Wingman Posted May 7, 2016 Report Share Posted May 7, 2016 Picked up an old A5 this week, from my research I think its a 1930 model (serial starts with 15) and is in fairly good cosmetic and mechanical condition. I bought it from a RFD and he let me try it before I purchased, it had a few problems cycling low power loads, but thanks to the legend that is Wabbitbosher I had purchased a set of spares including a recoil spring and various friction rings. Over the weekend I have cleaned her up and kind of fallen for the old girl, it just seems to mount and point so well and the history of the gun is really fascinating. I think I would like to get it properly stripped, cleaned and serviced and wondered if anyone could recommend a gunsmith that has experience of old A5's I could speak to and discuss getting it sorted? I reckon I could do some of it myself although my screwdrivers dont fit the ridiculously small slotted screws however Brownells list a specialised set for the A5. Any tips etc as always gratefully received, very tempted to leave my clay gun in the cabinet and take it out for tomorrows clay shooting, but just a bit worried if it fails to cycle properly. Cheers Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
figgy Posted May 7, 2016 Report Share Posted May 7, 2016 They were not designed to shoot light loads, strip and clean it like any semi auto and relube it. Make sure your cartridges have enough punch to cycle the action. Sometimes work better when warmed up after a few rounds through them. Americans still use 32 gram loads on clays. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Blackpowder Posted May 7, 2016 Report Share Posted May 7, 2016 I can remember in the 1960's seeing adverts for second hand Browning semi autos as I think ex RAF used to teach air gunners to shoot moving targets on skeet ranges. Back then I suppose they would all be 5 shot. Blackpowder Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BlaserF3 Posted May 7, 2016 Report Share Posted May 7, 2016 Any good http://www.shotgunworld.com/images/BROWNINGA5DISASSEMBLY.pdf Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Wingman Posted May 7, 2016 Author Report Share Posted May 7, 2016 According to some of the American websites it should cycle 1oz loads if the friction rings are setup the right way. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
johnnytheboy Posted May 7, 2016 Report Share Posted May 7, 2016 Problem solving manual http://www.midwestgunworks.com/field_service_manual/browning_auto_5_field_service_manual.pdf You could use higher power light loads, my velocity test will give you an idea, the faster the go generally the more kick you'll get off them to assist the A5 action Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Wingman Posted May 7, 2016 Author Report Share Posted May 7, 2016 Any good http://www.shotgunworld.com/images/BROWNINGA5DISASSEMBLY.pdf Yes seen this really useful info. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
saddler Posted May 7, 2016 Report Share Posted May 7, 2016 They were not designed to shoot light loads, . Weren't they? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
johnnytheboy Posted May 7, 2016 Report Share Posted May 7, 2016 Can add a wee point, my A5 light cycles some 30g loads with the brass ring forward away from the butt but not all, only high power ones. I had a thought, my A5 magnum has two brass rings half the size of my A5 light that you put forward of the Spring for 3" loads. I am going to try one of these in the A5 light to see if it will handle all 30g loads but still offering enough friction! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TONY R Posted May 7, 2016 Report Share Posted May 7, 2016 (edited) On a short chamber A5 strip the fore end off remove the barrel, friction bush spring collar and spring, clean the mag tube tourghly. Refit the collar with the bevel facing the reciever, then refit the spring and put a little lm grease on the mag tube the friction bronze bushwith a little more lm grease inside the bush bore, refit the barrel forend and forend cap making sure you tighten the cap firmly. This will cycle light loads set up like this and lubed in such a way. My little lad has a 3 inch magnum it has a couple of bushes and is a bit more complex to abjust for various powerd loads but is still capable of shooting super light loads just the same. Edited May 7, 2016 by TONY R Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Wingman Posted May 7, 2016 Author Report Share Posted May 7, 2016 Thanks Tony R. So your saying that the bevel edge of the brass friction ring should be reversed from what the manual says? Ie facing the stock not the muzzle? