Brodie Posted November 1, 2015 Report Share Posted November 1, 2015 I've recently bought my first semi-auto (Remi 11-47) and have had varying advice on wether to lube the action or leave it dry. The idea of the gas valve piston running metal to metal dry seems alien to me but I would appreciate advice from the experienced. If lubing it what do you use; i tend to use Ballistol for everything on my O/U. The gun will be used in a clean environment - not dirty/dusty. Thanks Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GingerCat Posted November 1, 2015 Report Share Posted November 1, 2015 I'm sure someone will correct me but every auto I've ever had (even fully auto assault rifles when serving her majesty) appreciated a rub with an oily rag and little more. If they are too wet they gunk up and jam, too try and they do similar. Just a wipe seems to do the job. The 390 I have don't seem to care to much and I reckon your gun will be similar. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
B25Modelman Posted November 1, 2015 Report Share Posted November 1, 2015 I have Brownings Gun spray. Spray and wipe excess off. I am also using 3 in 1 on the bolt slides. Not sure what yet to use to get fouling off. Maybe Napier Gun Cleaner lubricant. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bluebarrels Posted November 1, 2015 Report Share Posted November 1, 2015 I always put lube on my semi,never go in dry BB Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Savhmr Posted November 1, 2015 Report Share Posted November 1, 2015 Teflon spray dry-lube is by all accounts fine to use and resistant to high temperatures too. I only ever clean out the gas piston (never lube it) and just wipe the piston rod down with a very lightly oiled rag. The previous owner did the same and the gun's been going strong for 16 years so I guess that answers the question for me The breach slider mechanism gets cleaned and re-oiled after every outing though. I've not had mine long, but have tried all sorts of cartridges in it (including some it wasn't meant to cycle!) and it cycles everything fine from 28g 65mm loads to 32g 70mm loads. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest cookoff013 Posted November 1, 2015 Report Share Posted November 1, 2015 Benelli lube yes Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
johnnytheboy Posted November 1, 2015 Report Share Posted November 1, 2015 The proof is in the pudding of your gun cleaning when it gets really cold, oils etc solidify. I find the worst to be the multi purpose oils such as browning liega. They are a solvent oil/cleaner and simply are great for both under normal circumstances but show them some real cold and they show their true colours! I think your best to give it a wipe with a lightly oiled rag, not spray, ensure its fully synthetic mill spec, store barrel down as well after cleaning. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Wiggum Posted November 1, 2015 Report Share Posted November 1, 2015 I use GT85 which is a "dry" lube never had any issues with my A400 using this, it doesn't collect all the unburnt powder and dust. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
figgy Posted November 1, 2015 Report Share Posted November 1, 2015 WD40 dry ptfe spray in the action before every trip out. Another good lube is graphite powder as it won't gunk and the excess blows away. Don't oil the gas valve or tube it slides on as it will burn and carbon up, no oil and the residue is just a powder that cleans off easily. Never seen a semi auto instruction manual that says do not lubricate the slide rails, everyone I've read states they must be given a light coating of lube. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sitsinhedges Posted November 1, 2015 Report Share Posted November 1, 2015 You shouldn't put oil anywhere near where the propellant gases go or you just make a messy abrasive carbon paste that clogs things up. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pistol p Posted November 1, 2015 Report Share Posted November 1, 2015 I use legia spray oil on all moving parts, not too much just enough to leave nice sheen. I use a piece of scotch pad as well to clear the carbon build up and help hone the magazine tube. Never had a problem. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DaveyTed Posted November 1, 2015 Report Share Posted November 1, 2015 Thanks for all your replies, much appreciated. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
throdgrain Posted November 1, 2015 Report Share Posted November 1, 2015 Do you mean an 11-87? Assuming you do, American accepted wisdom tends to say a bit of lube is not a bad thing. I put a couple of big drops of Lucas gun oil on the moving slide of my 11-87, and did so on my 1100 previously too. I always clean and re-apply after every shoot, normally 75 to 100 rounds. For what it's worth my gun is very very reliable, at least as much as the Benelli M2 I had a while before the 1100, which failed after only 3 years. I'm not saying a Remington won't fail, it will, but on the plus side you can buy the parts cheaply and readily, and so put the gun back into use very quickly. A great gun for my money. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wabbitbosher Posted November 1, 2015 Report Share Posted November 1, 2015 I'm sure someone will correct me but every auto I've ever had (even fully auto assault rifles when serving her majesty) appreciated a rub with an oily rag and little more. If they are too wet they gunk up and jam, too try and they do similar. Just a wipe seems to do the job. The 390 I have don't seem to care to much and I reckon your gun will be similar. I've said this all along but i keep getting put right by "GUN SMITHS" saying they are built to run dry To be honest i Always give them a wipe with oil or a quick squirt of Browning spray, they always cycle Fine in my 30 odd years Mechanical experience Two bits of metal (or anything else No Pun or inuendo) rubbing together NEED LUBRICATION ! or they get hot or wear / Blister /Jam LUBE IT !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! Jam is prety sexy nom nom nom Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
