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To be honest i still don't get the turn on shoulder thingy, just seem's show boating to me unless ur dog really does everything else well, mines don't so i've more important things to worry about. :whistling:

 

A search command and longer retrieves do come in handy or atleast it's nice to know ur dog is capable of it because remember on a shoot day often dogs don't behave anywhere near the standards they do in training on there own familiar area.

Even for a beating dog its handy to have a search command if an injurded bird ends up in the wood say from a walking gun or ur walking past a outside peg on way back to motors and a gun ask's u to find a bird or 2 for him. That happens quite a lot on shoots i go to beaters often get the

 

U don't need cut lanes or circles but it is a clever way to teach the dog and that trainer is a pro at the very top of the game, but any straight line/track will do and any time the dog is near the dummy give it ur search command it soon learns when u tell it to search they're something good nearby

And initailly for ur hand signals/lineing up i'd go right back to simple puppy rerieves so ur dog is seeing/marking the fall/dummy and then associating that with u pointing ur arm at it, so when u come to doing blinds it should be really staring along ur arm line expecting to see a dummy.

and when u 1st start doing blinds it would be good if the dog can see it when it learns to look along the line so short grass and close initally.

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Your dog presents the retrieve really nicely, but unfortunately she didn't really take the direction properly. You need to stop her and give her another command if she is heading back towards you,

Edited by motty
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Nice job Ian, you can tell she is an experienced beating dog. I get the feeling if you'd have stopped her and tried to push her back she'd still quarter her way to the dummy. She worked the ground nicely. Lovely dog.

Edited by lee-kinsman
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Thanks gentlemen.

Motty, lee, I am never sure when to let her work it out and for how long or stop and direct her. Sounds like I should be stopping her.

Thanks for the advice

 

 

She wasn't working it out, she ran around in ever increasing circles until she found something.

 

You should have stopped her somewhere between 4 and 5 seconds into your video and sent her straight back - if she can't do that then simplify the exercise on a path or in a lane where you can train her to go straight back on memories then blinds. Break your training into parts to enable you to "build" the finished dog.... not that I'm sure such a thing exists, it seems to be like trying to get 5 gallons of water into a 4 gallon bucket at times.

 

But you didn't help her by sending her back from so close to you, what chance has she got of going in a straight line?

 

If you want to pick a blind at that distance with the dog as close to you as it was, call the dog in and line it up.

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Never one to shy away from constructive criticism (that's the reason for posting, so that I can learn from experienced handlers) this is very untidy but a true depiction of an attempt at a longish (for her) blind from a couple of days ago. I now know that I should have stopped her much earlier but as I say I wasn't sure how much or when to start handling her as you hear talk of "over handling" She seems to generally go so far but then veers off in all directions. She seemed to go pretty straight after I stopped her though.

 

https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=YO7hAMzs9Co

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Never one to shy away from constructive criticism (that's the reason for posting, so that I can learn from experienced handlers) this is very untidy but a true depiction of an attempt at a longish (for her) blind from a couple of days ago. I now know that I should have stopped her much earlier but as I say I wasn't sure how much or when to start handling her as you hear talk of "over handling" She seems to generally go so far but then veers off in all directions. She seemed to go pretty straight after I stopped her though.

 

https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=YO7hAMzs9Co

 

 

The first few seconds and there last few seconds were good, it's the middle section that's handler error allowing her to run about without any help. Don't let her go too far wrong and it's easier to keep her where you want her.

 

Re how far away she is from you; if you cast the dog back from close to you to a dummy a distance away a few degrees the wrong way is a long way from the dummy by the time she gets to it. Sometimes you have to do it but then your handling comes in to keep them on or close to the line you want them to go.

 

You had no handles to pick the dummy in the first video I commented on but would have picked it a lot quicker with two or three. Don't be frightened to blow your whistle, it's what its there for.

 

With experience on game and in training you advance your training so the dog knows when its being sent and left to its own devices and when you are intending to send it and tell it where to look. Both very much have their place in the field.

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Thank you that's most helpful, I will start handling her more from now on.

