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8 minutes ago, Feltwad said:

Still prefer a pair of sxs 12 bore underlever hammer guns  with black powder cartridges  for all my driven partridge and pheasant days it is living the past

Feltwad

Hammer guns

 

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Nice rack. 😋

What on earth do the neighbours think! 

 

(seriously though. Very nice guns) 

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10 hours ago, Lord v said:

It certainly is. 

Shoots like a dream. I definitely get why people love the 16g.

Will be sending the barrels off to be reblued in couple of months. Its fine at the moment but you can see it thinning and having it redone will make it look stunning. 

Just had the wood work on my 16 redone and it looks beautiful. (pic to follow) also had a kickease added. 

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4 minutes ago, Esca said:

Just had the wood work on my 16 redone and it looks beautiful. (pic to follow) also had a kickease added. 

I'm considering getting the woodwork done on mine at some point. But then I like the knocks and scuffs, makes the gun look its age like the wear on the plating round the trigger. 

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13 hours ago, Lord v said:

I'm considering getting the woodwork done on mine at some point. But then I like the knocks and scuffs, makes the gun look its age like the wear on the plating round the trigger. 

Always try , on any renovation work to make the end product look a well cared for and well maintain gun . Not a "dun up " old knacker .    I have seen far to many nice guns ruined by over enthusiastic "restoration ".

Wood work oiled to a nice luster and the checkering if re-cut should not be too deep or sharp , Metal work brushed , not polished and be careful as to which parts are blacked .

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50 minutes ago, Gunman said:

Always try , on any renovation work to make the end product look a well cared for and well maintain gun . Not a "dun up " old knacker .    I have seen far to many nice guns ruined by over enthusiastic "restoration ".

Wood work oiled to a nice luster and the checkering if re-cut should not be too deep or sharp , Metal work brushed , not polished and be careful as to which parts are blacked .

I  also agree with what you say  a gun which is over a 150 years should look its age not something straigh of the shelf , I personally just clean the checkering with a strip solvent and a old tooth brush , there is nothing worst than handling and old gun with recut crisp checkering 

Feltwad

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Edited by Feltwad
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4 minutes ago, Feltwad said:

I  also agree with what you say  a gun which is over a 150 years should look its age not something straight of the shelf

I have seen some (photos of) restorations done by USA 'collectors'.  They look absolutely awful, the worst part being that they try and redo the case hardening colours - which looks terrible.  Even more amazing is how pleased they are with themselves about how they have 'saved' an old gun.  They also often seem to lengthen the chambers, and frequently don't re-proof, so the gun is in effect unsaleable in many markets.

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4 hours ago, Gunman said:

Always try , on any renovation work to make the end product look a well cared for and well maintain gun . Not a "dun up " old knacker .    I have seen far to many nice guns ruined by over enthusiastic "restoration ".

Wood work oiled to a nice luster and the checkering if re-cut should not be too deep or sharp , Metal work brushed , not polished and be careful as to which parts are blacked .

That's my main worry. The main reason I will be putting off work to the woodwork is the wear on the tail behind the trigger guard is far more than wear to the checkering would suggest, so has probably been redone 'recently' and is in good condition so I would like to leave it alone as far as possible. I am guessing that stripping the stock would be difficult without affecting the checkering? 

The gun carries a 1941 proof mark, so its not properly old like some on this thread, but old enough that anything drastic would be out of place. I fully intend to leave the blacking on the case and trigger guard as is.  

Edited by Lord v
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1 hour ago, Lord v said:

That's very nicely done. 

I am very pleased with it. I cannot claim any credit for the work as it was carried out by a chap I know who enjoys working with wood. When I gave it to him it was dented and scratched. He asked what sort of chequer I would like, flat or raised. I decided on the non original raised, I find it easier to get a grip. I also decided to get a kickeze fitted which has transform the shooting of this gun as it feel far more stable in the shoulder. While he was busy with that I sent the action and barrel of to get serviced. Very happy with it now people who had seen it pre refer thought it was a different gun. Just to check all was good I got straight out for a quick walk around the woods on my perm 6 shots 3 pigeon=big 😁 

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22 hours ago, JohnfromUK said:

I have seen some (photos of) restorations done by USA 'collectors'.  They look absolutely awful, the worst part being that they try and redo the case hardening colours - which looks terrible.  Even more amazing is how pleased they are with themselves about how they have 'saved' an old gun.  They also often seem to lengthen the chambers, and frequently don't re-proof, so the gun is in effect unsaleable in many markets.

