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Foxing set up advice


SPC1517
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Hi gents,

 

I've only had my FAC for a few months and I'm looking for advice on if my set up is ok.

 

I've got a sako quad in .17HMR and. Sako A7 in .22250. I'm thinking of buying 2 x S&B klassic 8 x 56's to mount on each rifle which would be adequate for day time rabbit and fox control. The question I have, is could I successfully lamp on my own with a scope mounted lamp? And if so would a nigh master 800 with a red pill be good enough for this job? Or should I go down the NV route and inter change scopes as required?

 

I have also just purchased a pulsar XD38s thermal spotter, could I spot with this and then call fox's in and shoot them with a lamp mounted on the scope?

 

Thanks in advance gents

 

ATB

 

SPC

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You've got a thermal spotter your 90% there, I've got a 6.5 photon with nm800 IR and I shoot foxes with 222 out to 200 yds all night

For the price of em they are a tidy low budget piece of kit decent IR is the answer

 

If needs be decent QD mounts on all, swap em over quick zero shot and your ready. That way you can keep a decent day scope on the rifle whenever you want.

 

Patrol

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I really don't see the point in using IR, foxes round my way react to IR the same as white light.

But then I am plagued with numptie wannabes with all the gear no idea, paid their money out on expensive stuff only to find they can't connect, and in doing so messed the whole job up, not just for myself but also for two other local (big) shoots.

They are currently loosing their permissions to be on the land!

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I really don't see the point in using IR, foxes round my way react to IR the same as white light.

But then I am plagued with numptie wannabes with all the gear no idea, paid their money out on expensive stuff only to find they can't connect, and in doing so messed the whole job up, not just for myself but also for two other local (big) shoots.

They are currently loosing their permissions to be on the land!

 

I know someone else locally (and on here occasionally) who has found that foxes on one patch of land scarper as soon as a lamp or headlights touch a field, due to others lamping and missing. Fortunately they don't seem to be reacting to NV.

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Work to your budget mate. I started with just a scope mounted lamp on a Hawke scope with a CZ527 in .223. I accounted for a few foxes but you will always get those that are wary and dont present a shot.

 

NV/Thermal is great but has cost implications and you still need to use good fieldcraft (its not a magic pill). The key thing is not to educate foxes (dont miss basically) :lol:

 

I now have 2 set ups with NV:

 

Anschutz 1517 with a photon yukon + doubler , NM 400 ir

Howa 1500 in .243 with a Pulsar N750A, NM 800 IR

 

The only reason I was able to get these is that I got an ok redundancy payout and a new job straight after so had some spare cash. Good luck with whatever you decide to do buddy.

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.22,.22/250 and a .243 are my weapons. Ward 700 add on NV fits on to the back on any of the scopes (all different).

NM 800 IR fits on any of the scopes too.

 

Spotting with a 170 mm Lampforce with IR filter and a second hand Bresser monocular. (Purchased on PW for £50).

 

Sorted for all day and night shooting without changing anything.

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As you have the 22-250, you might find the XSearcher advantageous rather than the NM800. In either one, unless you've got some lamp shy ones about as mentioned, I rate the yellow pill - you lose very little range and they don't have the bright glare of the white. I'm probably showing my age and tired eyes here, but for the longer range rabbit which the HMR can easily handle, you might just consider something with a little more magnification on the HMR, possibly variable. Other than those possibilities and unless you want to throw money at it, you're well sorted.

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I really don't see the point in using IR, foxes round my way react to IR the same as white light.

But then I am plagued with numptie wannabes with all the gear no idea, paid their money out on expensive stuff only to find they can't connect, and in doing so messed the whole job up, not just for myself but also for two other local (big) shoots.

They are currently loosing their permissions to be on the land!

In 5 years of using nv with IR I've only had one that looked up at the IR and ran off. I had to wait for a full moon to get her. But put a normal lamp of any colour near them and they are gone and never even look back. Edited by bornfree
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I really don't see the point in using IR, foxes round my way react to IR the same as white light.

But then I am plagued with numptie wannabes with all the gear no idea, paid their money out on expensive stuff only to find they can't connect, and in doing so messed the whole job up, not just for myself but also for two other local (big) shoots.

They are currently loosing their permissions to be on the land!

