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Forge time


la bala
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As per Ditch.....I have tried a few times and still have to succeed...... don't run before you can walk was advice given by a 'mentor'. I am hoping to get at the forge and succeed this winter when all the summer jobs have been sorted so I will be watching very carefully how you get on. I think in the past I have tried to weld too big a piece.

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at the moment im inventing it my head a machine that will "hollow grind"........................damn you all........the bug is developing............... :lol::lol:

Get on boy, I want one :yes:

Anyone tried the chainsaw chain knife method aka scrapmascus? Been saving old chains for years but never got round to it mainly because of the anvil situation!

They look brilliant :good:

As there is several of you guys on here that definitely know what they are talking about, may i ask your help. If i decide on a 5 layer stack of which 3 will be carbon steel, what can i use for the other 2 for the best colour contrast. Please remember i would like a good edge. I have a feeling i am getting out of my depth :lol::lol:

Any ideas lads

Come on boys, any ideas on this

post-52836-0-79505500-1507196617_thumb.jpg

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regards blade contrast..................this is a guess as im out of my depth...so im looking at the problem mechanically

 

 

divide the metal into 3 piles with 2 of the piles...do your twisty ....bending.....folding hammer thing...then square em off into 2 seperate billets.......

 

 

then join the 3 billets together....the pattern forge welded stuff on either side of the high carbon steel....all billits the same size

 

forge weld them together and shape.....when you grind off...you will have a high carbon steel come thro...like the filling in a sandwich

 

 

with queching and annealing....dont quench the handel and the first part of the spine....cause that is where it will snap........you need a tough edge...and a softer spine and tang...(handel).................

 

thats why the japs paint their knives and swords with clay slip....the thicker the clay slip the longer the quenching time...so where the metal is thick...(spine and tang)...it wont be so hard...............

 

 

 

may be...just make one billet....bend twist hammer etc................flattern off and polish ...acid dip.....and see what comes out first...............

 

 

with your picture..............i think you are being very very very complicated...and as a result of folding and twisting the high carbon steel will be all over the place..

 

 

anyway my thoughts...from a total amature.........

Edited by ditchman
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I am starting to get a little worried about this :lol:

 

 

look............start off simple.........get one billet and forge weld ...twist hammer fold ..etc ctc........flattern ...cut into 2......sandwich high carbon steel twixt the 2 forge welded peices ...forge weld.....flattern to max dimensions of the blade...........

 

then carry out your normal shaping process.........quench...harden temper...polish acid..........................

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If I were you the edge of that billet would need grinding flush as possible for it will weld far easier. Like ditchmam I'd use a different hammer, ha ha.

I take your point Ew, It is like that for a reason, as i have said its only an experimental billet. I will give my reasons for it after the heat. Success or failure, i will tell what i hoped to achieve.

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I take your point Ew, It is like that for a reason, as i have said its only an experimental billet. I will give my reasons for it after the heat. Success or failure, i will tell what i hoped to achieve.

I use en42j high carbon steel which works best with 15n20 they will give you a nice pattern weld plus give a great edge to your blade, my reason for the flush surface is you need very little flux when welding as you need the impurities to push out and excessive flux will hinder that process.

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I use en42j high carbon steel which works best with 15n20 they will give you a nice pattern weld plus give a great edge to your blade, my reason for the flush surface is you need very little flux when welding as you need the impurities to push out and excessive flux will hinder that process.

Mmm now you have got me thinking Ew

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Mmm now you have got me thinking Ew

 

I use en42j high carbon steel which works best with 15n20 they will give you a nice pattern weld plus give a great edge to your blade, my reason for the flush surface is you need very little flux when welding as you need the impurities to push out and excessive flux will hinder that process.

Thanks Ew have ordered some 15N20.

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Well I hope things work out I would hate to think of you working that hard on a billet to find out you've ended up with a piece of **** after all that effort mind you ditchman may well have had a laugh about it.

If i dont end up with a piece of **** it will be more luck than judgement :lol::lol::lol:

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