FalconFN Posted May 7, 2016 Report Share Posted May 7, 2016 Any quick and simple tips on filling rust holes in thin sheet steel? I'm rebuilding a old Ransomes ride on mower and the covers range from being pitted to being swiss cheese. I need a simple and cost effective fix so was thinking riveted patches or some sort of metal putty (?) for small holes and some sort of mesh and filler for groups of holes? I only have an arc welder so that's out. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ditchman Posted May 7, 2016 Report Share Posted May 7, 2016 cut out all the rot.........cut and fit new metal.................then take it to a garage and they will spot weld it for beer money......... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FalconFN Posted May 7, 2016 Author Report Share Posted May 7, 2016 Unfortunately there wouldn't be much left if I did that. It's nothing structural so I am more interested in waterproofing rather than cosmetics. I've got the Kubota engine running again and the drive and cylinder is under control, but the 'bodywork' is the only stumbling block. Sorry, meant to say thanks for the advice - I'm sure that is the best way to do it too. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
figgy Posted May 7, 2016 Report Share Posted May 7, 2016 Get some fiber glass sheets and resin and coat the whole thing with it,it will add some strength and keep out the weather. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ditchman Posted May 7, 2016 Report Share Posted May 7, 2016 Get some fiber glass sheets and resin and coat the whole thing with it,it will add some strength and keep out the weather. that is about it !............use mesh first...then build up a couple of layers... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rovercoupe Posted May 7, 2016 Report Share Posted May 7, 2016 Find a finerglass supplier and they will have all the stuff you need and a lot cheaper than most automotive places. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
old'un Posted May 7, 2016 Report Share Posted May 7, 2016 Get some fiber glass sheets and resin and coat the whole thing with it,it will add some strength and keep out the weather. Yep...that's the way to go, you can then sand and paint it, make sure you wear some rubber gloves, resin is a nightmare to get off your hands. Good luck FN Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
grrclark Posted May 7, 2016 Report Share Posted May 7, 2016 As figgy said glass fibre over the top and if you want a fine finish add a gel coat, sand and paint Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
harpoonlouis Posted May 7, 2016 Report Share Posted May 7, 2016 For restoration I use lead filler over tinning compound then file off excess. Gives a nice solid feel to thin sheet and all done at lower temperature than welding. Not for structural sections obviously. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bostonmick Posted May 7, 2016 Report Share Posted May 7, 2016 Belzona Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FalconFN Posted May 7, 2016 Author Report Share Posted May 7, 2016 Great, thanks all. I'll glass fibre the Swiss cheese, but I think I'll find an alternative for the one or two small holes that are on top - steel epoxy maybe? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
scotslad Posted May 7, 2016 Report Share Posted May 7, 2016 Would u not just use catalloy paste rather than fibre glass? Would fibre glass even bond to the sheet metal like that Just mix it up and smeer it on and u can sand it easily. I got a 3.5l tub for 25 quid so cheap as chips, can be dear in smaller tubs in garages/halfords Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TONY R Posted May 7, 2016 Report Share Posted May 7, 2016 For restoration I use lead filler over tinning compound then file off excess. Gives a nice solid feel to thin sheet and all done at lower temperature than welding. Not for structural sections obviously. THIS. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Lord Geordie Posted May 8, 2016 Report Share Posted May 8, 2016 I had great success by brushing away the rust with a wire wheel on a grinder, then fluxing the metal with a blow torch, and using plumbers solder to fill the holes! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
andypaint Posted May 8, 2016 Report Share Posted May 8, 2016 If it's the cutting deck it must me structurally solid metal, as soft rusty metal or fibreglass that shatters could proof fatal if you go over a stone or similar. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rodp Posted May 8, 2016 Report Share Posted May 8, 2016 If it was me I would fibreglass the inside then body filler the outside and flat off to finish. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jonny thomas Posted May 8, 2016 Report Share Posted May 8, 2016 For restoration I use lead filler over tinning compound then file off excess. Gives a nice solid feel to thin sheet and all done at lower temperature than welding. Not for structural sections obviously.it's 2016 i in 30 years in body shops have never seen anyone need to lead anything it's a reet faff and bloody time consuming if it's not cosmetic use fibreglass even on bigger holes you can always put some cardboard on the other side to stop it falling out when wet I'm sure you know but wear a mask when sanding fibreglass it's an unpleasant material Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FalconFN Posted May 8, 2016 Author Report Share Posted May 8, 2016 Thanks all, and thanks for a kind offer from Lewi76 for help with welding, but really the worst bits are too far gone so I'm looking for a replacement: I'll still fill this type of hole though: Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
scotslad Posted May 8, 2016 Report Share Posted May 8, 2016 I would just paint with one of those rust eating paints prime metal and then use body filler. But i'm no expert. But it would cover the holes in last 2 photos Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kent Posted May 8, 2016 Report Share Posted May 8, 2016 Lead loading is still done but only in better resto shops and on high end stuff It's not general run of the mill at all but very good when done right My neighbour deals in ransom mowers re- con stuff and parts the works Give us a list if you need owt I can bob over I use his machine shop a bit and do some welding for them Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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