So I'm no longer welcome :)

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If you're after fox at close quarters you've got to up your game on field craft, IR could have an effect if it's sitting on your boot

 

Out to 200 yds and spooked by an IR is probably down to a previous miss and or a bad time as far as the fox is concerned

 

If you miss you've gotta think outside the box sometimes to get the result, planning the visit, field craft, right position

 

I've got a perm near me where all sides of it are patrolled twice a week with the noisy lamp crew with shotguns , the foxes are so spooked about a lamp and noise, they are in the next county in a blink, it's all about waiting and planning your stalk with NV it gives you the edge

 

I've always found quietly quietly catchee monkey, if you've got to get it, get it , don't have a go at it

 

Best to see 2 and grass them rather then charge about and see 10 shoot one.

 

NV is a great tool

 

If you see em and can't get on em, best thing is to learn and plan your next recce, retreat quietly and find a solution

 

 

Patrol

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Lots of good advice, so cannot add much. I've been lamping and shooting foxes since the early seventies and seen most if not all. Most of my foxing these days is from a static position in a high seat over known routes. I rarely squeak, just let them come to me. A short whistle to stop them for a millisecond. I have the time so if they don't present themselves spot on the first night I will be there the next. Amazing the number of foxes I shoot in broad daylight and during that last thirty minutes before darkness falls this way. As I say, it is all about knowing your ground and where these foxes show. Research has shown they have a regular route around their territory. I do have a rifle mounted lamp and it has been with me for quite a while. I use an orange filter on that, but use another lamp with dark red filter for spotting. There is no doubt the thermal spotting units are useful but very expensive.

By the way ... I started out calling and lamping with a 22RF with a 12 volt battery carried in a shopping basket on foot, then went to #3 goose loads in a 12 gauge, then went to same in a 10 gauge when because of lamping pressure starting up foxes where getting sticky at 50yrds. Eventually converted to a string of 22 centrefires, then a 17 Rem which is my favourite today along with a 22BR. My best year was 327 on 2500 acres. I had a purpose built ATV in those days and was out and about three nights a week year round.

Edited by Walker570
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Lots of good advice, so cannot add much. I've been lamping and shooting foxes since the early seventies and seen most if not all. Most of my foxing these days is from a static position in a high seat over known routes. I rarely squeak, just let them come to me. A short whistle to stop them for a millisecond. I have the time so if they don't present themselves spot on the first night I will be there the next. Amazing the number of foxes I shoot in broad daylight and during that last thirty minutes before darkness falls this way. As I say, it is all about knowing your ground and where these foxes show. Research has shown they have a regular route around their territory. I do have a rifle mounted lamp and it has been with me for quite a while. I use an orange filter on that, but use another lamp with dark red filter for spotting. There is no doubt the thermal spotting units are useful but very expensive.

By the way ... I started out calling and lamping with a 22RF with a 12 volt battery carried in a shopping basket on foot, then went to #3 goose loads in a 12 gauge, then went to same in a 10 gauge when because of lamping pressure starting up foxes where getting sticky at 50yrds. Eventually converted to a string of 22 centrefires, then a 17 Rem which is my favourite today along with a 22BR. My best year was 327 on 2500 acres. I had a purpose built ATV in those days and was out and about three nights a week year round.

327 on 2500 acres, thats a lot of foxes mate.

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  • 2 weeks later...

Personally on foxes a red lens limits quarry ID to about 120 yards on my 170 lamp. I use green and amber lens on 170 and 240 lamps, this allows shots out to over 300 yards which at night is a very long way in my book.

 

I have also been trying an Xsercher, I thought white was a bit to bright so have put a green fillament into it. Have shot a couple of foxes with it but I think its only good for clear quarry is out to about 150 yards.

 

A

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  • 2 weeks later...

Never had much siuccess with the green lamp as I just cannot see it very well, favoured the amber as it didn't tend to spook the fox as street lamps were orange, but I then went Nv when budget allowed. Home build is a budget way to go NV and will punch well above its weight for resolution and distance.

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To be honest foxing really is only best done by NV nowadays.

 

That said I do shoot a handful in other ways each year.

Fair few who post on here have some really good success without NV. To be fair I have NV and only really use that for foxing. I think if you have paid out a good sum for NV you want to get your monies worth so tend to use this more then anything else.

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