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TONY R Posted May 7, 2016 Report Share Posted May 7, 2016 You should have barel bevel brass bush steel collar spring recieverer Right? Spring off clean Steel collar on bevel facing action up against reciever, then the spring up against the flat end of the steel collar, then brasss bush then bbarrel back on. The bush should be tapered at each end, if its flat one end its probably one off a franchi or breda perehaps, you can fit it flat end in to the barrel bevel, but it will bang back pretty hard then, If there is no rear Collar run it like i said, and try and get the right bits, i know where there is a scrap A5 if you need friction bits let me know, whatever they cost me you get them for, he is a mate so he will look after me. If your still not dsure photo the bits you have quickly post them here i will try and help advise you once i know exactly what you got there. Ill be up till about 1145, and will look on here when i get back from feeding up about 730 in the morning. See if we cant get you going tomorrow. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
figgy Posted May 7, 2016 Report Share Posted May 7, 2016 Weren't they? Not the light loads we think of. I looked into them years ago as I liked them but reading on American sites they were designed for the American market. And light loads to them are 32 g Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TONY R Posted May 7, 2016 Report Share Posted May 7, 2016 Figgy they will run very light loads they truthfully will, its adjustment and with a little grease they work fine. THe long recoil guns are very good only the franchi 48 still left in long recoil now but only in 20 and 28 bore last i heard. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
figgy Posted May 8, 2016 Report Share Posted May 8, 2016 Tony R your right they will run them with a bit of tinkering and well lubed up but were not designed to shoot the light loads we use. We all have tried our autos with loads they're not supposed to shoot, some 31/2" semi autos will fire light 65mm carts. Every semi auto I've had would not run light recoiling clay loads with a dry action they would run big powerful loads dry, they had to be run wet to shoot lighter loads. Hopefully the op gets his sorted to shoot his normal cartridges. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TONY R Posted May 8, 2016 Report Share Posted May 8, 2016 (edited) Agree to be fair on the a 5s franchis etc, at least you nstand a chance to get them to cycle tame stuff, i have an old B80 gasser its the lads realy, but i have tried and tried to get it to work with a slow big lead shot load, but will it heck cycle. I like the Baikal system adjustable manualy and goes silly tame reliably if you spin it out a few turns. Wish they did a ten i would have one. Edited May 8, 2016 by TONY R Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Wingman Posted May 8, 2016 Author Report Share Posted May 8, 2016 Thanks all, thought I would post some pics in case anyone can comment on the friction ring setup or general age etc... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
figgy Posted May 8, 2016 Report Share Posted May 8, 2016 Nice looking gun with nice timber. Use good engine oil as the lubricant for the tube and friction rings. Is the brass ring the right way round bevel wise? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Wingman Posted May 8, 2016 Author Report Share Posted May 8, 2016 (edited) Nice looking gun with nice timber. Use good engine oil as the lubricant for the tube and friction rings. Is the brass ring the right way round bevel wise?Thanks figgy, wood us nicely figured I plan to refinish the stock at some point. Chequering is virtually worn smooth though not sure what to do about that. As for the direction of the ring i think so, bevel is supposed to face the muzzle as far as I know. Edited May 8, 2016 by Wingman Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
johnnytheboy Posted May 8, 2016 Report Share Posted May 8, 2016 Mines has a bevelled ring between the bronze and the Spring. Must stop the Spring damaging the soft bronze. Set in this position it only cycles some 30g loads Use the lightest oil possible on the magtube etc, get rid of any grease or heavy oil, the cleaner it all is the less oil in the friction system the less recoil the gun will give you. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TONY R Posted May 8, 2016 Report Share Posted May 8, 2016 Johny the bay has it you ar missing the rear collar, its not under the spring up against the reciever is it? Dont look like it from the pics but can not tell. This video shows the back steel ring clearly in factr it shows the friction ring set up too, wish we had found it sooner, better than us all trying to put it in to words, its a remington but same gun basicly. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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