kent Posted March 5, 2014 Report Share Posted March 5, 2014 (edited) Don't get too hung up on hpr trainers what you are trying to get you would get at any dog training. Steadiness and recall you would work on with anyone and as said in group sessions with others the dog is easier to expose to distractions. Personally I would look locally as then you can go more regularly and it is as much about you learning as the dog. For your use pointing is fairly irrelevant but in my experience they get steadier and steadier at it as they get more used to surroundings. I would also take pearce's advice earlier in this thread as well. One thing though is they grow out of a lot of it with consistent training, and it could be worse one of the dog pups I sold has killed 3 cats so far and that was by 8 months old mostly in the owners garden he is going to be a stalking dog but it is funny how they have to check their own garden is cat free before letting him outWhat a shame they don't and didn't fix the actual issue. Random cat killing is real bad and has put many a dog owner in court the fact its only eight months does not bode positive that its in good hands and will likely end up a back of the truck back-up hound "to be opened only in emergency" rather than a true stalking companion. If one chose a pointer I am sure actually pointing is quite a big thing. Steadying and training a pointer , retriever or spaniel is a little different- the first should get out into the country air scent and freeze on it (usually being discouraged from following foot scent), the other should not leave heel unless told regardless of scent and the last should keep within range of gunshot use scent as appropriate yet push any likely cover flush the quarry and stop/ drop. To employ a trainer who didn't get the difference at this stage and you will perhaps end up with a long range spaniel (as I suspected was the case earlier). The dog shows some potential if it points(even if its a flash point) If the right person gets involved now this can be built on. Cos stated recall is ok, retrieving OK yet delivery needs work and it does point but will also rush in. That sounds well ok for a 1 yr old dog, I shouldn't worry at least its not been out killing the neighbours cats for half its short life. Indeed I am quite impressed for a first effort with a little known breed of HPR, it was always going to be a challenge. The ideal time of year to get that dog holding point will shortly be upon us so get onto it Edited March 5, 2014 by kent Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cosd Posted March 5, 2014 Author Report Share Posted March 5, 2014 (edited) Don't get too hung up on hpr trainers what you are trying to get you would get at any dog training. Steadiness and recall you would work on with anyone and as said in group sessions with others the dog is easier to expose to distractions. Personally I would look locally as then you can go more regularly and it is as much about you learning as the dog. For your use pointing is fairly irrelevant but in my experience they get steadier and steadier at it as they get more used to surroundings. I would also take pearce's advice earlier in this thread as well. One thing though is they grow out of a lot of it with consistent training, and it could be worse one of the dog pups I sold has killed 3 cats so far and that was by 8 months old mostly in the owners garden he is going to be a stalking dog but it is funny how they have to check their own garden is cat free before letting him out By all accounts, though I will want him doing hide work too, my understanding is that if I want him to hunt as well is that the point should be taught before the retrieving. This is why I would prefer a specialist trainer to the breed. I've had Jake for almost 8 months now I think, and since he's been at home the poor cat only stays upstairs where the dog isn't allowed. The cats crossing the hallway between the stairs and the garage door to get out is like a scene out of Indiana Jones. Though Jake has caught up with him a few times and the cat just stops and faces him, Jake poops his pants and walks backwards Edited March 5, 2014 by Cosd Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kent Posted March 5, 2014 Report Share Posted March 5, 2014 By all accounts, though I will want him doing hide work too, my understanding is that if I want him to hunt as well is that the point should be taught before the retrieving. This is why I would prefer a specialist trainer to the breed. I've had Jake for almost 8 months now I think, and since he's been at home the poor cat only stays upstairs where the dog isn't allowed. The cats crossing the hallway between the stairs and the garage door to get out is like a scene out of Indiana Jones. Though Jake has caught up with him a few times and the cat just stops and faces him, Jake poops his pants and walks backwards If you want a dog to do more than one thing let it have an absolute minimum of one proper full season at least on the main task at hand. I found my HPR a handful waiting in a hide for long periods although he did it we were both on edge, I think on balance the truly versatile dog does not truly exist (and if you made one it might be too old to work before you finished) you should have one clear goal and train towards it. If you don't have that one clear goal then training is in danger of having too many contradictions. It is now you must make that call or the training will likely become a bit o this bits o that mess. If later you wish to add to it except the fact that it might not work to great and it might only ever be a specialist in the first chosen task. Can you get the dog outside and sit yourself down on a bench etc and it stays put happily settling at you feet while you read a book for an hour or more? If not then its going to be stressful in a hide with it with birds streaming in and gunfire, trust me I have been there. If its a one dog option think before you