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Cavity Tray


rocksaplenty
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I'd be grateful for some building advice.

The rsj above our patio doors is rusting and expanding and cracking the render. I've inspected and it looks like there was no cavity tray fitted when built (c1970's).

Apart from fitting one, i'd been thinking about cladding the outside of the building with wood. On the basis that it would provide an adequate moisture barrier so that in theory no more moisture would get into the cavity wall. Would that solve the problem?

Thanks

Edited by rocksaplenty
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Yeah. I think they might have added the patio door opening some time after the building was up. That said there are a few other places that seem to be cracking. I don't think that the cavity wall insulation they put in a few years previously has helped the situation.

Edited by rocksaplenty
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I'd be grateful for some building advice.

The rsj above our patio doors is rusting and expanding and cracking the render. I've inspected and it looks like there was no cavity tray fitted when built (c1970's).

Apart from fitting one, i'd been thinking about cladding the outside of the building with wood. On the basis that it would provide an adequate moisture barrier so that in theory no more moisture would get into the cavity wall. Would that solve the problem?

 

Thanks

 

Really depends how much money you want to throw at it and if the Local Planning Authority will allow you to clad it in timber. Is the existing building brick built ?

 

I would be tempted to temporarily take the Doors out, whip out the old RSJ and build in a new Galvanised steel cavity lintel with cavity tray above. I would have thought that would have been cheaper to do than cladding the building. You can then seal the brickwork above ( giving special attention to the mortar joints where the water will be driving through) with a silicone water repellent applied with a garden sprayer. Its important to re seal it every 5 or so years though.

 

Do you know what type of insulation was installed in the cavity...was it blown fibre or poly beads. ?

 

If you are looking at Timber cladding, cedar or larch is possibly going to be the most cost effective long term and it might be worth considering an insulated render system which will have the benefit of reducing the U value through the wall and also your heating costs.

 

All steelwork in a cavity wall should be either galvanised or if not given at least two coats of Bitumen paint.

Edited by Fisherman Mike
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