Gordon R Posted March 4, 2017 Report Share Posted March 4, 2017 I'm waiting for the alternative method of getting the broken bolt out. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ditchman Posted March 4, 2017 Author Report Share Posted March 4, 2017 I'm waiting for the alternative method of getting the broken bolt out. im still in my white chino's..been told to keep out of the shed.. ............i can hardly moove as i have a gut full of roast dinner...you will have to wait until tomorrow... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TIGHTCHOKE Posted March 4, 2017 Report Share Posted March 4, 2017 im still in my white chino's..been told to keep out of the shed.. ............i can hardly moove as i have a gut full of roast dinner...you will have to wait until tomorrow... Some people don't know when they are well off! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Lord O War Posted March 4, 2017 Report Share Posted March 4, 2017 quite right.....landrovers not too bad for that ...just dont drive it like you stole it for the first mile ........BALA will tell you what "proper" turbo's look like in the dark.....if they are working proper they glow red....thats why you need to "spool" down before you turn the engine off.......treated proper turbo's should never go........... one of the reasons why im doingthis thread is my mate has a range rover vogue v8 3.6l.......and at 105,000 miles he has just blown the turbos....its in the garage £4000 quid to replace them..........turbo's shouldnt blow at that distance.....just "muppet" use .... Quite right Ditchy, all the Mondeo forums have tales of wow about turbo life being about 80K miles for the ST tdci but mine is on 280K and still going strong. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ditchman Posted March 4, 2017 Author Report Share Posted March 4, 2017 Quite right Ditchy, all the Mondeo forums have tales of wow about turbo life being about 80K miles for the ST tdci but mine is on 280K and still going strong. Turbo's benifit from being worked hard...it keeps them clean of soot and working well.....................you must drive your car well and take it easy for the cold start and gentle on the stop...inbetween give it stick.........this turbo' im taking apart is still good and it is over 30 years old......i just want a mess about and have it hangin about as a spare unit... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Hendrix's rifle Posted March 4, 2017 Report Share Posted March 4, 2017 Bmw head mechanic said to me bmw turbos are only good for about 80k before they need replacing.... I've seen how some of them nobs drive Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gustaff Posted March 4, 2017 Report Share Posted March 4, 2017 Bmw head mechanic said to me bmw turbos are only good for about 80k before they need replacing.... I've seen how some of them nobs drive i have worked with bmw for 35 years and noe an independant bmw speciaist. turbo failure is always down to oil degration either by wrong grade short journeys and most over looked engine crankcase breathers blocking creating back pressure on turbo seals and digesting their own oil. and two year 20k oil change intervals not physicaly possible but come second oil change 4 yr old out of warranty .good service selling promotion by dealers no good in long term.good for my business as i change at least three a month Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bornfree Posted March 4, 2017 Report Share Posted March 4, 2017 They have water cooled turbos on petrol engines these days with an electric pump to remove heat after shutdown. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bornfree Posted March 4, 2017 Report Share Posted March 4, 2017 quite right.....landrovers not too bad for that ...just dont drive it like you stole it for the first mile ........BALA will tell you what "proper" turbo's look like in the dark.....if they are working proper they glow red....thats why you need to "spool" down before you turn the engine off.......treated proper turbo's should never go........... one of the reasons why im doingthis thread is my mate has a range rover vogue v8 3.6l.......and at 105,000 miles he has just blown the turbos....its in the garage £4000 quid to replace them..........turbo's shouldnt blow at that distance.....just "muppet" use .... Iam sure I have a picture somewhere of a cat v8 engine running a 1000kva generator at full load,the turbos were both glowing a dull red. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ditchman Posted March 5, 2017 Author Report Share Posted March 5, 2017 Iam sure I have a picture somewhere of a cat v8 engine running a 1000kva generator at full load,the turbos were both glowing a dull red. ouch.............. ....just how it should be..............BALA will be along in a minuet Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ditchman Posted March 5, 2017 Author Report Share Posted March 5, 2017 They have water cooled turbos on petrol engines these days with an electric pump to remove heat after shutdown. yes they have come a long way since my fiddling time with them ...they are also variable pitch turbines now i believe....far tooooo complicated for me .... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rovercoupe Posted March 5, 2017 Report Share Posted March 5, 2017 This reminds me of alot of the jap imports when i got mone, it had a turbo timer which ran the engine for a set time once you parked up and pulled the keys out, you could lock the car and walk off with the engine still going and it got some funny looks off people who were near by when it would shut down by its self as you wandered off! Mine didnt even have a turbo it was just for jap bling!! