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Not over kill depends on how far away the light is , as above you should terminate the armour in to a metal junction box water proof use the grey as the earth and sheath it in earth sleeve blue for the black

Wot size is the armoured 4mm ,would have been better in 1.5 but never mind

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I'm not trying to dismiss the reasoning behind Part P, more trying to offer a safe,yet legal solution for the OP.

 

Aaah,the good old days when you and a mate could rewire a place... Put in a cable outside for electric gates and change/ add some fused spurs.

I'm sure there was a need for the current ( no pun intended) legislation but it has made it more difficult for self installers!

Am I right in thinking you can still install as a 'Competant person' and then have the work signed off/ verified by either the Council building control or a Part P certified spark?

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I'm not trying to dismiss the reasoning behind Part P, more trying to offer a safe,yet legal solution for the OP.

Aaah,the good old days when you and a mate could rewire a place... Put in a cable outside for electric gates and change/ add some fused spurs.

I'm sure there was a need for the current ( no pun intended) legislation but it has made it more difficult for self installers!

Am I right in thinking you can still install as a 'Competant person' and then have the work signed off/ verified by either the Council building control or a Part P certified spark?

Yes but a part p certified cannot sign som one else's work of , he can sign PIR reports if he/she is qualified to do so
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A little birdy told me that just like gas works I can do whatever I want in my own property provided I am deemed competent( and like the gas regs there is no definition of "competent" within the regs)? Gas regs are concerned solely with the responsibilities of employers and employees but I have never read the electric regs or any of this part p but I understand part p is generalised and not specifically aimed at any one trade? Or were they telling me porkies?

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Don't use the grey as earth, use the black. After european harmonisation of core colours we now use the black as earth to avoid confusion. You must also ensure the metal sheath is connected to earth. As said connect to a metal conduit box or suitably ip rated box and tag the earth to the back of it, if you've glanded it off properly you'll get good continuity. Get your self some ip rated glands to to prevent any water ingress into the cable or joint

 

Not over kill depends on how far away the light is , as above you should terminate the armour in to a metal junction box water proof use the grey as the earth and sheath it in earth sleeve blue for the black

Wot size is the armoured 4mm ,would have been better in 1.5 but never mind

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I am a time served Electrician but not Part P qualified.

When I modernised the house I live in now I did the rewire myself and also installed the combi boiler and new heating system.

This was all done under council planning permission and building regs due the the extension on the back of the house.

I had the electrics tested by a contracting company qualified to do so and they gave me a booklet with all the test results entered. This cost £80.00 which was very reasonable .

I had the boiler tested and certified by a gas safe engineer who gave me as test certificate .This was again reasonable at £40.00.

These where handed to the council who where then happy to sign off the work that had been done .

 

If you are competent I see no reason doing it this way so long as you get it tested for your own and family's benefit

 

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The trouble is if you do the work yourself and some one else tests and signs it off then the person signing it off becomes responsible for the installation. I personally would only sign off work carried out by others with limitations. Example would be visible wiring only when it comes to cable size, wiring zones and cable joints to name but a few

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