Another fault is that they carve the gunstock with birds etc or pin brass inlays in them , I have seen this done with many English guns. . 

Feltwad

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2 hours ago, Esca said:

I am very pleased with it. I cannot claim any credit for the work as it was carried out by a chap I know who enjoys working with wood. When I gave it to him it was dented and scratched. He asked what sort of chequer I would like, flat or raised. I decided on the non original raised, I find it easier to get a grip. I also decided to get a kickeze fitted which has transform the shooting of this gun as it feel far more stable in the shoulder. While he was busy with that I sent the action and barrel of to get serviced. Very happy with it now people who had seen it pre refer thought it was a different gun. Just to check all was good I got straight out for a quick walk around the woods on my perm 6 shots 3 pigeon=big 😁 

Is yours a Midland as well?

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15 minutes ago, Sereremo said:

Hello, I’m new in this forum and it is my first post.   .....    Here my first hunting license shotgun.

Welcome to PW.  

That looks like  a high-class gun.   Is it by any chance a Beretta sidelock?   If so, I am very envious.   It would be nice to see a close-up of the engraving.  

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Thanks to all for the comments...no it’s not a Beretta S&S, it was my grandfather shotgun dated 1950 and produced by an small Artisan Ghidini Bruno (that worked till to II WW at S.A Luigi Franchi).

anyway, in my opinion, Beretta has not produced nice S&S but only good O&U.

regards

Edited by Sereremo
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48 minutes ago, Sereremo said:

Thanks to all for the comments...no it’s not a Beretta S&S, it was my grandfather shotgun dated 1950 and produced by an small Artisan Ghidini Bruno (that worked till to II WW at S.A Luigi Franchi).

anyway, in my opinion, Beretta has not produced nice S&S but only good O&U.

regards

I think you are correct.. Who cares who made yours, it's beautiful.

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13 hours ago, Sereremo said:

Hello, I’m new in this forum and it is my first post.

I’m a fan of S&S shotguns and I’m looking some information referring to WR hand detachable lock.

Sorry for my grammatical mistakes but I write from Italy.

Here my first hunting license shotgun.

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Welcome . There a a number of books that will give the history of Westly Richards  .  A quick look at the internet , type Westly Richards Drop Lock into Google will bring a lot a of information up . There is a dispute as to its correct name . The British call it a "hand detachable lock "  , it is the Americans who call it a "drop lock ".

 

Hope you find what you are looking for .

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Westley Richards is in Birmingam so...hand detachable lock.

I’m looking for some info referring to the sign on the barrel and the single trigger Patent...

in particular I would like to know the length of the chamber and some info to the H.L. Steel..

Sorry but images are taken with pone camera.

Thanks

 

 

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Edited by Sereremo
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23 minutes ago, Sereremo said:

I would like to know the length of the chamber and some info to the H.L. Steel.

You would need to have the chambers measured, but normally if there is proof for 1 1/4 oz (the maximum shot load), it would be 2 3/4" (70mm) - but it is easy for a gunsmith to check that.

I believe the reference to steel is relating to the type of steel the barrels are made from NOT the suitability for steel shot ....... which would carry a 'fleur de lis" mark.  I think I am right in saying that those types of proof marks predate the introduction of steel proof marks anyway.

My advice anyway would be to see a gun smith because you need to be certain that the gun is in proof, and that requires measurement.  Since your gun was proofed as a '12', (0.729 of an inch) that means that in order to be in proof, it must not have been enlarged beyond 0.738 of an inch.  These are the internal bore diameters 9 inches forward from the breech.  But proof is more than just the internal diameter, and a gun smith will advise on any other issues.  Whilst you are having that done, ask the gun smith to measure the chokes, so that you know what they are, and I would also get the wall thickness measured.  Thin walls do not necessarily mean proof failure, but are more easily dented and may be difficult to get any dents removed.

All of the above is good information to have about your gun.

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Ok..first of all thank you Mr. John!

The great information is that 1 1/4 oz. was tha max load and probably 70mm. Normally is written but probably not at the beginning of the century.

I have all the tools to measure barrel but not chambers..so I ask in the forum about it.

Due to the serial number it seems been produced between 1900 and 1905 so surely it’s no possibile to shot steel cartridge but, in my books is written that 12 has a diameter.738 in. while those barrel are .742 in. and at 23 cm from the choke the wall is .650 mm....so Eley cartridge 12/67mm could be a good trial.

Chokes now are 10/10 and 11/10 of millimeters 

Regards

 

Edited by Sereremo
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