Salopian Posted August 10, 2014 Report Share Posted August 10, 2014 I have asked on here a few times about a drawing or a photograph of a manually operated flapper. Years ago I had one which was basically a wire cradle to hold a dead birds body , a spigot to rest its head on and two arms attached to operate wings. Pulled by a string going back to hide. Lent it to a mate , who moved house and never returned it. If anyone has a photograph or drawing ? I would love to make one for old times sake. I have even got Flycoys and an Apple floater so that gives my age away. RiP Tony Orchard. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
HIDENSEEK Posted August 11, 2014 Report Share Posted August 11, 2014 I was given this manual flapper years ago, and I believe it is a WAGBI /Sid Semark original. I also have a Deben one somewhere amongst my c**p.Will also try to post a picture of that. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
EMcC Posted August 11, 2014 Report Share Posted August 11, 2014 That's identical to the one I have, it is/was called a Seamark. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ditchman Posted August 11, 2014 Report Share Posted August 11, 2014 not as good as a "ditchman"..... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
HIDENSEEK Posted August 11, 2014 Report Share Posted August 11, 2014 Found the Deben flapper Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
HIDENSEEK Posted August 11, 2014 Report Share Posted August 11, 2014 And another view Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ditchman Posted August 11, 2014 Report Share Posted August 11, 2014 it is interesting to see the old designs from different parts of the country...........old boys have sat down over the years and thought about how to get movement into their decoy pattern..... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
m greeny Posted August 11, 2014 Report Share Posted August 11, 2014 I have a Ditchman manual flapper and must admit that when i first got it i was a bit sceptical but after using it a few times and realising how well it pulls the birds in i wouldmt leave home with out it Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ditchman Posted August 11, 2014 Report Share Posted August 11, 2014 I have a Ditchman manual flapper and must admit that when i first got it i was a bit sceptical but after using it a few times and realising how well it pulls the birds in i wouldmt leave home with out it you will never wear it out !!!....you will be able to pass it on in your will well done Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
malkiserow Posted August 11, 2014 Report Share Posted August 11, 2014 Don't you end up yanking your chain or rope when you really ought to be concentrating on the incoming birds ? Isn't the best one a battery flapper on an intermittent timer? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ditchman Posted August 11, 2014 Report Share Posted August 11, 2014 you stop "twitching" the braid 5-10 secs before you raise your gun................you cant get the specific movement if it is electrified Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dolphin Posted August 11, 2014 Report Share Posted August 11, 2014 I have a Ditchman manual flapper and must admit that when i first got it i was a bit sceptical but after using it a few times and realising how well it pulls the birds in i wouldmt leave home with out it you did the other day never mind you didnt need it atb dolphin Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fortune Posted August 12, 2014 Report Share Posted August 12, 2014 Don't you end up yanking your chain or rope when you really ought to be concentrating on the incoming birds ? Isn't the best one a battery flapper on an intermittent timer? If the birds see the mechanical flapper movement they sometimes set up to come in to the decoy pack a field away. They show that they are commited to the decoys and you dont need to flap any more because you've got them hooked. Sometimes if you carry on flapping it puts them off. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
masmiffy Posted August 12, 2014 Report Share Posted August 12, 2014 I had a seamark flapper a mate 'borrowed' it for a pattern and I never did get it back!! Big lesson learned!!! Would love another so if you dont use and want rid let me know Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Hamster Posted August 12, 2014 Report Share Posted August 12, 2014 I have asked on here a few times about a drawing or a photograph of a manually operated flapper. Years ago I had one which was basically a wire cradle to hold a dead birds body , a spigot to rest its head on and two arms attached to operate wings. Pulled by a string going back to hide. Lent it to a mate , who moved house and never returned it. If anyone has a photograph or drawing ? I would love to make one for old times sake. I have even got Flycoys and an Apple floater so that gives my age away. RiP Tony Orchard. I have a DeadCert you can borrow to copy, can bring it to the ShootClay razzmatazz ? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pigeon controller Posted August 13, 2014 Report Share Posted August 13, 2014 I found these two in the back of my shed today one is plastic the other is a cast alloy. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ditchman Posted August 13, 2014 Report Share Posted August 13, 2014 those are interesting Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fortune Posted August 13, 2014 Report Share Posted August 13, 2014 I have one that I made myself based on the Sid Seemark design. This type of manual flapper is effective and works very well BUT there is a basic flaw in the concept of this type when using real pigeons. The flaw is the Chicken and egg situation that you need a bird being available to simulate landing flapping. Many times I have set up in a good position but because I haven’t had a pigeon available I have had to wait for ages for one to come in to start the cycle off. The next flaw is that it isn’t very long before the pigeon get stiff and wont flap so you go out and break the wing bones but the flapping action isn’t the same. To get over this I use a full bodied decoy with a set of painted foam wings. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pigeon controller Posted August 13, 2014 Report Share Posted August 13, 2014 I have one that I made myself based on the Sid Seemark design. This type of manual flapper is effective and works very well BUT there is a basic flaw in the concept of this type when using real pigeons. The flaw is the Chicken and egg situation that you need a bird being available to simulate landing flapping. Many times I have set up in a good position but because I haven’t had a pigeon available I have had to wait for ages for one to come in to start the cycle off. The next flaw is that it isn’t very long before the pigeon get stiff and wont flap so you go out and break the wing bones but the flapping action isn’t the same. To get over this I use a full bodied decoy with a set of painted foam wings. Your right , you can not use a fresh bird as rigormortis will cause the bird to stiffen . We would always use a thawed bird with perfect wing action . The benefit of this type is they always park in the closed position Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fortune Posted August 13, 2014 Report Share Posted August 13, 2014 I sort of bypassed the thawed out bird version with the above version. it isn't affected by rain ect and the foam wings work with very little resistance so the pull line doesn't frey on the guide loop. also to stop freying and breakage of the line ( which always happens when you've got trade going past) I grease the line which goes through the guide loop. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Hamster Posted August 14, 2014 Report Share Posted August 14, 2014 (edited) I have one that I made myself based on the Sid Seemark design. This type of manual flapper is effective and works very well BUT there is a basic flaw in the concept of this type when using real pigeons. The flaw is the Chicken and egg situation that you need a bird being available to simulate landing flapping. Many times I have set up in a good position but because I haven’t had a pigeon available I have had to wait for ages for one to come in to start the cycle off. The next flaw is that it isn’t very long before the pigeon get stiff and wont flap so you go out and break the wing bones but the flapping action isn’t the same. To get over this I use a full bodied decoy with a set of painted foam wings. I used to use my DeadCert which is perfectly OK with breaking the wings from the beginning. Regarding starting the process off most serious shooters have a dead bird in the freezer, personally I tend to stop off at different fields for a look even if I know where I'll end up and it's rare I can't bag one or more flying out of nearby trees. If you set up in the right place getting a flapper or two shouldn't take too long, if it does you're probably in the wrong spot or field. Edited August 14, 2014 by Hamster Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
malkiserow Posted August 14, 2014 Report Share Posted August 14, 2014 It looks to me that there are some interesting differences some pull straight from the front which may tend to pull the device over (if you are over enthusiastic) compared to the braid going back to the central support loop closer to the ground which looks more stable? Some look light weight and some look heavier some have detachable ground spikes and some don't Action differences - some pivot from the front and some from the back which may make the wing movement different - not sure if one is better or not? Any thoughts? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Penelope Posted August 15, 2014 Report Share Posted August 15, 2014 How about using a large ring of the type used on carp rods, welded or whipped on? Friction free! The two footed ones would be stronger. I sort of bypassed the thawed out bird version with the above version. it isn't affected by rain ect and the foam wings work with very little resistance so the pull line doesn't frey on the guide loop. also to stop freying and breakage of the line ( which always happens when you've got trade going past) I grease the line which goes through the guide loop. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ditchman Posted August 15, 2014 Report Share Posted August 15, 2014 i have a large ring on mine with stainless steel wire............ Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Salopian Posted August 16, 2014 Author Report Share Posted August 16, 2014 Thanks Guys, That is exactly like the one I used to have, nice to know I'm not the only one to lend one out for it never to be returned. I hope that you younger tyro's realise that there is much more to fieldcraft than hefting car batteries around ! I often take just a gun, 250 cartridges and six shell decoys , no magnet, no flappers and no hide. This last month I have had fantastic sport on 6 acres of swathed peas. They are still coming in twice a day in big numbers. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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