leap Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cosd Posted March 5, 2014 Author Report Share Posted March 5, 2014 If you want a dog to do more than one thing let it have an absolute minimum of one proper full season at least on the main task at hand. I found my HPR a handful waiting in a hide for long periods although he did it we were both on edge, I think on balance the truly versatile dog does not truly exist (and if you made one it might be too old to work before you finished) you should have one clear goal and train towards it. If you don't have that one clear goal then training is in danger of having too many contradictions. It is now you must make that call or the training will likely become a bit o this bits o that mess. If later you wish to add to it except the fact that it might not work to great and it might only ever be a specialist in the first chosen task. Can you get the dog outside and sit yourself down on a bench etc and it stays put happily settling at you feet while you read a book for an hour or more? If not then its going to be stressful in a hide with it with birds streaming in and gunfire, trust me I have been there. If its a one dog option think before you leap My main shooting is pigeon shooting, everything else is secondary for me. If he was to "master" that (I don't expect him to be a champion) and does other disciplines to a lesser extent, then I'm still a very happy man. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kent Posted March 5, 2014 Report Share Posted March 5, 2014 Then I suggest you make a start sitting on benches etc. If you cant get him settled for long periods then like I say unlikely when the excitement rises. In basic format you just need a better delivery and to get into handling him while out? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
scotslad Posted March 5, 2014 Report Share Posted March 5, 2014 Kent makes some good points earlier. I think u are possibly trying and asking to much of a dog to do all the things u want esp when they are so different. I agree with kent that hpr's are not the wonder dogs often made out to be, some of the more established breeds are far more versatile (apart from the pointing) I didn't realise/forgot u wanted him as a hide dog. In theory u can train retriving, hunting and pointing all at same time but keeping them as seperate sessions so not to confuse the dog. If it was me i (have got a dog more suited anyway ) but i might be inclined to discourage the pointing and hunting altogether, if u are really wanting him mainly for a hide dog. I would imagine ur going to have steadiness, fidgeting and noise problems asking an hpr to sit in a hide for long periods with so much going on around it, so getting it to sit still for long periods will help, even start throwing a lot of dummies about it later when it is older but keeping it sitting Also a lot of retrieving might spoil his pointing on a young dog esp if flappers which may encourage it to run in. I would do as u said and get some proper advice, if training as a hide dog no reason any dog trainer could not train u, but even if u want it to point a bit a decent trainer with a bit of understanding should still be able to help u. If i have any problems with my wire, first phonecall would be a spaniel trainer, and i'm training my dog as an out and out pointer, not rocket science but a good trainer should be able to read most dogs and help u out Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
al4x Posted March 5, 2014 Report Share Posted March 5, 2014 By all accounts, though I will want him doing hide work too, my understanding is that if I want him to hunt as well is that the point should be taught before the retrieving. This is why I would prefer a specialist trainer to the breed. I've had Jake for almost 8 months now I think, and since he's been at home the poor cat only stays upstairs where the dog isn't allowed. The cats crossing the hallway between the stairs and the garage door to get out is like a scene out of Indiana Jones. Though Jake has caught up with him a few times and the cat just stops and faces him, Jake poops his pants and walks backwards Retrieving is generally the weakest hpr trait and with what you want the dog to do pointing is pretty irrelevant. With my first one I listened to that advice and it was useless, with the second I have focused on retrieving from as early as she could and it has worked though that may be partly breeding. She is pointing but not steady on point yet but it will come, her mum is so steady on point that you have to walk up to her and get her to flush if she is really on something. There are some good people locally though mostly on standard breeds but what you want yours to do is exactly what they are used to teaching labs. Dogs can be headstrong and hard work as you are finding, and hpr's with their slow maturity you could be in for a year or two more of challenge Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cocker boy Posted March 6, 2014 Report Share Posted March 6, 2014 Labradors are fantastic in a pigeon hide. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kent Posted March 6, 2014 Report Share Posted March 6, 2014 Labradors are fantastic in a pigeon hide. Because they were bred for it, useless as pointers mind you Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cocker boy Posted October 26, 2014 Report Share Posted October 26, 2014 How are the Portuguese pointers doing these days?. Its been a long time since we heard anything about them. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Brodie Posted November 7, 2014 Report Share Posted November 7, 2014 Andy at Roman River gundogs in Essex is a good all round trainer and trials HPRs. Well worth a visit or at least speaking to. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Join the conversation
You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.
Note: Your post will require moderator approval before it will be visible.