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Freelander 2


steve_b_wales
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I went to open the boot last night after getting out of the vehicle, but it remained closed. I pressed the boot bit on the fob, which usually opens it, but nothing. I tried to lock the vehicle again by pressing the fob, but the horn sounded, which indicated that something was open, (the boot) but it remained tightly shut. This meant that I couldn't lock the doors using the fob. I read that the doors could be locked by using the emergency key, but when I tried this, I found that it would only unlock the doors. I then read on the Freel2 forum that the boot could be opened by pressing the open/lock buttons on the dashboard simultaneously. I tried this, but still nothing.

Any idea's on what to do?

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hi, try pushing the boot door has if to normal close, if the car wont central lock ie alarm sounds,boot micro switch not making contact,you will have to get in the inside rear and take the rear door card off and release it manualy, pretty easy job to do , the manual hand switch release is well documented on freel 2 .com easy job to replace and cost for new switch and wireing harness around £30 .

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ok , sounds like you have the automatic opening rear door (5th) which they did 2008 .

1.

Can you hear it clunking at the solenoids / lock mechanism at the rear door when you press key fob or dash keys ?

if not , have you checked the fuses for tailgate ?

.

Try checking /replacing F25 fuse . #

 

fuse boxes located here + here :

Edited by mrwabbits
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On my d4 the boot release Handel had corroded and snapped a little lug it wasn't hitting the tiny micro switch. The rubber cover over the switch paddle simply pulled off with care . then I could press the switch with a small screwdriver . not sure if its similar for the freelander . just thought it might help .

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On my d4 the boot release Handel had corroded and snapped a little lug it wasn't hitting the tiny micro switch. The rubber cover over the switch paddle simply pulled off with care . then I could press the switch with a small screwdriver . not sure if its similar for the freelander . just thought it might help .

Not sure if it's the same. It's going into the local garage this morning so that they can do a diagnostic check on it to see what's gone wrong. Hope it don't cost me too much to repair. Thanks for your input though. :good:

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I had a 2011 Freelander 2 and this problem became quite frequent just before I got rid of it.I found it very annoying but I found the easiest way to overcome it was to open one of the back doors before opening the rear.I don't know why it made a difference, but it did.Give it a try.

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It went into the garage this morning and a diagnostic check revealed a few fault codes. Most were to do with the central locking on the front doors, and said they were intermittent. Nothing about the tailgate. I've now got to book it into an auto electric company to see what it costs to repair.

 

I'll try the above in the morning.

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Check the release/opening handle is not stuck in the open position (if they seize they need prised down with a screwdriver) If the handle is stuck in open position central locking will not release it

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Check the release/opening handle is not stuck in the open position (if they seize they need prised down with a screwdriver) If the handle is stuck in open position central locking will not release it

To be honest, I think that's causing the problem, because a warning comes on my dashboard stating that the tailgate is open, which won't let me lock the vehicle. I'll have a look in the morning. :good:

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UPDATE:

 

Well, the local auto electrics firm could not look at my vehicle for 'at least' 10 days, and he sounded like he didn't want to know. So I phone Stratstone in Cardiff, where I bought the vehicle. They said that there was a charge of £85 + VAT for the diagnostic check, but would be refunded if they did the repairs. They wanted me to bring it in next Friday, but when I said I was worried about leaving it unlocked, they then said to bring it down and they would take a look. The engineer took it and within 10 minutes, came back with the results. The cause of all the problems was the fuel cap locking switch. It had jammed in the lock position, and when the fob was pressed to open the vehicle, it blew a fuse, which the tailgate power was connected to.

The cost of renewing the switch was £30+VAT, + fitting. He showed me where the fuse was situated, and gave me a handful of them. Then he said that if I was going to have the repair done there, he would 'break' the lock so that I could lock the vehicle, but the fuel cap would remain unlocked. He said that a new lock comes with the switch anyway. I agreed to this, and my vehicle can now be locked, and the tailgate works. In fairness to Stratstone, they never charged me the diagnostic fee, and I now have to arrange to book it in for repair soon.

I'm happy with the result, even with their labour charge, it will be a lot less than I thought. :)

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I am tend to think that all of the doors on cars should have an external key option so that if there is ever a problem with the electronics keeping the doors locked you could always hand the keys out to someone so that they could unlock the door as I have said before my X-trail only has one keyhole and that is in the drivers door so if that side of my car was blocked or damaged I could not get out.

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I've booked my Freelander in for the repair with Stratstones. A bit expensive though at £130+VAT for a part that costs £36.00. But, if I don't take it there, then I am liable for the diagnostic charge which is £85+VAT, then I would have to purchase the part and get it fitted elsewhere.

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