Seadog1408 Posted February 2, 2017 Report Share Posted February 2, 2017 As the title, the gun was in a ****ty state after rough shooting yesterday and I wanted to clean the mud out of the vented rib, struggled a bit to get right inside the grooves, does one of you 100 year shooting veterans know of a magical or practical tool that would do or does the trick? Mike Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
blade Posted February 2, 2017 Report Share Posted February 2, 2017 I use a big feather with a bit of oil sprayed on it plenty kicking about for nothing Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wymberley Posted February 2, 2017 Report Share Posted February 2, 2017 Don't quite qualify, but how about a pipe cleaner? Always keep a few in the cleaning kit. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fortune Posted February 2, 2017 Report Share Posted February 2, 2017 (edited) In the cleaning stuff I have an old toothbrush, hold barrels across under hot water tap and scrub away. Then clean barrels in normal way using Ed's Red. Best gun cleaning fluid that there is. Here is some copied text about the stuff >>>>> "Ed's Red As a general bore cleaner, plastic wad remover, and carbon solvent the following formula, a creation of C.E Harris, and dubbed "Ed's Red" works quite well. In fact many folks claim it is better than anything they've tried. The original formula is: 1 part Dexron II, IIe or III Automatic Transmission Fluid - GM Spec D20265 or later 1 part K1 Kerosene 1 part Aliphatic Mineral Spirits federal spec TT-T-2981F (CAS# 64741-49-9) or Stodard Solvent/Varsol (CAS#8052-41-1) 1 part Acetone (CAS#67-64-1) Formula Addendum It has been reported that methyethylketone/MEK (CAS#78-93-3) can be satisfactorily substituted for the acetone if desired. It has been reported that Turpentine can be satisfactorily substituted for the Mineral Spirits if desired. The original Frankford Arsenal formula upon which Ed's Red is based used turpentine rather than mineral spirits which were substituted for lower cost. Turpentine also tends to leave a gummy residue. It has been reported that Kroil penetrating oil can be satisfactorily substituted for the kerosene if desired. It has been reported that the lower numbered "JP" jet fuels can be used in place of kerosene. It has been reported that Goo-Gone (a commercial citrus based solvent) can be satisfactorily substituted for the mineral spirits if desired. It has been reported that commercial automotive "engine flush" can be substituted for the ATF (but you lose the red color). For each gallon of Ed's Red produced you can also add 1 pound of anhydrous lanolin (CAS#8006-54-0), which helps to neutralize fingerprints but it's really not necessary and current formulations generally omit it. You can also leave out the acetone but then it doesn't remove plastic wad fouling or penetrate as well. Store in airtight chemical-proof containers as the acetone, if used, will evaporate. Two sources for bulk anhydrous lanolin are http://www.selectoil...SO-Lanolin.html and http://www.thesage.com/ . According to Ed, "Ed's Red" will flow at -65oF and won't carbonize at 600oF. It has seen use by both the FBI and the Army Marksmanship Training Units. MIXING INSTRUCTIONS Mix outdoors, in good ventilation. Use a clean 1 gallon metal, or chemical-resistant, heavy gage NFPA approved plastic gasoline storage containers. Do NOT use light weight, thin, high density polyethelyne (HDPE), which is breathable, because the acetone will gradually evaporate. Don't use PVC containers as they will dissolve. A possible online source for metal 1 pint and 1 quart screw top metal containers suitable for storing Ed's Red is http://www.taxidermy.com . This site appears to be some sort of frames based design that does not allow you to link directly to containers, but you can find them via the following site links Products | Molding and Casting | Containers, Cups and Tools. The Blitz USA line of approved gasoline containers can be obtained at Auto Zone, Home Depot, Walmart, Target, and other retailers and are what I use. (www.blitzusa.com). Add the ATF first. Use the empty container to measure the other components, so that it is thoroughly rinsed. You can divert a small quantity, up to 4 ounces per quart of the 50-50 ATF/kerosene mix for use as an "Ed's Red-compatible" gun oil. This can be done without impairing the effectiveness of the mix. INSTRUCTIONS FOR USING a) Insure that the firearm is unloaded and that all magazines are removed. Cleaning is most effective when done while the barrel is still warm to the touch from firing. Saturate a cotton patch with Ed's Red, wrap or impale on a jag and push it through the bore from breech to muzzle. The patch should be a snug fit. Let the first patch fall off and do not pull it back into the bore. b) Wet a second patch, and similarly start it into the bore from the breech, this time scrubbing from the throat area forward in 