danish oil stock finish

[hedge hunter]

Hi guys im after some advise please. Iv recently just striped my old investarm 20g back to bare wood. It was in a terrible state, anyway after all the prep she was finally ready for the oil. I used a danish oil on the gun, left to dry, knocked back between coats etc, all as stated in other post. Now my question is now that its totally dried do i just leave it as is or do i need to wax it for a final finish ? Any help and advice greatly recived cheers hh

[welshwarrior]

You can just leave it to dry around 2 weeks I the polish and wax to protect the surface until totally dry some oil mixes take 6 months to fully harden.

[hedge hunter]

Blimey i didnt think it would take that long, thas why i chose danish not linseed because every body said it dries really quick, what wax shoild i use, cheers hh

[arjimlad]

CCL do a nice gunstock conditioning oil which has wax in it.

 

After staining my AYA no4 stock with Van Dyk crystals & refinishing it with stock oil with alkanet colouring, I use the CCL stuff to keep it in good condition. Just rub in three or four little drops each side with the palm of your hand.

 

You could apply Colron finishing wax if you prefer a waxy water-resistant finish though.

[gemini52]

I have used danish oil on a few guns and yes it does dry fairly quickly.it was developed for use on exterior timber,imho you dont need any other finish once dry it should be fine.

[hedge hunter]

Cheers gemini, i found it dries very quickly also. Thats why i was a little yaken bacm when welshwarrier said it would take a few weeks, do you recon its fine as it is noother treatment needed, cheers mate

[welshwarrior]

The oil may appear dry it feels dry but it needs to harden off especially before it gets damp it will also mark easily. I just offer advice I do this for a living again now!

[clayman]

While Danish oil is a means to an end, its not the traditional way of gunstock finishing - perhaps this guide helps with other processes commonly used.

 

GUN FINISHING:-

 

WOOD: Typical stocks are made of varying grades of either Walnut or Beech.

FINISHES: Differing markets around the world have different preferences for type of finish, and manufacturers usually finish guns for their main markets. In the USA higher build gloss finishes are typical, while the English market prefers a matt oiled wood. How well the wood will take any desired finish, from matt oiled through to high gloss lacquered, will depend on the wood quality. More open grain woods can have the grain sealed to improve finish, and coloured finishes can bring out the grain and figuring.
PREPARATION: All old finishes need to be removed. Polyurethane varnish can be removed with heat or alkaline paint removers. Oiled or wax finishes should be washed out with white spirit. The wood can be sanded with fine paper, and any bruises in the wood can be lifted by steaming.
OILING: The wood can be nourished with RED-KITE Walnut Oil. This helps prevent it drying out and cracking. English Walnut Oil provides a light brown tint. Brush into the grain and allow 4hrs to cure, wipe off any surplus. Repeat multiple times for maximum penetration.
COLOUR: Wood can be left natural, or have colour added. RED-KITE dye stains may be mixed for a range of colours from Honey Yew to Dark Walnut shades These are water based dyes and should not be mixed with oil dyes or into oils / waxes - apply as a separate process and allow to dry. RED-KITE Alkanet Finish lifts grain colour and makes figuring show better. This has a reddish tint. Brush into grain, wipe over for evenness, and allow to dry 12 hrs.This will soak in and may need further applications. Colouring should be done before grain sealing, as once sealed the grain will not take up colour readily.
GRAIN SEALING: Use RED-KITE Shellac Grain Sealer. Paint this on generously and allow to dry for 12hrs. Note that this process also waterproofs the wood. Use Cellulose Grain Sealer before Cellulose finishes. Finish with RED-KITE Stock Wool 0000 extra fine wire wool.
FINISHING;
Oiled: Use RED-KITE London Wax Finish for a traditional matt finish. RED-KITE Carnauba Wax Finish gives a hard high gloss finish.Build up in layers allowing to dry between. Cut back with Stock Wool. Buff off with a lint free cloth. Alkanet Oil may be used to enhance colour in the grain before sealing and building the final finish.
Lacquer: For a harder wearing finish, use RED-KITE Brushing Lacquer finish. This is a natural spirit based NitroCellulose lacquer, available matt, satin or gloss. Thin the lacquer 1 part RED-KITE Cellulose Thinners to 3 parts lacquer and use a good quality brush to apply. This can be flatted with Stock Wool and built up in layers if required. Allow 1hr between coats.

WARNING: Depth of colour and figuring relief may change as finishing layers build up. Some processes can be difficult to reverse. Aways test your finishes on spare wood or areas that don’t matter.

[Danoi99]

Does Clay man work for Red Kite by any chance?

