Big Al Posted April 27, 2017 Report Share Posted April 27, 2017 I'm enjoying making my amateurish sticks. It's great stress relief for me - but I have encountered another problem and would appreciate a little guidance. I only have simple tools - normal DIY stuff. I bought a new jigsaw (Bosch) recently and am finding it cannot cope with cutting out the hardwood handle. The struts bend because of the pressure I'm putting on them due to the thickness of the blocks (about 2 inches). Thd blades are also flexing and ruining the wood. My question is this - can any jigsaw cope with what I am expecting of mine? It's pretty hard wood! Or do I need to get a band saw? Or is there any other option? Thanks. Most recent market stick. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
patrickstar Posted April 27, 2017 Report Share Posted April 27, 2017 Get a scrol saw mate that would be better for you I think Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Big Al Posted April 27, 2017 Author Report Share Posted April 27, 2017 Get a scrol saw mate that would be better for you I think Thanks - I'll look into that! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
oldypigeonpopper Posted April 27, 2017 Report Share Posted April 27, 2017 hello, my friend made sticks he used a band saw to cut out shape first, you can get different blades for harder wood. am sure he cut antlers to, best of luck, Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
vampire Posted April 27, 2017 Report Share Posted April 27, 2017 If its a diy bosch jig saw you have no chance,even with my trusty old gst 2000 bosch 110v you still need the right blades and they don't last long. Best bet is a decent jigsaw or better still invest in a band saw it would make light work of it given its 2" hardwood. Love the sticks,when i get more spare time this is something i would like to do in my man shed. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Stimo22 Posted April 28, 2017 Report Share Posted April 28, 2017 Without doubt the best tool would be a bandsaw, but a good one is a expensive item and take up a lot of room. I make quite a few sticks and when I do a crook I mark out the shape and use a spade drill to rough out the shape the holes just touching each other. It takes longer but is very easy, this was a method that I was taught as an apprentice fitter with shaping steel. We had to make G cramps etc as part of our training using this method. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Walker570 Posted April 28, 2017 Report Share Posted April 28, 2017 Band saw for certain as you can get different widths of blade with narrow for tight turns. Just purchased one from a member on here and having fun with it. The blade I have is probably medium width but cuts six in circles no problem and would probably go smaller. The spade drill idea is certainly the cheap way to go at it and with care you can remove a lot of wood. Just a suggestion, have you tried mounting your handles with a slanted joint ? I was given this advice 20 odd years or more ago by a pro stick maker who if you visited fairs in thos days you would see carving some beautiful heads. Amazingly it is much easier to get a good fitting joint. Your doing some nice work, good fun isn't it? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Big Al Posted April 28, 2017 Author Report Share Posted April 28, 2017 Many thanks for all the replies. It looks like a band saw then! Vampire - My jigsaw is ( was) a Bosch diy one and I've wrecked it. Stimo22 - I'll use the spade drill idea until I get a band saw - thanks for that. Walker570 - I've yet to try the slanted joint, but will definitely be giving it a go. And you're right. It is great fun! I'm getting through sticks and hardwood very quickly. I'm giving most of them away to friends and I'm getting a lot of enjoyment from that too. Cheers oldpigeonpopper - I was given an antler do chew by an anti shooting work colleague who knew I had dogs. His dog wouldn't eat it and it looked too good to waste as a dog chew so I've just made it into a priest. (I love the fact he is anti Fieldsports and that it is now a priest!) I drilled it out, poured in lead shot, soldered the top and capped each end with acrylic. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
derbyduck Posted April 29, 2017 Report Share Posted April 29, 2017 I use a coping saw and the drill method it takes a bit longer but when shaping burr alder or elm it dosen't tear the grain . Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
figgy Posted April 29, 2017 Report Share Posted April 29, 2017 It the right blades for jigsaw and it will get through it. But a small bench top bandsaw will do you if your only cutting upto a few inches thick, you can buy flexy back blades for cutting shapes. Look for a used on online they can be had for reasonable cost. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Big Al Posted May 2, 2017 Author Report Share Posted May 2, 2017 (edited) I use a coping saw and the drill method it takes a bit longer but when shaping burr alder or elm it dosen't tear the grain . It the right blades for jigsaw and it will get through it. But a small bench top bandsaw will do you if your only cutting upto a few inches thick, you can buy flexy back blades for cutting shapes. Look for a used on online they can be had for reasonable cost.Thanks guys. Figgy - what type of blades should I be looking for? The ones I'm using seem to flex too much (left to right ) when turning a bend Edited May 2, 2017 by Big Al Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
figgy Posted May 2, 2017 Report Share Posted May 2, 2017 (edited) For cutting curves in wood they use thin flexy back blades. The blades are not as deep and bi metal or different tempers so only the teeth are hard metal the rest is a softer flexible steel. Watch some of the woodwork videos on YouTube you will see them swap blades and you'll get the jist of what to do for your sticks. Looking at the charts for 2" thick 3teeth per inch is recommended and 3/8th thick blade for 1 1/2" tight radius. Edited May 2, 2017 by figgy Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Big Al Posted May 2, 2017 Author Report Share Posted May 2, 2017 For cutting curves in wood they use thin flexy back blades. The blades are not as deep and bi metal or different tempers so only the teeth are hard metal the rest is a softer flexible steel. Watch some of the woodwork videos on YouTube you will see them swap blades and you'll get the jist of what to do for your sticks. Looking at the charts for 2" thick 3teeth per inch is recommended and 3/8th thick blade for 1 1/2" tight radius. 👍 Cheers figgy Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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