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Labradors, what colour


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Another couple of question.

 

Is a hip, elbow and eye score a must? I have seen a litter from good working stock, but they don't have any of the scores.

 

Is there any other things I should be looking out for?

 

 

Thanks again for your advice so far.

 

 

you have to judge the owner a bit on this and ask yourself why would anyone breed labradors without getting them scored. Hip problems stop your working dog from working at a young age, cost a lot to medicate for and really are pretty traumatic to dog and owner. Scoring isn't an absolute guarantee but its a good start, personally spending a few hundred extra to get the right pup is well worth it and can save you a bucket load of cash in the long run.

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It depends, i would have no problem buying a lab that the parents are not hip scored. It's not that unusaul for beatiing line dogs to be bred un scored as only taking the 1 litter and most will go to people they know. Most beating line and keepers dogs will be un scored and un KC registered doesn't make them bad or unhealthy dogs as long as parents were slightly older when bred from

 

But it depends on the people breeding them, if they seem decent folks and only want to continue their line and are keeping a pup for them selves and the dogs have got plenty off days under there belt i would take a pup no prob's.

 

My old lab is a cracker and i would like to use him for 1 litter with a decent bitch but at 8 years old can't see the point in scoreing, i have thought about it thou, this dog will prob have done well over 300 days either beating, picking up or shooting over him and he gives his all, with no problems even doing back to back days on grouse or anything else for that matter.

 

Just got to judge the breeders, and i have heard off 1 paticular stud with low hips that tended to throw high hip score progeny, hip scoreing doen't guarantee anything, but if it was a show type line i would insist on it but for an active dog working hard any weaknesses should show up in its working life, just depends how well u know the breeders or who ever reccommended them

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Hip problems stop your working dog from working at a young age,

This is not totally true, there will be loads of labs about that aren't tested but would have poor hips if scored. These dogs will live a very active working life & the owner will be none the wiser. I recently sold a bitch that was nearly 5 years old, her hips were abysmal yet she was fit & active dog that could easily do several days consecutive work, she was the most athletic dog I've ever had & could clear a five bar gate without touching it.

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you have to judge the owner a bit on this and ask yourself why would anyone breed labradors without getting them scored. Hip problems stop your working dog from working at a young age, cost a lot to medicate for and really are pretty traumatic to dog and owner. Scoring isn't an absolute guarantee but its a good start, personally spending a few hundred extra to get the right pup is well worth it and can save you a bucket load of cash in the long run.

I agree with al4x it they haven't bothered to have them hip & eye scored why? or they have bothered & the scores are rubbish!!! you take the chance! I no what I'd do. plus the hip & eyed scoring is to improve the breeding not to bother is irrisponsable & not helping the breed.

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This is not totally true, there will be loads of labs about that aren't tested but would have poor hips if scored. These dogs will live a very active working life & the owner will be none the wiser. I recently sold a bitch that was nearly 5 years old, her hips were abysmal yet she was fit & active dog that could easily do several days consecutive work, she was the most athletic dog I've ever had & could clear a five bar gate without touching it.

Best thing to do pass on a dog with hip dysplasia so it can be someone else's problem.

I'd suggest it wasn't bad if it could do a few days back to back,

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I'm thinking of one of these pups. I won't put the price down as I would be keen to see what price you would put on a pedigree like this. From the other pups i have looked at they seem a good price for this pedigree.

 

Sire:

  • hips 0/0
  • eyes unaffected
  • elbows 0/0

Dam:

  • hips 3/3
  • eyes unaffected

Attached image of advert.

post-61828-0-28634300-1376596540_thumb.png

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A friend has just picked up something similar that was cnm & pra clear by parentage for under £400 These pups will be either clear or carrier as the bitch is not tested. Nothing at all wrong with the pedigree but it is a buyers market at the moment, I'd expect them to be up at £550 / £500

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usually i prefer the fox reds ...got 3 off them and now got my first yellow one ......depends on what your going to do with it ...... check hips scores and elbows(look for 0-0) anything under 15 is good for hips anything after is not so good in later life.

broadlaw has a litter of blacks around 2 weeks old ....these pups are generally always easy trained and good for novice trainers

post-26983-0-95558700-1376745153_thumb.jpg

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There's a chap on the shoot with a fox red bitch, and I have to admit I fell in love with it the first time I saw her. Sadly there are no fox red pups about locally, as this would be my first choice.