4-5" strokes and gradually advancing until the patch emerges out the muzzle. Waiting approximately 1 minute to let the bore cleaner soak will improve its action. c. For pitted, heavily carbon-fouled "rattle battle" guns, leaded revolvers or neglected bores a bronze brush wet with bore cleaner may be used to remove stubborn deposits. This is unnecessary for smooth, target-grade barrels in routine use. d) Use a final wet patch pushed straight through the bore to flush out loosened residue dissolved by Ed's Red. Let the patch fall off the jag without pulling it back into the bore. If you are finished firing, leaving the bore wet will protect it from rust for up to 30 days. If the lanolin is incorporated into the mixture, it will protect the firearm from rust for up to two years. e) Wipe spilled Ed's Red from exterior surfaces before storing the gun. While Ed's Red is harmless to blue and nickel finishes, the acetone it contains is harmful to most wood finishes and it could damage some plastics if left in prolonged contact. f) Before firing again, push two dry patches through the bore and dry the chamber, using a patch wrapped around a suitably sized brush or jag. First shot point of impact usually will not be disturbed by Ed's Red if the bore is cleaned as described. It has been reported that when Ed's Red is used exclusively and thoroughly, that hot water cleaning is unnecessary after use of Pyrodex or military chlorate primers. However, if bores are not wiped between shots and are heavily caked from black powder fouling, hot water cleaning is recommended first to break up heavy fouling deposits. Water cleaning should be followed by a thorough flush with Ed's Red to prevent after-rusting which could result from residual moisture. It is ALWAYS good practice to clean twice, two days apart, whenever using chlorate primed ammunition, just to make sure you get all the residue out. Thanks to Jim Dodd for the above instructions An unusual use for Ed's Red. Several correspondents report that an application of ER to an ant hill, especially fire ants, kills 'em dead. Also, Ed's Red is very penetrative and makes a superior penetrating oil for loosening rusted parts. In fact in some testing by a machinist's magazine a couple of years ago it beat all the commercial products by a wide margin. A dedicated ER penetrating solution can be made by just using a 50-50 mix of ATF and acetone. A historical note about Ed's Red. When Ed Harris first cooked it up, it exceeded the then current Mil Specs for bore cleaner and CLP. Ed and a cohort were able to test it at a defense contractor's quality lab after hours with chrome-moly and stainless samples provided by Kreiger. Edited February 2, 2017 by fortune Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fortune Posted February 2, 2017 Report Share Posted February 2, 2017 To simplify all of the above basically it is acitone mixed with automatic transmission oil and white spirit. God that shifts fouling of all sorts out of the barrels. If you're using one of those bore snake things and you think that the barrels are clean you would have a shock if you used this stuff. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Seadog1408 Posted February 2, 2017 Author Report Share Posted February 2, 2017 Thanks for all the info gents, much appreciated!! Mike Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CharlieT Posted February 2, 2017 Report Share Posted February 2, 2017 I have successfully used a pressure washer on more than one occasion. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fortune Posted February 2, 2017 Report Share Posted February 2, 2017 I have successfully used a pressure washer on more than one occasion. I did see that once on a nice Berretta that had been left plastered in mud and left in the back of a pickup overnight and it had all frozen solid. The bloke just took it and chucked it on the ground and steam cleaned the whole gun. Gave it a shake off and then went off shooting with it. Unbelievable machine abuse. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
klatuveradanikto Posted February 2, 2017 Report Share Posted February 2, 2017 I use a big feather with a bit of oil sprayed on it plenty kicking about for nothing Thats what i use Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mr.C Posted February 2, 2017 Report Share Posted February 2, 2017 To simplify all of the above basically it is acitone mixed with automatic transmission oil and white spirit. God that shifts fouling of all sorts out of the barrels. If you're using one of those bore snake things and you think that the barrels are clean you would have a shock if you used this stuff. Would that a 1/3,1/3,1/3 mix? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
hawkfanz Posted February 2, 2017 Report Share Posted February 2, 2017 you can get tiny brushes from wilco to brush gaps between teeth,i think these might fit the bill. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
