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4 hours ago, islandgun said:

Does anyone have a steel waterfowl shot size they use for all quarry..?   Im thinking Greylag to Teal through 1/2 choke in a S/A at between 25-35 mts,  reload or factory

Does such a thing exist..?    

RC Atomic 32 or 34 gram Steel 3's or 4's no need for Heavy hard on the Shoulder loads.

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12 minutes ago, 6.5x55SE said:

RC Atomic 32 or 34 gram Steel 3's or 4's no need for Heavy hard on the Shoulder loads.

I was thinking about you and your exploits with a 410,  I guess smaller shot equates to a better pattern but well placed is the order of the day,  my concern would be placement and would 4s be a wounding size on a greylag if im behind the head area,

perhaps it would be better to explain where im coming from,  I only shoot a few geese a year and less ducks, last season i wounded every bird i shot, with each needing to be dispatched by hand,  I used a fixed choke O/U at imp cyl -1/4 , shot sizes 3's to 5's {best results 5's,]  shot was ITX. Patterning i found the larger shot to have larger gaps, which explained [perhaps] misses with the ducks and wounded geese.  My wife finally persuaded me to buy a S/A with multi chokes..:| The intention is to use tighter chokes and steel, improve my aim, and clean kill as many birds as possible, with clean kills paramount .

 

4 hours ago, Kraai said:

With any 32 or 34 gr nr 3 or 4 at that distance...there are plenty of dutch movies on youtube where the shoot geese with nr 4 up to 40 meter 

cheers Kraai will check the vids out

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1 hour ago, islandgun said:

I was thinking about you and your exploits with a 410,  I guess smaller shot equates to a better pattern but well placed is the order of the day,  my concern would be placement and would 4s be a wounding size on a greylag if im behind the head area,

perhaps it would be better to explain where im coming from,  I only shoot a few geese a year and less ducks, last season i wounded every bird i shot, with each needing to be dispatched by hand,  I used a fixed choke O/U at imp cyl -1/4 , shot sizes 3's to 5's {best results 5's,]  shot was ITX. Patterning i found the larger shot to have larger gaps, which explained [perhaps] misses with the ducks and wounded geese.  My wife finally persuaded me to buy a S/A with multi chokes.. The intention is to use tighter chokes and steel, improve my aim, and clean kill as many birds as possible, with clean kills paramount .

 

cheers Kraai will check the vids out

When the non toxic first came in i used Express 36grm 1's and 3's as i never reloaded. Reason being I'm a great believer in Pattern AND Penertration is the best combination. I've been very very lucky in have access to good Coastal Wildfowling and outstanding Inland shooting for Ducks and Geese most of my Inland shooting is done with a 20ga and Steel shot not because I'm a George Digweed shot or to be clever. Reason being I'm 100% confident in my Gun Cartridges along with my own shooting ability. Over the years I've taken many for their First goose advice I've given use a gun you shoot with best a cartridge you have faith in and in 2-3 or 4 shot  Geese are not a Mithical Bird they die/can be killed just as easily as a Pigeon so why do people struggle TWO reasons Shooting at them out of range and hitting them up the Rear end Simple as that get up front shoot in range and they will readily fold Dead :good:

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13 minutes ago, 6.5x55SE said:

When the non toxic first came in i used Express 36grm 1's and 3's as i never reloaded. Reason being I'm a great believer in Pattern AND Penertration is the best combination. I've been very very lucky in have access to good Coastal Wildfowling and outstanding Inland shooting for Ducks and Geese most of my Inland shooting is done with a 20ga and Steel shot not because I'm a George Digweed shot or to be clever. Reason being I'm 100% confident in my Gun Cartridges along with my own shooting ability. Over the years I've taken many for their First goose advice I've given use a gun you shoot with best a cartridge you have faith in and in 2-3 or 4 shot  Geese are not a Mithical Bird they die/can be killed just as easily as a Pigeon so why do people struggle TWO reasons Shooting at them out of range and hitting them up the Rear end Simple as that get up front shoot in range and they will readily fold Dead :good:

Thanks for the great advice, will be patterning 3' and 4's over the next few months and getting my lad to fire off a lot of clays..:good: 

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Doesn't ITX comes in 00s, 2s, 4s and 6s? 

I reload my shells and this was my first attempt at non toxic but I found issues with smaller 4s and end un shooting 2s with mixed results (most down to my poor choice of barrel/choke combination and poor shooting.

Tried heavy (3"- 30g) to standard loads  2" 3/4- 27g) on my 20 bore and proof testing was ok, but found they patterned better when I dropped the payloads and increased speed...

I guess is back to the drawing boards till next season

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10 hours ago, Continental Shooter said:

Doesn't ITX comes in 00s, 2s, 4s and 6s? 