I understand what you mean about the distance from me when I send her, I didn't consider that so I will bare it in mind.

Thanks again all useful and duly noted 👍

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Question.

Wgd, sonething just occurred to me.

 

If you send her out as in my vid and she is going a few degrees off line you say to stop and redirect her. Is this were the turning on a specific shoulder could be useful, would turning on a shoulder help line her up ?

As in she is a few degrees to the right so stop her and turn her on her right shoulder rather than a left to effectively get back on line a bit or am I totally missing the point ??

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Question.

Wgd, sonething just occurred to me.

 

If you send her out as in my vid and she is going a few degrees off line you say to stop and redirect her. Is this were the turning on a specific shoulder could be useful, would turning on a shoulder help line her up ?

As in she is a few degrees to the right so stop her and turn her on her right shoulder rather than a left to effectively get back on line a bit or am I totally missing the point ??

 

 

:good:;)

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I just had to try...

I did exactly as you said wgd, (i hope) she went off line straight away so i stopped her straight away 👍

 

I haven't done much training sending her from heal as i generally work her remotely consequently she tends to take any arm movement as a release command, i am working on this as we speak in order to try and get her to follow were my arm is pointing. The turning on my preferred shoulder is 75% reliable but sometimes she turns on wrong one, again i am working on this.

 

Not perfect but its the best i have for now..

 

https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=21GMa3KkB2c

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Question.

Wgd, sonething just occurred to me.

 

If you send her out as in my vid and she is going a few degrees off line you say to stop and redirect her. Is this were the turning on a specific shoulder could be useful, would turning on a shoulder help line her up ?

As in she is a few degrees to the right so stop her and turn her on her right shoulder rather than a left to effectively get back on line a bit or am I totally missing the point ??

 

I must admit my dogs probably won't be up to the standard of wgd's so i'd take a slightly different approach.

 

If my dog was only a few degrees off (it would be a bloody miricle :whistling: ) but depending on the situation i'd normally just let the dog run if still going straight then stop it at the correct distance and give it a left/right and get it into the fall that way..

May not be as tidy as wgd's method but i think the chances of ur dog turning on the right shouder and then running the exact ammount of degrees is slim (or it is with mine atleast)

 

Also bear in wind wind direction if ur dog is running slightly down wind of the mark it's never a bad thing

If ur dog is sruggling a wee bit give ur dummies a good rub with ur hands or get some scent on them so dog should wind the dummy earlier

Edited by scotslad
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Cheers, I admit that I rarely give wind much consideration what with all the other stuff I try to remember 😁

 

I suppose its a case of finding what works for you or rather the dog. Stopping her as soon as she was off line as WGD said certainly worked on the last vid, not perfect i know but improvement on the one were I "wrongly" left her to it.

Tues evening was spent trying to get her not to take my outstretched arm as a release command, this was a fundamental error on my part during early training when knew no better.

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The only time I really let my dog 'work it out' is if I am unsure of where the retrieve is. For example, if I can see a dead goose on land/water, but my dog is clearly heading in the wrong direction, I will correct him. If I am not sure where it is, I will send him in the general area and leave him to it with his superior game finding abilities. If when doing this, he starts to get away from the area that I believe the bird to be, I will send him back into that area.

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I just had to try...

I did exactly as you said wgd, (i hope) she went off line straight away so i stopped her straight away

 

I haven't done much training sending her from heal as i generally work her remotely consequently she tends to take any arm movement as a release command, i am working on this as we speak in order to try and get her to follow were my arm is pointing. The turning on my preferred shoulder is 75% reliable but sometimes she turns on wrong one, again i am working on this.

 

Not perfect but its the best i have for now..

 

https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=21GMa3KkB2c

 

 

Night and day, well done.

 

As scotslad says find what works for you and what you want from your, I'm training for trials and (on dummies) tests as well as good shooting dogs so I want to be able to "drive" them with a bit more accuracy than a shooting or beating dog.... doesn't always work that way and not what everyone wants but you've got to have something to aim for.

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