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Build the DIY SB spotter rig.


Dave-G
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It's seriously easy peasy chaps - the complicated parts are done for you.

Starting with one of these integral modules that is actually two machined ABS components solvent welded together through an ABS battery/switch/LCD monitor pod. It has a thread on the front part for an M42 thread 50mm SLR lens being suitable for most users.

DSCF1986_zps00d5aef1.jpg

You'll need a 30mm scope mount to fit here, Weaver top rail ones will simplify fitting an IR to the rig later:

DSCF1990_zps80eb7736.jpg

Drill and tap the mount underside to 6mm - Or 1/4" 20 if you wish to use a camera tripod or suction mount:

DSCF1968_zpsd8b133a8.jpg

Order a twin 18650 battery holder - making sure it's a serial format one rather than a parallel one:

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/PLASTIC-BATTE ... 1511623596

If you are going to use recovered laptop 18650 unprotected cells you can use it as it comes. If you propose to use protected cells which are longer you may need to cut the battery holder and glue it extended onto a piece of plywood or whatever:

DSCF2001_zps342abd7d.jpg

Fit a 2 pole mini switch of your preference, round ones are easiest because you only need to drill a hole to fit them.

Although the plug-and-play connectors of the E700 camera and LCD monitor are convenient for domestic CCTV applications they are a bit too bulky for our needs. Cut the E700 cable about 6" long and strip about 3" of the outer sheath off. Bear in mind that voids your warranty though.

Strip about 10mm off all the individual wire ends.

I use Futabo servo extension leads cut in half to connect to the LCD monitor:

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/230778159005


Although solder joints are best, these are very low current items so strip connectors could be used for both the cable joining and the switch connectors:

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Connector-Str ... 1016800984

Connect/solder the red wire from the battery to one terminal of the switch.
Twist together the remaining two red wires (from the camera and half of the servo cable) and connect/solder them to the other terminal of the switch. That completes the positive power supply.

You have three black wires - twist them all together and solder/heatshrink tube them - or use the strip connectors. You should ensure all of the metal part of the wire is contained inside the connector. That completes the negative or ground circuit.

You now have two signal cables - yellow from the camera and the white one that is part of the servo cable, join them together in the same way as the others:

DSCF2007_zps4b14d530.jpg

That white ABS bush is made with the hole just right to correctly align the E700 camera at the required focal distance from the M42 SLR lens. Lightly glue it in place with two dabs of hot melt glue or silicone rubber adhesive and plug in the cable:

DSCF2017_zps09c2475d.jpg

I solder and heatshrink the LCD monitor cables but they could be twisted and taped up in a similar way you did the others:

DSCF2020_zpsbeb5ef4f.jpg

Wind the focus adjustment of the lens out (makes it longer) and fit the lens to the front of the module;

DSCF2021_zps726aee35.jpg

Fit your 18650 batteries - or CR123 batteries should do too, making sure the flat end of the battery goes to the springs.

Fit a handle or suction mount into the mount base as required and Bob's yer uncle. icon_clap.gif


M42 fitting 50mm lenses are Cheap as chips: http://www.ebay.co.uk/sch/i.html?_odkw= ... acat=78997
F1.8 ones are good but lower F numbers are better - there are sometimes F1.7 ones about, F1.4 will be even better

E700 camera from Sure24.

Feel free to ask me to clarify anything - or point out any errors.
I'm slightly dyslexic and I know what I meant to say but it might not be clear to you, in which case it might not be clear to others too.

 

Edit: Here's a twin screen one I custom made for someone:

 

Edited by Dave-G
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Interesting. What screen do you use? I'll not sure how you are powering it? I thought two 18650 would only give 7v? All the screens I have seen require 9-24v DC and I thought the E700 were 12v?

I've ran several of the rigs non stop for over three hours using recovered laptop cells that don't 'protectively' shut off the current because they are unprotected cells.

 

There are alleged issues recharging well discharged unprotected cells in series, but I recharge them separately and have had no problems. I'd say just take a spare pair with you if you use protected cells because they shut down at a certain voltage.

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Dave,where do you get your screens,I have had 2 screens this week of the bay.1st one just came on intermittently so got refund.Second one I orderd came today and you get the faintest of flicker when powered up but the screen is just black.I know power supply is fine as I havd a 7inch monitor that powers up fine off the same supply.I might have to just use the 7inch which I dont really want to do for a spotter, but just sick at the moment.

This may be a long shot but I am waiting for an E700 so just testing the monitor on its own.Is it poss that the monitor is waiting to detect this?But then my 7inch comes on with ok cam attached.aaaaaah

NOTE no cables have been cut so powering up straight from the box

Edited by Davyo
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Hi chaps - yes I supply built ones too - I ought to have put a price up - sorry. :blush:

 

I generally keep one spotter and one 'No Scope' rifle rig available - and currently have one of each.

