Jump to content

Drain (sewage) help


HDAV
 Share

Recommended Posts

Got abit of a drain issue at the house we bought last year, seems the branch where we join the main drain isn't very good.

 

It looks like some of the benching has been washed away over the years and perhaps wasn't a great job when new.

 

Is this something that I/local builder can do or is it a water board specialist contractor?

 

Hoping this explains why the garden is so wet

post-21278-0-08085100-1469367470_thumb.jpeg

Edited by HDAV
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Don't think it has washed away , I think it was just to short to begin with , buy a rubber joint and see if you can acquire a few inch of soil pipe

If you was any closer mate I have a 6 m piece left from when I changed my clay to plastic when fitting new septic tank

http://www.google.co.uk/search?q=clay+pipe+plumbing&client=safari&hl=en-gb&source=lnms&tbm=isch&sa=X&ved=0ahUKEwjS6L_1tYzOAhVkKsAKHZLaAncQ_AUICigC&biw=1024&bih=672#imgrc=GFBaLwkZUgkYbM%3A

Edited by bullet1747
Link to comment
Share on other sites

you can bench that yourself in ten minutes. Use rapid set cement in the mortar min of a 4 and 1 mix as it's below ground. form the flow in the benching, a slight curve in the direction of flow. knock up the mortar in a bucket and get it in fairly quick. rapid sets quicker than my ex asks for child maintenance

Link to comment
Share on other sites

you can bench that yourself in ten minutes. Use rapid set cement in the mortar min of a 4 and 1 mix as it's below ground. form the flow in the benching, a slight curve in the direction of flow. knock up the mortar in a bucket and get it in fairly quick. rapid sets quicker than my ex asks for child maintenance

I was thinking the same, read that benching granola this mortar, grand? was stone dust 7:2 (dust and cement) or 6:1:2 with sand to make it erm something???

 

Rapid set available in small packs? I'd only need a small amount (less than half a bucket) mixed I recon as the ground is wet and there is sitting water in the gap do I need to dry it out first? How long to cure before normal service can resume?

Edited by HDAV
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Don't think it has washed away , I think it was just to short to begin with , buy a rubber joint and see if you can acquire a few inch of soil pipe

If you was any closer mate I have a 6 m piece left from when I changed my clay to plastic when fitting new septic tank

http://www.google.co.uk/search?q=clay+pipe+plumbing&client=safari&hl=en-gb&source=lnms&tbm=isch&sa=X&ved=0ahUKEwjS6L_1tYzOAhVkKsAKHZLaAncQ_AUICigC&biw=1024&bih=672#imgrc=GFBaLwkZUgkYbM%3A

thanks I would have to knock the concrete benching about to get a boot on and knowing my luck would crack the pipe and end up digging up the whole garden to replace. I had a feel around in the gap and haven't found any broken bits of pipe I might push a rod up stream and see how far it goes but the drains are what I expected as the bathroom and kitchen water (sink bath etc) don't seem to come through is line???

 

Need to check up stairs wc but can't run round quick enough lol!

 

 

This any good to fill the gap?

http://www.wickes.co.uk/Blue-Circle-Quick-Repair-Concrete-2-5kg/p/117654?CAWELAID=120135120001181912&CAGPSPN=pla&CAAGID=26712496372&CATCI=aud-162417460132:pla-77900740598&utm_source=google&utm_medium=cpc&utm_term=&utm_campaign=Google%20Shopping%20-%20Cement%20&%20Aggregates&tmcampid=&tmad=c&tmplaceref=K55vJ7fz&utm_content=sK55vJ7fz%7Cpcid%7C73770331732%7Cpkw%7C%7Cpmt%7C%7C

Edited by HDAV
Link to comment
Share on other sites

whip that broken bit out...tidy up...wack a rag up the other pipe to stop the poo-poos coming down the line ..and chuck yer mortar in and smooth off.............the motar should be good to go in 20 mins......then pull the rag out and left "the trains comes out of the tunnell"

Edited by ditchman
Link to comment
Share on other sites

whip that broken bit out...tidy up...wack a rag up the other pipe to stop the poo-poos coming down the line ..and chuck yer mortar in and smooth off.............the motar should be good to go in 20 mins......then pull the rag out and left "the trains comes out of the tunnell"

What broken bit?

 

Might have to warn next door......

Link to comment
Share on other sites

you can bench that yourself in ten minutes. Use rapid set cement in the mortar min of a 4 and 1 mix as it's below ground. form the flow in the benching, a slight curve in the direction of flow. knock up the mortar in a bucket and get it in fairly quick. rapid sets quicker than my ex asks for child maintenance

That's the way to do it .

 

Looks like it's been repaired before , there should be a slipper on the end of that bit of pipe . Or as previously said , poor work in the first place .

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I'm No expert but I seem to remember being told that the responsibility for drains has been transferred to the water authorities in the area. All you are now responsible for is the bit from the bog to the outside. Here is a link to a water authority. I expect that they are all controlled by the same legislation. So probably no need for you to get involved with repairing sewer manholes. Failing that go household insurance. That's what you have insurance for.

http://www.thameswater.co.uk/help-and-advice/8654.htm

Edited by fortune
Link to comment
Share on other sites

pipe will be usable within 30 mins if you use rapid and sand as opposed to the pre mixed tub. I think b and q do smaller bags of it. If the branch is from your property then there should be no need to bung it unless you have a practical joker in the house. Have a walk around your house, any bits of pointing need doing ? slabs or brickwork, or holes in either ? you will soon use up the mix once you spit any. As said, knock it up in a bucket at 4/1, add water to the mix until it sticks on the trowel. As it's going to need working add a capful of washing up liquid to the water. no need to remove the water the mortar will pus it out

Link to comment
Share on other sites

The channel has a crack in it right through bout 6" down. I wouldn't do it on a customers house but if it was mine I would use 4" grinder to cut5mm or so into the crack then would fill and smooth some bolt resin in it http://www.ironmongerydirect.co.uk/products/screws_and_fixings/chemical_fixings/11822/fischer_300_styrene_free_polyester_resin/773341?vat=1&shopping=true&gclid=CKnVjdPbjM4CFQs6GwodfpwIDw&gclsrc=aw.ds so long as you smooth it off so toilet roll wont catch it'll be ok. Otherwise it means knocking the channel out and re-placing with a new bit.Then re-point around the out flow pipe with rapid set cement

Link to comment
Share on other sites

That's the way to do it .

Looks like it's been repaired before , there should be a slipper on the end of that bit of pipe . Or as previously said , poor work in the first place .

What's a slipper?

 

I have some cracks in render would same mix be suitable to fill?

 

This any good?

http://www.screwfix.com/p/cementone-waterproof-cement-grey-10kg/58196

 

 

 

I wasn't to worried about the crack but if it is transferred then they should do it all? Should add the manhole is in my back garden

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Could have been fixed by now , everyone's spent long enough talking about it !!

 

Edited to add , a slipper is the open bit with a bend in it this aims the trains down the tunnel . Yours is missing but shouldn't be a problem if you just fill that hole and smooth every thing out .

Edited by cuffy
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.
Note: Your post will require moderator approval before it will be visible.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.

Loading...
 Share

  • Recently Browsing   0 members

    • No registered users viewing this page.
×
×
  • Create New...