 

Talking to the good lady last night is steering me towards a black one as she didn't like the idea of yellow hair everywhere.

 

I'm not in any rush to get one at the moment so the views will be taken on board and help with the choice.

 

I also have another dilemma, I work 10-12 hour shifts 5 days a week with no way of getting home to check on her, my partner works 9 hour days with a 45 min commute each way making her working day long. I have to be honest this is the only thing stopping me getting my shooting buddy as I feel mean leaving a dog on its own for that long, especially a pup. There is a possible way round this, but it would involve leaving the dog in the back of the landrover in the yard all day. When I'm in the yard all day I would be able to check on her, however there are some days when I would be out driving all day on the road. There will always be someone in the yard that I could ask to feed and water if I couldn't get back during the day.

 

What are your thoughts on max time to leave a dog alone for in a kennel / run or well ventilated landrover back?

In actual fact their are laws about leaving a dog unattended, you might wish to read up on them rather than they be badly quoted here. Colour means little there are only Black, yellow and a mix gene Choc in the UK. In America Silver is now being registered. Biggest issue with colour is what is popular gets bred from regardless of the field ability of the parents.

It used to be Yellow for a wildfowler because they were easier to hide on the marsh and Black for a game shot because they were more common and easier to hide the fact it was actually your dog ruining the next drive. No such thing as a bad colour in a good dog however there are plenty of right colours in bad dogs

My advice only buy a "fox red" if both parents are well health checked and actually well proven in the field, they are too popular with buyers. Only buy chocolate if the parents are of genuine working pedigree.

Dogs die in hot cars far quicker than humans might in the same circumstances and they cannot get out, static and windows are not great ventilation air needs cooling and forcing. Get a better solution OR leave the dog thing for now

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Another couple of question.

 

Is a hip, elbow and eye score a must? I have seen a litter from good working stock, but they don't have any of the scores.

 

Is there any other things I should be looking out for?

 

 

Thanks again for your advice so far.

People with the wrong assessment of their bitch, they will all do everything and all have great temperaments according to the owner / breeder. Ask around and you find they are hard mouthed, turn deaf, give tounge like a hound and were trained via an electric collar.
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Thanks for all your replies.

 

There were a few breeders out there which were claming the sire and dam had good hips, but didn't have a certificate to prove it. I politely said that these pups were not for me

 

I have enquired about many litters, and have finally picked a pup. She is only 7 weeks old at the moment so will be picking her up next week. The breeder had all the paperwork in place including hip and eye certificates. Aswell as the mother of the pups, the breeder also had the grandmother and the great grandmother all of which were in good health.

 

Hopefuly I've picked a good pup. Having looked at the pedigree and health certificates I think I have the makings of a good shooting buddy and family pet.

 

Just need to decide on a name now. :lol:

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Thanks for all your replies.

 

There were a few breeders out there which were claming the sire and dam had good hips, but didn't have a certificate to prove it. I politely said that these pups were not for me

 

I have enquired about many litters, and have finally picked a pup. She is only 7 weeks old at the moment so will be picking her up next week. The breeder had all the paperwork in place including hip and eye certificates. Aswell as the mother of the pups, the breeder also had the grandmother and the great grandmother all of which were in good health.

 

Hopefuly I've picked a good pup. Having looked at the pedigree and health certificates I think I have the makings of a good shooting buddy and family pet.

 

Just need to decide on a name now. :lol:

 

 

If all those were for work, then you have made a great choice. Few keep their own rubbish to word it politely, it actually quite hard to find the right Lab

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