[Rogc]

 

 

Edited August 6, 2013 by Rogc

[Rogc]

While Danish oil is a means to an end, its not the traditional way of gunstock finishing - perhaps this guide helps with other processes commonly used.

 

GUN FINISHING:-

 

WOOD: Typical stocks are made of varying grades of either Walnut or Beech.

 

FINISHES: Differing markets around the world have different preferences for type of finish, and manufacturers usually finish guns for their main markets. In the USA higher build gloss finishes are typical, while the English market prefers a matt oiled wood. How well the wood will take any desired finish, from matt oiled through to high gloss lacquered, will depend on the wood quality. More open grain woods can have the grain sealed to improve finish, and coloured finishes can bring out the grain and figuring.

PREPARATION: All old finishes need to be removed. Polyurethane varnish can be removed with heat or alkaline paint removers. Oiled or wax finishes should be washed out with white spirit. The wood can be sanded with fine paper, and any bruises in the wood can be lifted by steaming.

OILING: The wood can be nourished with RED-KITE Walnut Oil. This helps prevent it drying out and cracking. English Walnut Oil provides a light brown tint. Brush into the grain and allow 4hrs to cure, wipe off any surplus. Repeat multiple times for maximum penetration.

COLOUR: Wood can be left natural, or have colour added. RED-KITE dye stains may be mixed for a range of colours from Honey Yew to Dark Walnut shades These are water based dyes and should not be mixed with oil dyes or into oils / waxes - apply as a separate process and allow to dry. RED-KITE Alkanet Finish lifts grain colour and makes figuring show better. This has a reddish tint. Brush into grain, wipe over for evenness, and allow to dry 12 hrs.This will soak in and may need further applications. Colouring should be done before grain sealing, as once sealed the grain will not take up colour readily.

GRAIN SEALING: Use RED-KITE Shellac Grain Sealer. Paint this on generously and allow to dry for 12hrs. Note that this process also waterproofs the wood. Use Cellulose Grain Sealer before Cellulose finishes. Finish with RED-KITE Stock Wool 0000 extra fine wire wool.

FINISHING;

Oiled: Use RED-KITE London Wax Finish for a traditional matt finish. RED-KITE Carnauba Wax Finish gives a hard high gloss finish.Build up in layers allowing to dry between. Cut back with Stock Wool. Buff off with a lint free cloth. Alkanet Oil may be used to enhance colour in the grain before sealing and building the final finish.

Lacquer: For a harder wearing finish, use RED-KITE Brushing Lacquer finish. This is a natural spirit based NitroCellulose lacquer, available matt, satin or gloss. Thin the lacquer 1 part RED-KITE Cellulose Thinners to 3 parts lacquer and use a good quality brush to apply. This can be flatted with Stock Wool and built up in layers if required. Allow 1hr between coats.

 

WARNING: Depth of colour and figuring relief may change as finishing layers build up. Some processes can be difficult to reverse. Aways test your finishes on spare wood or areas that don’t matter.

 

A very informative post Thank you

[gemini52]

The oil may appear dry it feels dry but it needs to harden off especially before it gets damp it will also mark easily. I just offer advice I do this for a living again now!

I done a stock on a beretta 300 about five years ago,i sold it to a mate who had it about three years,he used it in rain hail and shine,he then sold it to a another guy from are shoot who still uses it and the finish is just as good now,i am a time served decorator and have used danish oil a lot over the years i know some people on here reckon its not what you should use on gun stocks,but if it works and does the job,what the hell.

[welshwarrior]

Danish oil is fine for a finish not my taste but may be yours I expect as a decorator you know about drying times it's not instant but once hardened an oil finish is tough enough for any weather it's allowing it to harden is key.

[garden gun]

Traditional it is not, but having used Danish Oil on Mrs Gun's Morris Minor Traveller for many years it does, on prepared wood, give a muted lustre. It will also require regular re-coat. However, it is very waterproof from the off and does not stain (on traveller wood - not sure about most stock woods).

[Bewsher500]

wouldn't put it anywhere near my stocks to be honest

its a timber furniture preparation

 

i prefer a lighter oil

Walnut oil is perfect and can be toned up or down depending on what finish you want

I don't personally like the Best English gloss look

 

grain sealer is a must IMO

leaves you with a perfect surface to work on

 

use your hands not a brush

the heat helps and you get a much better feel for coverage and depth

 

apply a few drops adhering to the old adage:

once a day for a week

once a week for a month

once a month for a year

[Andyg97]

So do I need to wax a stock after I have finished putting on walnut oil. Or is the oil sufficient.