HDAV Posted February 2, 2017 Report Share Posted February 2, 2017 Would compressed air work Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Paul223 Posted February 2, 2017 Report Share Posted February 2, 2017 Tooth brush + WD40 + air line Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BrowningB525 Posted February 2, 2017 Report Share Posted February 2, 2017 Would that a 1/3,1/3,1/3 mix? Yep Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fortune Posted February 2, 2017 Report Share Posted February 2, 2017 Would that a 1/3,1/3,1/3 mix? Yes, to a degree. it isn't totally critical what you put in the mix. sometimes I have added a portion of standard hydraulic oil 32 or 64 in there as well as the dexron auto fluid. Rod a couple of squares of bog roll folded 4 times down the bores to get the top float off and then spash the liquid and then phosphor bronze brush twidle rotated.and then up and down a few times. Then a lot of x2 patches of bog roll. They come out black for some time. then Ed's red on a wool mop. then wipe down the outside with the oiled mop. barrells are polished like mirrors. This stuff lasts a long time so you dont need gallons of it. If you had a mugful of each it would probably last the normal use five years. unless youv'e got ten guns out every day. Would compressed air work depends on how much mud ect is there but tooth brush and hot water The water soon evaporates and then as above Ed's red + no rusting and long lasting protection. and it's very cheap to make. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bruno22rf Posted February 3, 2017 Report Share Posted February 3, 2017 RS used to sell cans of compressed air....or if you know anyone who uses a PCP air rifle. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BrowningB525 Posted February 3, 2017 Report Share Posted February 3, 2017 Yes, to a degree. it isn't totally critical what you put in the mix. sometimes I have added a portion of standard hydraulic oil 32 or 64 in there as well as the dexron auto fluid. Rod a couple of squares of bog roll folded 4 times down the bores to get the top float off and then spash the liquid and then phosphor bronze brush twidle rotated.and then up and down a few times. Then a lot of x2 patches of bog roll. They come out black for some time. then Ed's red on a wool mop. then wipe down the outside with the oiled mop. barrells are polished like mirrors. This stuff lasts a long time so you dont need gallons of it. If you had a mugful of each it would probably last the normal use five years. unless youv'e got ten guns out every day. depends on how much mud ect is there but tooth brush and hot water The water soon evaporates and then as above Ed's red + no rusting and long lasting protection. and it's very cheap to make. How do you store/dispense your eds red? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
keg Posted February 3, 2017 Report Share Posted February 3, 2017 Brake cleaner? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BlaserF3 Posted February 3, 2017 Report Share Posted February 3, 2017 Hot soapy water, dry with a hair dryer a squirt of whatever you fancy ...job done Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bakerboy Posted February 3, 2017 Report Share Posted February 3, 2017 Tooth brush + WD40 + air line I was under the belief that WD40 damages the Blueing/Blacking on the gun? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BrowningB525 Posted February 3, 2017 Report Share Posted February 3, 2017 I was under the belief that WD40 damages the Blueing/Blacking on the gun? It doesn't seem to on mine. It may not be as good for the matt finish blacking on berettas etc. May make it shiny. People seem to think WD40 is the devil. The funniest I've seen is someone saying it can strip soldered joints. It can barely loosen a rusted bolt, let alone solder. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Fuddster Posted February 3, 2017 Report Share Posted February 3, 2017 personally i've used WD for 20 years on my guns-oldest being 15 years in my hands-not a trace of any blueing removal etc. f. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Red-dot Posted February 20, 2017 Report Share Posted February 20, 2017 WD40 will erode lead soldered shotgun ribs. I was told old English guns used almost pure lead. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BrowningB525 Posted February 20, 2017 Report Share Posted February 20, 2017 WD40 will erode lead soldered shotgun ribs. I was told old English guns used almost pure lead. I would love to see proof of this. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
manthing Posted February 20, 2017 Report Share Posted February 20, 2017 If you go to wd40.com there's a q&a type thing I'm sure there will be an answer in there, if not you may be able to post a question. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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