as I said earlier, I am not suffering the problems sometimes associated with these fine guns Edited April 10, 2018 by impala59 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TIGHTCHOKE Posted April 10, 2018 Report Share Posted April 10, 2018 (edited) Very useful Mate. As you know I no longer have my M37................................................. Edited April 10, 2018 by TIGHTCHOKE Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Opossum Posted April 10, 2018 Report Share Posted April 10, 2018 Do you have a picture of the “thumbs” on the lifter? Mine’s a 1980’s model. Cheers! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
impala59 Posted April 10, 2018 Report Share Posted April 10, 2018 1 hour ago, Opossum said: Do you have a picture of the “thumbs” on the lifter? Mine’s a 1980’s model. Cheers! Yours should not have them as they were officially discontinued in 1977. However, due to parts changing and the sometimes apparently chaotic use of old parts by IGC they seem to appear every now and then. Sorry its a library picture but I have filed all mine off! I didn't think at the time to document! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
impala59 Posted April 10, 2018 Report Share Posted April 10, 2018 7 hours ago, TIGHTCHOKE said: Very useful Mate. As you know I no longer have my M37................................................. It was your old '77 model that alerted me to the lifter thumb/spur problem, it works fine now, smooth as silk! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TIGHTCHOKE Posted April 10, 2018 Report Share Posted April 10, 2018 Well done. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Opossum Posted April 10, 2018 Report Share Posted April 10, 2018 (edited) Thanks for the pic! Mine lacks those spurs, which I suppose is why it’s been so reliable Also: I was testing the Ithaca with dummy rounds, and it will reliably spew the round from the magazine onto the floor instead of onto the lifter if it has to eject a full weight dummy round. It didn't do it when it ejected an empty case. I guess this is because the heavy cartridge slows the lifter coming down so the magazine cutoff is tripped while the lifter is coming down - It's not really an issue, just a quirk I noticed! Edited April 10, 2018 by Opossum Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
impala59 Posted April 17, 2018 Report Share Posted April 17, 2018 (edited) Thought I would add a picture of my barrel alignment tool as my diagram probably not too clear also the yoke hard locked against the mag nut In situ with the nose within the top ejector cut-out in the barrel The Yoke locking the magazine nut/cap in position Edited April 17, 2018 by impala59 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Scrumbag Posted April 17, 2018 Report Share Posted April 17, 2018 Impala, you are a wealth of knowledge! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
impala59 Posted April 17, 2018 Report Share Posted April 17, 2018 14 minutes ago, Scrumbag said: Impala, you are a wealth of knowledge! Street Dictionary : "wealth of knowledge" - ANORAK! ;-) Thought I'd get it in first! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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