I reload my shells and this was my first attempt at non toxic but I found issues with smaller 4s and end un shooting 2s with mixed results (most down to my poor choice of barrel/choke combination and poor shooting.

Tried heavy (3"- 30g) to standard loads  2" 3/4- 27g) on my 20 bore and proof testing was ok, but found they patterned better when I dropped the payloads and increased speed...

I guess is back to the drawing boards till next season

Cheers, just checked and yes your right, they must be 4's, there certainly bigger than 6's anyway.:good:

This shot size + choke+ load weight + range and speed  makes the whole thing very interesting, this is why im experimenting with steel, as banging away at a board with ITX or Bismuth gets very expensive

Edited by islandgun
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2 hours ago, islandgun said:

Cheers, just checked and yes your right, they must be 4's, there certainly bigger than 6's anyway.:good:

This shot size + choke+ load weight + range and speed  makes the whole thing very interesting, this is why im experimenting with steel, as banging away at a board with ITX or Bismuth gets very expensive

I know.... it's a pain; especially if you want to get it proof tested... 

I have a decent starting point for 20 bore (based on Cook's test data) although it seems that ITX, especially using non toxic wad (gualandi SG or BP Z2M) performs better at higher speed.

Mine roam around the 1350 fps which, according to the manufacturer is the minimum lethal speed for waterfowl outside 30 yds. They suggestes that anything up to 1450 should be ideal 

I was going to move on to steel for ducks and keep ITX for geese as it is indeed a very costly exercise to fire ITX at a board to see how they pattern.... 

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19 minutes ago, Continental Shooter said:

I know.... it's a pain; especially if you want to get it proof tested... 

I have a decent starting point for 20 bore (based on Cook's test data) although it seems that ITX, especially using non toxic wad (gualandi SG or BP Z2M) performs better at higher speed.

Mine roam around the 1350 fps which, according to the manufacturer is the minimum lethal speed for waterfowl outside 30 yds. They suggestes that anything up to 1450 should be ideal 

I was going to move on to steel for ducks and keep ITX for geese as it is indeed a very costly exercise to fire ITX at a board to see how they pattern...

Im intending to use steel for both ducks and geese [considering the success of others on here] which is why im trying to find a load suitable for both, also i now have a S/A which doesnt give me a second barrel option, regarding choke or shot type/size

All good fun !

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Guest cookoff013
44 minutes ago, Continental Shooter said:

I know.... it's a pain; especially if you want to get it proof tested... 

I have a decent starting point for 20 bore (based on Cook's test data) although it seems that ITX, especially using non toxic wad (gualandi SG or BP Z2M) performs better at higher speed.

Mine roam around the 1350 fps which, according to the manufacturer is the minimum lethal speed for waterfowl outside 30 yds. They suggestes that anything up to 1450 should be ideal 

I was going to move on to steel for ducks and keep ITX for geese as it is indeed a very costly exercise to fire ITX at a board to see how they pattern.... 

i`d be more inclined to go with steel for cheapness, then itx as a next step. bismuth would be next then maybe niceshot, then after that powershot. thats cost savings. after that i`d then just go load up powershot, 36g loads and would probably do nearly everything you could reasonably ask for. i could even knock it down a shotsize, to improve the pellet count. but it wont be cheap.

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5 hours ago, hatsanmad said:

Me personally I opt for 2s if I know there's a chance of duck and geese. But also 3s are another option. But 2s for me I feel have a bit of hitting power behind them and pattern really well 

 

5 hours ago, Smokersmith said:

+1

Thanks for the advice,  the few that i have patterned did seem to be more even than the smaller shot 

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On 13/03/2018 at 12:38, cookoff013 said:

i`d be more inclined to go with steel for cheapness, then itx as a next step. bismuth would be next then maybe niceshot, then after that powershot. thats cost savings. after that i`d then just go load up powershot, 36g loads and would probably do nearly everything you could reasonably ask for. i could even knock it down a shotsize, to improve the pellet count. but it wont be cheap.

Yeah, steel will be but I got such good results with ITX (and good few shots) that I will use it for geese, #2 is what I'll go for. I'll be trying steel #3-2 as a duck shell.  I managed to acquire some A Steel, and want to try some 2 3/4, 7/8 oz shells and see how it goes as this is uncharted territory for me. Is steel #2 not a tad too big for ducks? Would #3 not be a good compromise(I personally dont shoot past 35-40 yds)? 

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I will be loading my own goose carts this year but may just buy Gamebore 32g 4 for ducks as they are a good cart. I will still try loading some just to compare. If i was going to use just one cartridge it would be a 3" one shot as i have used in the past when not sure what will flight in.

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