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ditchman Posted March 5, 2017 Author Report Share Posted March 5, 2017 (edited) Test.................right i think ive got it now......had a new pic' program loaded onto the new computor...had difficulty arranging the settings...so i will alter them as i go on..... first pic shows the turbo to be rebuilt against the rebuilt engine one...the next 3 pics show the exhaust turbine chamber..and the 4 bloody bolts that have to come out....which hold the cassett/turbine shaft in ***'......annnnd...yup as usual one of the bolts has snapped off........if you heat that area of the turbine exhast...it usually ends up cracking...so once i have cleaned it all up i will start to drill it out... Edited March 5, 2017 by ditchman Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ditchman Posted March 5, 2017 Author Report Share Posted March 5, 2017 next pic's show where it (the bolt) snapped off and removing the studs from the exhaust manifold...the last one shows the circlip that needs to be removed to take off the turbine compressor housing (aluminium) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ditchman Posted March 5, 2017 Author Report Share Posted March 5, 2017 so the circlip comes out and the pressure chamber comes off.......then it is time to drift the cassett out of the exhaust turbine chamber....only drift on the body of the cassett as the edges can get damaged....last pic shows it is starting to move... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ditchman Posted March 5, 2017 Author Report Share Posted March 5, 2017 so the cassett is now free of the chambers.........you can see where i have to drill the bolt out now......last 2 pic's show the removal of the compressor turbine 8mm nut................REMOVE THIS NUT CLOCKWISE (SPINNING SHAFT OK) then a little gentle heat on the turbine and lift it off Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
la bala Posted March 5, 2017 Report Share Posted March 5, 2017 (edited) Like you say Simon they can get warm. Edited March 5, 2017 by la bala Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ditchman Posted March 5, 2017 Author Report Share Posted March 5, 2017 now that is warm................. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ditchman Posted March 5, 2017 Author Report Share Posted March 5, 2017 GENTLY tap out the shaft...and the shield will come out as well ...then remove the cover plate from the other end............. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ditchman Posted March 5, 2017 Author Report Share Posted March 5, 2017 first pic is the turbine shaft....and the other pics are of the centralising bush/seal......these have "funny" screws in them and are TIGHT...so make sure they are cleaned out before you try and unscrew them....and they go back in with locktight (other brands are available) looking at the turbo now...im not happy with the cassett the engine has been timed wrong and it is wet sooted up which acts like a grinding paste....the exhaust and compression bodies are in really good condition....the turbo has never been brought up to temperature properly ....so i will swap over an old cassett and marry that to the good stuff when i get the rebuild kit.........you will see how bad it is wet sooted up later on.... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TIGHTCHOKE Posted March 5, 2017 Report Share Posted March 5, 2017 Shame about the SHORT BOLT syndrome, this is going to be interesting! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ditchman Posted March 5, 2017 Author Report Share Posted March 5, 2017 Shame about the SHORT BOLT syndrome, this is going to be interesting! i will do that tomorrow.....ive got a few more stripdown pics to put up yet....... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ditchman Posted March 5, 2017 Author Report Share Posted March 5, 2017 next thing to do is lift out the "carriers"........now "i" call them carriers as they are not strictly bushes or bearings.... you have 2 of these one each end of the shaft....when you check a turbo...you check for end float............(which you dont want none of) verticle movement (you will have a bit ...maybe 1/16") the idea is these carriers are pressurised with oil at 30lbs/sq"....and as a result the shaft is "floated"....the shaft when turning does not really touch the carriers as it is floating on a thin film of oil............it needs to as the turbine will spin in excess of 120,000 RPM some turbines will spin at a 150,000 rpm !!....................... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TIGHTCHOKE Posted March 5, 2017 Report Share Posted March 5, 2017 Coming along nicely so far! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ditchman Posted March 5, 2017 Author Report Share Posted March 5, 2017 first pic is the carrier at the exhaust side of the charger...there is a weeny circlip that holds it in place....i will have a good clean up then i can see it proper to remove it....should just drop out... 2nd pic is the guts of the cassett.....not much really 3rd pic is the bolt i will drill out tomorrow 4th pic is what it should look like...the hole goes right thro to the exhaust turbine housing...which will make it easy to drill out as i dont have to be worried about the depth............. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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