chris1961 Posted November 2, 2015 Report Share Posted November 2, 2015 My fabarm falconett loves oil a couple of drops on the gas ram quick wipe and she is ready tried ruining it dry loads of miss cycling oil it sound anything above and including 28 gram fine Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fortune Posted November 2, 2015 Report Share Posted November 2, 2015 (edited) The proof is in the pudding of your gun cleaning when it gets really cold, oils etc solidify. I find the worst to be the multi purpose oils such as browning liega. They are a solvent oil/cleaner and simply are great for both under normal circumstances but show them some real cold and they show their true colours! I think your best to give it a wipe with a lightly oiled rag, not spray, ensure its fully synthetic mill spec, store barrel down as well after cleaning. I used spray grease on my pump slides to quieten it down a bit and when I took it out in the snow it the hammer had been slowed down so much that it wouldn't fire the primers. I had to carry a non operating pump action fence post around all afternoon on the rough shoot. if I had known what had happened I could have gone back to the vehicle and sloshed a bit of petrol into the works or warmed up the action and it would have fired all ok Edited November 2, 2015 by fortune Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
B25Modelman Posted November 2, 2015 Report Share Posted November 2, 2015 In short, it's all in the manufacturers manual for that gun or should be. Well it certainly is for the Maxus where there is much info on cleaning, maintenance and lubrication of the specific parts. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TIGHTCHOKE Posted November 2, 2015 Report Share Posted November 2, 2015 A wipe over with an oily cloth so that a thin coating is left is all that is required. Leave any more and it will all turn to black gunk. Wipe off after shooting and re-apply another thin coat of clean oil. A simple routine to adopt. And don't forget to clean out your gas ports with a suitable sized drill bit! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sportsbob Posted November 2, 2015 Report Share Posted November 2, 2015 GT85 PTFE dry lube, why you might ask well put simply it works and you can get it from Halfords on a Sunday if yo run out. I have used all sorts on semi auto shotguns over the years and I must say the GT85 seems to be doing just fine, I have also found once a film has built up after a couple of uses cleaning is so easy. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DaveyTed Posted November 2, 2015 Report Share Posted November 2, 2015 In short, it's all in the manufacturers manual for that gun or should be. Well it certainly is for the Maxus where there is much info on cleaning, maintenance and lubrication of the specific parts. Having downloaded the manual, it says strip, clean and dry. The only lube mentioned is oil the trigger. Thanks again for all the response. Much appreciated. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rovercoupe Posted November 2, 2015 Report Share Posted November 2, 2015 If its the same recoil action as the 1100 then be very careful of leaving it dry, I did this once on mine and did not use it as was waiting for some parts and after a month rust started forming on the mag tube so now it gets a good wipe down and if its not getting used then a good amount of oil is left in the action. a quick rub down with a oiled rag on the internals after use is enough unless its been in the rain. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
djgeoff Posted November 2, 2015 Report Share Posted November 2, 2015 I use GT85 which is a "dry" lube never had any issues with my A400 using this, it doesn't collect all the unburnt powder and dust. yep i use this too really good on my urika Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kenholland Posted November 2, 2015 Report Share Posted November 2, 2015 w d type from any £1 shop I just keep the gas valve area dry. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Saltings Posted November 2, 2015 Report Share Posted November 2, 2015 if you want to mix your own oil (edds red) equal parts of, atf fluid ,kerosene/heating oil, oil based paint thinners and if you need it for cleaning 1 part acetone works good for me and does not gum up in cold weather cheap as chips American military have been using this for years Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
impala59 Posted November 2, 2015 Report Share Posted November 2, 2015 I've always used motor oil, GTX or similar, previously on a Remington 1100 which I used in practical shotgun (also a brief spell with a Franchi SPAS 12 -remember them? heavy, unwieldy, ugly things) The reason, motor oil is more heat resistant. Just a smear when finished with cleaning and I often shot matches with 150 plus shots and no problems. Now back into shooting after a long break and taking it easy with sporting clays and a Hatsan Escort I still use my old ways, thorough cleaning, light oiling, it works for me Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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