 

As seen in this video that I forgot to post up - they are available from £280, buyer pays the cost of fund transfers and £6 RMSD, so figure about £300 posted.

I do not and will not supply batteries.

 

EDIT: Price includes an option of solid handle, tripod or suction mounts;

 

700spot_zpsf4be64e3.jpg

 

The first video below deliberately shows about the worst possible ambient light conditions for its performance without artificial illumination. It's my belief that a spotter ought to be assessed by that criteria as well as how it spots with illuminators.

 

The second video shows about the best it will perform with a better lens, so assume the basic spotter is not quite as good with the cheaper lens. Try and imagine it off the rifle without the built in crosshair. When I get a better DVR again I will put up an improved ambient light one specifically from the spotter.

 

 

Edited by Dave-G
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Dave,where do you get your screens,I have had 2 screens this week of the bay.1st one just came on intermittently so got refund.Second one I orderd came today and you get the faintest of flicker when powered up but the screen is just black.I know power supply is fine as I havd a 7inch monitor that powers up fine off the same supply.I might have to just use the 7inch which I dont really want to do for a spotter, but just sick at the moment.

This may be a long shot but I am waiting for an E700 so just testing the monitor on its own.Is it poss that the monitor is waiting to detect this?But then my 7inch comes on with ok cam attached.aaaaaah

NOTE no cables have been cut so powering up straight from the box

I had a spot of bad luck with some Chinese suppliers who packed them loose - the mounting brackets smashed the screens but I didn't notice that on initial inspection. I only found out when I used one in a build - so checked the others too.

 

I have found a good price UK supplier for them but have not tested them yet:

 

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/371100432149

 

EDIT: Some monitors are built to only come on when the car is put into reverse - so detect a camera signal before operating.

Edited by Dave-G
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I had a spot of bad luck with some Chinese suppliers who packed them loose - the mounting brackets smashed the screens but I didn't notice that on initial inspection. I only found out when I used one in a build - so checked the others too.

 

I have found a good price UK supplier for them but have not tested them yet:

 

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/371100432149

 

EDIT: Some monitors are built to only come on when the car is put into reverse - so detect a camera signal before operating.

So it quite possible that the 2nd camera is fine and should power up once the E700 is connected.

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I also supply just the battery/monitor pods on their own - so they will suit other types of NV build too;

 

 

for those looking at the housings on their own, i ordered one this week and it arrived the following day, i know their not cheap when compared to housing on ebay for a few quid but Daves are different and well worth the money, not just because their a perfect fir for the screen (and they are!) but the material isnt shiny like most housings you buy, its very well made and nice and strong.. im a tight sod but im more than happy with daves housing :good:

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I'm clearly not very good at this advertising lark - I forgot to say the price includes options of a solid handle, tripod that doubles up as a handle, or a camera suction mount that fits to a smooth painted roof, windscreen or door mirror. Some electric door mirrors will allow limited pan and tilt. :)

 

700spot_zpsf4be64e3.jpg

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  • 2 weeks later...

Ordered one of these housings from Dave very pleased with it is all I can say battery and monitor all contained in a compact stylish housing excellent work Dave makes a great hand held spotter unit with ease of access to the battery's keep the ideas coming and I will keep buying stuff from you well worth it

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Hey thanks for that Sean. :good:

 

Having found these switches to be reliable and quiet I got a few in stock. They can be screwed/self tapped into a 12mm hole if you have strong hands and fingers and will be included with the module at no extra cost.

Switches_zpsf5f2e350.jpg

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  • 2 weeks later...

Dave I want to try and build my own NV do you have a wiring diagram to do it and if you use a reversing camera monitor what wires do you use . I'm slow when it comes to wiring and I don't want to burn anything out..

Also how do I buy a couple of your housings.....

Thanks.... Tom

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I'm no good at wiring diagrams Tom - sorry.

 

Read the thread again maybe and you'll see it really is easy peasy:

 

The battery live goes to the switch. The power to the camera and monitor comes from the other terminal of the switch. All the blacks get connected together, leaving the yellow and white ones to join up.

 

I use servo extension cables cut into two for the monitor cabling.

 

The modules are £84 each, buyer pays the charges please.

 

My pp addi is davidgeorge69@btinternet.com

 

Cheers.

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Hey thanks for that Sean. :good:

 

Having found these switches to be reliable and quiet I got a few in stock. They can be screwed/self tapped into a 12mm hole if you have strong hands and fingers and will be included with the module at no extra cost.Switches_zpsf5f2e350.jpg

Hi Dave

Where do you get these switches from and whats the cost?

atb

Dave

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