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Up and over garage door HELP NEEDED PLEASE


marsh man
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Strange one , Our garage have no other access apart from using the up and over door.

Today when I closed it I thought something had dropped behind the inside top because I could no longer open it from the outside , I took the brick out from where a previous letter box was so I could see inside , nothing was blocking it but one of the arms that go from the handle to the top catch had come apart so the top catch on one side is stuck closed with no way of getting inside to free it.

All my tools are inside the garage so the only thing I could think of was cutting a hole in the brick work with my brothers hammer and chisels so I can crawl in and then bricking it back up once the inside arm have been repaired.

If any garage doors installers are on the forum or anybody who knows about the doors I am talking about , What would be your actions please, or with me being a ex brick layer would my way be the cheapest way out as I don't want to damage the door.

                                                                                             THANKS for your time.

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5 minutes ago, B&W FOX said:

If this engages with the top only ie. locking bar into latch.

it is possible to put a garden spade between the top of the door and the lintel where the latch is and lever down very gently the door will pop open

 

1 minute ago, Rupert said:

Can you see the locking catch on the door trru the gap between the door and the frame

 

Thanks for your reply ........From the outside all I can see is a galvanised strip between the top of the door and the door frame , and no Rupert I cant see any locking catch.

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1 minute ago, Rupert said:

best plan on info provided,  remove galv strip to expose locking catch use strong flat implement to lever down catch .Pictures would be helpful

THANKS Rupert , I will have a look in the morning to see how the strip is fitted , we have only been in the bungalow for a few months so I am not sure about the door instalment but up to now every thing on it have worked fine.

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When you lever it down so far you’ll see it’s tapered towards the top and a quick push at that point should have it open in no time. 

On garage doors with no other opening I’ve had them with a separate lock in the door and attached to the lock was a string you could pull to open the catch in case of failure. 

To be honest if you not mechanical minded in removing rivets fiddling the catch open and then re riveting the strip back on, going through the wall is probably quicker for you. 

Edited by figgy
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13 hours ago, marsh man said:

Morning All ...... Many thanks to all the kind people who offered advice , I started at the top of the list first who was B&W FOX and after putting a spade in and levering the door down , hey presto it was open .

So thanks again and your help was much appreciated .

 

3 hours ago, stumfelter said:

You'll all be convicted of aiding and abetting when he gets caught! ??

Which just shows how feeble garage doors are, thinking a big padlock might be needed.

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8 hours ago, Mice! said:

 

Which just shows how feeble garage doors are, thinking a big padlock might be needed.

True. Some time back tealeaves accessed my garage with the shovel method. I fitted two drop bolts, one each side of the door, which key into the concrete hard standing. Each padlocked with same-key locks.

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4 minutes ago, Bobba said:

True. Some time back tealeaves accessed my garage with the shovel method. I fitted two drop bolts, one each side of the door, which key into the concrete hard standing. Each padlocked with same-key locks.

I have virtually the same, but the locks are integrated with the bolts and fitted internally with only a keyhole on the outside.  They are very good.

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44 minutes ago, Bobba said:

True. Some time back tealeaves accessed my garage with the shovel method. I fitted two drop bolts, one each side of the door, which key into the concrete hard standing. Each padlocked with same-key locks.

 

38 minutes ago, JohnfromUK said:

I have virtually the same, but the locks are integrated with the bolts and fitted internally with only a keyhole on the outside.  They are very good.

Well worth considering and thanks for the advice , prevention is better than cure .

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On 8 December 2017 at 10:11, Medic1281 said:

I have those type of locks, they are very good. They also prevent the bottom corners of the door being peeled up and access gained that way. Standard doors are very weak normally. 

Agreed. Which is why I placed a drop lock on each side of the door to (try) and prevent the corners being peeled up.

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