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Stock Renovation


Muddy Funker
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Hi Guys,

 

It's been a while since I asked a bone question.

I'm at the oiling stage of tarting up my miroku stock, I'm adopting what I've read about one coat per day for a week ect ect, using an ultrafine scotchbrite to rub down between each coat.

It's starting to look good, I've already applied a few coats of alkanet and sealed with shellac, I'm using walnut oil to finish and have applied around 8-9 coats so far.

My question is at what point can I apply the london wax I have?

I'm guessing you don't lay the gun up for a year until it's finished so am I supposed to strip it down for each subsequent application of oil over the next month and coming months?

Thanks in advance.

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Lets have some pictures .if your still wanting to coat the stock, i would leave of the wax, but if you feel you have reached the desired finish go ahead and wax it . To be honest its more about how you feel it looks . I would let the coats settle in for a while . Let it realy dry out . Because , if you apply a wax it will take some of the stain back out .

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15 hours ago, johnphilip said:

Lets have some pictures .if your still wanting to coat the stock, i would leave of the wax, but if you feel you have reached the desired finish go ahead and wax it . To be honest its more about how you feel it looks . I would let the coats settle in for a while . Let it realy dry out . Because , if you apply a wax it will take some of the stain back out .

Thanks for the reply, took some pics earlier so here is where I'm at.

Looks like the alkanet took more on the forend but it's not quite as bad in the flesh. I'm such an idiot I didn't get a before picture. It was a horrible thick brown varnished coating that took ages to remove.

Certainly looks way better even as it is now.

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Edited by Muddy Funker
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You have done a great job , be proud of your self ,how long since the last coat , i would say you have done enough , put it back together then you can realy see whats its like . The only problem now is , you will be scared to use it incase you bump or scarch it. But dont worry ,you have now learned how to sort it .

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Thanks for the kind replies, really appreciated.

I will add though these pics were taken after another coating of oil it doesn't look quite as good after it's dried.

What's the deal then with the further coats that I should put on monthly? This is the bit I'm struggling to get my head around, are these just put on carefully without stripping gun down each time? At what point does wax finish go on, how many coats and what effect does this give?

Lots of questions!

 

Thanks MM, I used a multitude of different branded strippers but it took ages to be honest, I used an old bank type card to scrape of varnish and for checkering a small stiff nylon brush like a toothbrush, seemed to work fine.

I think the general consensus is that these are a pain to strip and this definitely was, very time consuming.

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Cheers WW,

 

It's the walnut oil from red kite so it's gun specific and I assume has a hardener, it certainly doesn't stay wet for long after application.

That's one of my questions, I'm going to be applying more coats but surely when people do this their gun isn't out of action for a year?

So do I continue daily until happy or leave longer between coats? What effect does the wax have and how many coats of that is applied?

Lots of questions as it's first one I've done using oil, used truoil on another rifle years ago and I'm not a fan.

Thanks.

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Mate of mine was a stocker and watching him in his workshop nearly all the actions were attached to the stocks, the finishing coats were applied with a little oil on the palm of his hands and rubbed into the wood, any that got onto the metal work he just wiped off, I asked him why he did not remove the stock on each coat, he said the oil gets into any small gaps between the wood and action and makes a better seal.

He was using linseed oil finishes.

 

By the way I think that stock looks really good and I would be happy with the finish you have achieved, my stock is linseed oil finished (also a Miroku) I have got some silicon spray and rube this into the stock by hand every now and then, it waterproofs it and gives it a nice sheen.     

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A few pics of my 1187 which I inherited with water damage to the stock, cracked DuPont varnish which was lifting and a broken fore-end. Three treatments with Citri Strip eventually shifted the lacquer (destroyed the grip cap which I had to replace) and a replacement fore-end from a PW ad, 10 coats of Danish oil applied with 000 wire wool and hand rubbed with Vaseline for sheen and protection has it looking much better now

RS2.JPG.d3527f4be281ef31f24892fead4abc9f.JPGRS1.JPG.680969845e01a96b567e16ccb3495689.JPG5ad61bcd22847_remsockb4(2).JPG.80c156d8f02ea9b2300368f15daa9421.JPG5ad61ba29ad94_1187t(3).JPG.c196a9bb5152c136baa395b30ec145bb.JPG5ad61ba31ba01_1187t(4).JPG.1739339bdf87e2ba3333098c59156e88.JPG

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17 hours ago, Muddy Funker said:

Nice work impala, looks a totally different stock.

First time I've ever heard vaseline mentioned, is it not greasy to the touch?

Only a tiny amount rubbed  in with warm hands, not greasy at all. I got this tip from a US marine armourer many years ago. All my guns with oil finish are protected in this way. 

 

 

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