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Plastic top hat and spring guide


ironhorse
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I bought from eBay Tinbum tuning parts for a HW80, fitted these parts as per instructions quote

( TbT kits are designed to be used in place of factory power washers, spring guides and top hats where fitted)

Quote (The slip washer is installed into the piston first, if you have made a sleeve the slip washer will hold it in place. Use a small amount of suitable airgun grease on the piston rod and the machined face of the washer. The top hat goes in next with a small amount of grease where it is in contact with the spring. After putting the (lightly greased) spring in, put a smear of grease on the shaft of the spring guide and insert into spring. Reassemble the gun and check power)

 

These instructions clearly state that Tinbum parts are to replace existing parts, at no point is there mention that some guns may have different working parts, I fitted as instructed and found the gun refused to cock and naturally assumed my new spring was the cause, so removed it and shortened it, but still the gun would not cock, after re-examining my parts and then Tinbum parts I found that the spring guide supplied was the cause of the gun not cocking, the spring guide supplied was the wrong fitment because it fitted over the piston skirt, but not as the original which when the gun is cocked slides within the piston, the Tinbum guide sitting on top of the piston skirt increased the length of the piston therefore the gun could not cock. I contacted Mr Stanning and explained the issue; Mr Stanning asked me to measure my piston, measure from the skirt to the end of the rod, this I did and it measured 25mm, Mr Stanning said the one I have here in front of me measures 30mm so your piston rod has been shortened at some point to increase power, I explained the factory fitted spring guide fits within the piston when the gun cocks not on the outside of the piston, Mr Stanning said he would make another spring guide but reduce the skirt in depth to leave only a 1mm skirt on it to sit on the piston skirt. I thanked Mr Stanning and a couple of days later the new spring guide arrived, I fitted it but I have to say I was not impressed and felt this will not work, but anyway put the gun back together and took it out to try it, after the 5th shot the gun refused to cock, took it apart again the spring guide refused to come out so I had to push it out with a screw driver, the top hat was now in bits, then I examined my piston which now has a 18mm long gouge in it and the same gouge on the inside of the piston sleeve, obviously this damage was caused because the spring guide did not keep the piston level as the original would being inside the piston, My spring was not abnormal having carefully fashioned it as to shop bought manor. I have since checked another supplier of these polypropylene parts and he makes the correct spring guide which fits as the original does. The moral of this is don’t believe what you read if it is different it is wrong pour and simple. I would have put this down to experience and left it at that until I read this.

 

Using these part s end result damage to my gun and out of pocket, Spring/ P/P

 

 

  • Reply by tbt-airgun-tuning (19-Jul-15 08:47):

Buyers! If you don't know what you're doing, please contact me before guessing!post-10711-0-43253500-1437298159_thumb.jpgpost-10711-0-32046500-1437298203_thumb.jpg

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Yeah he said he’s sold over 300 kits for HW80 without any problems coming back, but that still doesn’t pigeon hole every HW80, there are variations obviously , and for me that also doesn’t excuse the man trying to justify his product damaging my gun, by making the accusation that I don’t know what I am doing.

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When i got mine he said to drop the tophat into the piston then drop the spring guide in to make sure the guide goes all the way down and rests on the rim of the piston otherwise it wont cock

If you look at your original spring metal guide, if it is like mine the metal guide will drop inside your piston, the replacement plastic guide is not the same, it is made to sit on top of the skirt of the piston, by sitting on top of the piston skirt you now have 3mm extra height and that extra for me would not now allow my piston to reach the trigger lock.

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He made a new spring guide and reduced the 3mm top by 2mm leaving 1mm to sit on the skirt of the piston, this new guide and the first guide supplied both made to sit on the skit of the piston are wrong, the guide should pass into the piston not sit on the top, by sitting on the skirt I believe the new guide caught on the screw thread that holds the block that holds everything in, when the gun was fired and then when I cocked the gun again the piston now loose in the carrier dug in and damaged the gun. I will be talking to a professional gunsmith this week and I will be putting this question to him, I’m sure I know what he will say but I will let you know.

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So the piston sleeve was not held in by the main spring!

 

The gouges will polish out and not affect anything.

Yes I know I can lose the gouges and they shouldn’t affect the usage being at the back end. The gun was assembled spring was in place but once the gun was fired and the pressure was off the guide, the piston had that movement, the guide remained jammed in the screw threads, and cocking the gun then forced everything back into place or not as the case appears to be.

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You would not have this problem with a v-mach kit

Probably not the old story I suppose you get what you pay for, I did find after the fact a chap in South Wales who makes the correct fittings, I read good reviews on the first supplier on ebay but hay you live and learn all the time.

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I have a Tinbum kit in mine, and had no problems . Sorry to hear you have.

Yes thought I had struck gold with Tinbum prices, but ended up costing me allot more. The plastic used was very brittle, high quality polypropylene doesn’t shatter, it will bend, and dent, and scrape, I’ve used polypropylene myself for moulding and it has been damaged at times, but never broken up. Glad you had better results.

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  • 4 years later...

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